Beware, take care, Komata's 'Blog has re-emerged - with Cliff-hangers in attendance. (You have been warned!!)
First construct a 2 ft 6 inch x 2ft 6 inch wooden framework, using 3/4 in x 1 in timber and attach a sheet of 3-ply to the same dimensions to its underside.
Then, at a point approximately half-way down each side, insert an 11 inch-tall 3-ply Divider, curving it so that it 'bends' in the middle towards the back of the square - add triangular 3-ply bracing at each end of the Divider, (behind it, facing towards the back of the square) and glue everything in place.
Next, fill in the space in front and behind the Divider with softboard, ensuring that the softboard is flush with the top of the timber-frame surround.
So what have you now got?
A square within a square with a curved bit of plywood across its centre!
But how do you use it, and what do you put on it?
Next, draw a circle - ensuring that the outer edge of the circle remains 1 inch in from the sides and 1/2 an inch in from the ends, and, at the front mid-point of the circle (the bit 1/2 an inch in from the front of the square, draw a curved line to the left, curving it so that at its end it is about 4 inches down from the front of the layout and a 1/4 inch in from the sides.
Drawer this circle and line onto the inner square (even through the 'Divider')! It's difficult, but it can be done)
Cut a hole measuring approximately 2 inches by 2 inches in the part of the scenic divider where the circle would go through. (the bracing will support the Divider, so it won't fall down)
So, what have you now got?
What you are looking at is the basis for a small, very portable, MR layout baseboard, the baseboard which I used as a basis for Six-Mile Bush, the layout I've built as a 'proof-of-concept' attempt to see if NZN-Freelance (N-scale, New Zealand-type trains in a New Zealand setting), could be made to be transportable..
The circle represents the outer edge of a circle of N-scale flexitrack, while the 'Line to the left' is a siding (spur) leading to a very small goods yard.
But, what comes next?
Sadly, for that folks (all my Dear Reader's) you will have to wait - until another time.
Meanwhile, as the 'Blog shuffles off to its lair. .
Happy modelling
Komata
"TVR - serving the Northern Taranaki . . . "
Ah, I must admit that I
Ah, I must admit that I wondering what had happened to "Komata's Blog"!
Certainly one of the more readable and enthralling blogs we have!
I am interested in seeing this small RR develops.
In the mean time, pray tell, what happened to the presentation you were gong to be making? Has it come and gone or is it still upcoming? If the former how did it go? Please let us know! Oh yes, was it videoed?
Six-Mile Bush - a Portable N-scale layout
BryanC
Yes, the 'Blog has re-emerged. . .(beware etc)
The presentation is still to be made - Easter 2008, so I will keep you all advised as to how it goes.
And, as I'm here, I'll continue with the 'Blog (wakey wakey 'Blog. . . )
So, to continue. . .
A sheet of 1/4-inch cork was cut to fit a curved section bounded on one side by the outer edge of the softboard and, on the inner edge, a point 1 inch inside the curve (for reasons which will become evident in due course).
A strip of the same cork was then laid on the INSIDE of the circle behind the Divider.
The cork was glued (PVA) and pinned.
And for what purpose I hear you ask?
All will be revealed. . .don't be impatient
Re-draw the previously-drawn circle and curve-to-the left over the cork at the front of the layout, and when that is done, locate and pin a right-Hand N-scale Peco Insulfrog Medium-radii point so that the outer edge of the point is against the outer end of the circle - the 'straight' section of the point will be parallel with the front of the cork/softboard, and should align up with the curved section away to the left towards the 'yard'
NB: DON"Tuse Peco 'Electrofrog' points for this layout - 'Electrofrog' points cause a 'short' in this situation and are totally unsuited for this application
Cut and lay a curved section of track around to the left, following the previously-drawn curve to the goods yard.
From the end of the RH part of the point, lay and pin flexitrack all along the cork strip at the back of the divider - through the holes you had previously cu in the divider and so-on right-the way round, until you wind up at the back of the point (its 'heel' if you like).
The outer edge of the circle should correspond to the outer edge of the flexitrack sleepers (ties)!
So, now you see the reason for the circle (I hope)!
NB: I found that it is best to use as few flexitrack lengths as possible - joining them on a very acute curve can be troublesome and you need to have as few rail-joiners as you can!
If you have followed me to this point, you should ideally have a circle of track with a siding off to the left, at the front of the layout, and an open space at the back of the Divider.
There should also be two 'tunnels' - one on each end of the Divider.
And, most importantly, the track on the front-side should be raised above the softboard - not by much, but raised anyway.
The electrical connections can now be soldered-in, over the back - out of sight, behind the Divider. I used two short lengths of rail, bent, and soldered to the appropriate rail, but you, Dear Reader,(and ByanC) can use whatever you choose.
And for what purpose after all of the above?
What can one do with a simple circle of track and one (1) point?
Well, Dear Reader, (and BryanC - of course)the use you make of what you have created is, of course, up to you.
I know what I did with this interesting little assemblage', and, at some other time, will regale you with what happened.
But, because, the cliffs need hanging, the 'Blog will now retire. Thank you for reading.
Happy modelling. .
Komata
"TVR - serving the Northern Taranaki . . ."
Quote:NB: I found that it
Flextrack joints on curves; are best achieved by making the joint (soldering the pieces together) first when the pieces are still straight, then laying them to the curve (working from the center out), and cutting the rails square to join (a few inches into) the neighbouring straight at both ends... this way all the joints are made on straights and you don't have to deal with alignment kinks.
Six-Mile Bush - a portable N-scale Layout
Sadly folks, I've stuffed-up
- and have re-posted this 'blog entry as 'Six-mile Bush, a portable N-scale layout (The Hills AREN'T alive') - could you go there please. .
I couldn't remove this entry, so after taking the 'blog entry for today elsewhere, have left this message instead. Thanks for your tolerance - I'm sorry
Komata
"TVR - serving the Northern Taranaki . . . "
[Admin note: Link inserted]