• Detailing a N Scale Kato CP GE AC4400CW

    After getting some inspiration from seanm's thread "Detailing diesel loco's", a few other posts on this and other forums and a few videos I thought I would give this a try.

    Prototype CP 9524

    I took apart an E-Bay bought Kato CP AC4400CW locomotive Nr. 9524 (that did not come as described).
    Thought I would use this one in case things go horribly wrong.
    Please don't ask me how I got the cab off the body, I still don't know.

    Attachment 22266

    Next I cut out the drilling jig that comes with the BLMA #95 set "Modern GE Wide Cab Diesel Grab Iron Assortment".
    Don't forget to file the tabs that held the jig or you might scratch things up big time.
    Using a bit of clear tape I positioned the jig by sliding it back against the cab and taped it down.
    Using a #80 drill bit and pin vice I carefully drilled the holes.
    While I was at it I also drilled the holes for the roof grab iron (free handed it).

    Attachment 22267

    Here is a close up of the progress so far:

    Attachment 22268

    That's it for now.
    This article was originally published in forum thread: Detailing A Kato CP GE AC4400CW started by DrifterNL View original post
    Comments 18 Comments
    1. musicman's Avatar
      musicman -
      Well done! That looks great.
    1. ScottL's Avatar
      ScottL -
      I've never done it, but I think shaving off the molded grabs will be worth it with with the metal ones you are adding. Careful touchup with a fine brush and some light weathering to blend and it will look super.
    1. hobo's Avatar
      hobo -
      looking good Drifter keep up those pics
    1. DrifterNL's Avatar
      DrifterNL -
      Decided to do a little more work on the cab.
      This time sinclair antennas and rear wipers.

      For the rear wipers I measured out the middle of the window just above the molded window seals and drilled the holes.
      I used the BLMA #96 Windshield Wipers (TALL version).

      The sinclair antennas were a bit tricky because all I had to go on was pictures I could find on the web.
      After finding these 2 pictures (can take some time to load) -> HERE and HERE I had a pretty good idea where to place them.
      The sinclair antennas I used are the long version from sschaer -> http://www.cp-forum.net/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=383
      Using a piece of masking tape I went from one side of the cab (middle of window) to the other side (middle of window) and used this as my reference point.
      Laying the antenna flat and touching the edge of the tape (that runs over the middle of the side windows) I used the height of the antenna (not including the mounting pin) to determine how far inward on the roof to place it, marked the spot and drilled.
      I did the same for the other side.
      The molded on antenna seemed to be in the correct place so I used that position for the inner antenna.

      Cab with tape and antenna:
      Attachment 22281

      Cab with wipers and sinclair antennas (compare to this):
      Attachment 22282

      Cab side showing sinclair antenna (compare to this):
      Attachment 22283

      That's it for now....
    1. Michael Whiteman's Avatar
      Michael Whiteman -
      Very nice upgrade Drifter.
    1. DrifterNL's Avatar
      DrifterNL -
      I'm dumbfounded right now!
      After doing a little research it looks like the hood on the Kato CP AC4400CW represents a post 2000's built loco.
      The Kato cab with attached panels behind represents a 90's built loco.
      And to my astonishment I found pictures of CP AC4400CW with duo rear lights! -> http://www.cprdieselroster.com/Roste.../CP 9802-1.jpg

      So if I want to build a correct model I would need to combine the Kato CP AC4400CW hood with the Kato CP ES44AC cab and steerable trucks.
    1. cliffboyd's Avatar
      cliffboyd -
      Sure would like to know how to get the body off one of these.
    1. DrifterNL's Avatar
      DrifterNL -
      Welcome to Nscale.net cliffboyd!

      Quote Originally Posted by cliffboyd View Post
      Sure would like to know how to get the body off one of these.
      Taking the shell off the chassis (near the bottom of page) -> http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/kato44.html
      Taking the cab off the hood -> http://usloki.tripod.com/AC4400disassemble.htm
    1. BryanC (RIP)'s Avatar
      BryanC (RIP) -
      Here's another "how to" (body shell removal) http://www.fiferhobby.com/html/n_sca...l_removal.html
    1. DrifterNL's Avatar
      DrifterNL -
      Decided to get back at it even though the Kato AC4400CW is a bit of a foob -> http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...ersion-Details
      Using an surgical blade I shaved off all the molded on grab irons and lift rings.
      I also shaved off the cut levers, corrected the pilots, bent the BLMA GE cut levers and drilled the holes in the pilots for them.
      Holes have also now been drilled in the hood for the lift rings and remaining grab irons.

      For the hood I used 2 x 18" drop bottom grabs (behind the cab), 1 x straight 15" grab (behind the dynamic brake vents) and 1 x 18" straight grab (angled).
      I looked up the position of the bottom 18" grab behind the cab and drilled the right hole, then using a broken drill bit I positioned the BLMA drilling jig, lined it up straight, taped it down and drilled the remaining holes.
      For the other grab irons I used the molded on grabs as reference for size and position and after shaving them off I drilled the holes.

      Hood (left side) with lift rings and grab irons test fitted :
      Attachment 23881

      That's it for now...
    1. DrifterNL's Avatar
      DrifterNL -
      The cut levers are mounted using small hooks.
      I tried using the supplied drilling jig to drill the holes for the hooks but ended up using the molded on detail as a reference for the holes, there was just no way (because the pilot is not flat) to use the jig.
      After shaving off the molded cut levers I corrected the pilots by cutting off the top left and right ends to match photos I looked up, the Kato pilot, using a bright light, does have this detail molded in and it is just a question of slowly following the line.
      After that I glued in the hooks with the open side down using gap filling medium ca.
      Then I went and bent the etched cut levers, still needs a little tweaking but I'm close.

      Corrected Front pilot with hooks glued in and cut levers test fitted (BLMA #14 Modern GE Locomotive Cut Levers):
      Attachment 23902

      That's it for now, what do you guys think?
    1. TwinDad's Avatar
      TwinDad -
      Having just attempted this myself I can say with authority... Looks great!
    1. Roanoke_NS6123's Avatar
      Roanoke_NS6123 -
      Looking Good!
    1. DrifterNL's Avatar
      DrifterNL -
      After PMing a fellow forum member for some advice I decided to slowly get back to this project.
      To strip the paint I soaked the cab and vents in 96% alcohol for about 4 days and proceeded to scrub off the paint using a soft toothbrush, micro brush and toothpick.
      Even after a 4 day soak it was a lot of hard work, that Kato paint is really tough.
      After scrubbing I noticed that the cab had lost some of the rivet detailing around the side windows and the vent also lost a rivet, I guess I was too heavy handed.
      I think I will keep the hood as is....

      Stripped Cab and Vents:
      Attachment 43981

      Lessons learned this time around:
      I will never ever try to strip a Kato shell ever again.
      Must be more careful when scrubbing so not to loose detailing.
    1. jpwisc's Avatar
      jpwisc -
      Any updates on this build?
    1. nscaler711's Avatar
      nscaler711 -
      Want updates Drifter!
    1. DrifterNL's Avatar
      DrifterNL -
      Quote Originally Posted by jpwisc View Post
      Any updates on this build?
      Quote Originally Posted by nscaler711 View Post
      Want updates Drifter!
      Not much to update:

      Attachment 54952
    1. jpwisc's Avatar
      jpwisc -
      I've been there. I have 3 C44-9Ws, 2 SD40-2s, 1 SD40-2W, 1 SD38-2, 1 GP38, 1 SD38, an RDC and a CF7 that are all in various states of non-completion. It does feel good to go back and get them done, even if there is a long hiatus in between. Man, I really need to get them done...