• Recent Posts

    Jimmi

    Weekend Update (27th Sep 2014)

    Spent the weekend continuing work on correcting several mistakes I made by following my "We don need no steeking track plan!" method of construction.

    Jimmi Yesterday, 10:58 PM Go to last post
    zosimas

    Weekend Update (27th Sep 2014)

    Got track laid, glued, partially painted (glue paint mixture under the track) and wires drilled through.

    zosimas Yesterday, 07:30 PM Go to last post
    Realwally

    What do you do when you are bored?

    If it had been a brown snake, I might have been in a bit of strife. Browns are far more aggressive, especially at this time of year in Australia. Reds

    Realwally Yesterday, 06:49 PM Go to last post
    danielb

    Weekend Update (27th Sep 2014)

    I got confirmation back last week that Cane River has been booked to be exhibited at the NMRA Calder Northern exhibition at Crewe Heritage Centre (home

    danielb Yesterday, 06:43 PM Go to last post
    mmahoag

    Weekend Update (27th Sep 2014)

    Got a start on a project I've been putting off because I hate to cut into my main line track. Finally cut the main, put in a siding switch, track, and

    mmahoag Yesterday, 12:15 PM Go to last post
  • Installation of FRED/EOT.

    I had this EOT that I got from the internet a while back but I never got around to installing it cause I couldn't decide which freight car would be a good donor. Well I got the courage up and I sacrificed a U.P. Life Like 50' boxcar for my project. I took the boxcar apart then I drilled a small hole on the break wheel end of the boxcar. I put the flashing LED thru the hole and super glued it in place so it would not move. I got the cheaper EOT with the battery operated function not the more expensive DCC one. But I'm ok with this. I also made some holes on the bottom of the boxcar so I can install the on/off switch the switch is a little bigger but I guess it will do. I made sure that everything works and it did. Here is a link to check it out in action.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVwREIV4M-s
    This article was originally published in forum thread: Installation of FRED/EOT. started by Nbuilder View original post
    Comments 30 Comments
    1. seanm's Avatar
      seanm -
      Nice! I like the video. Your train would look right at home on my layout. What sort of battery did you use and how long do you think will it blink the FRED before it needs to be replaced?
    1. Nbuilder's Avatar
      Nbuilder -
      The battery is a very small (about the size of a small finger nail) Sony Alkaline battery that came with the kit and its good for about 30-40hrs since the LED draws very minimal current. You can also get a DCC version but its about $50 compared to about $15 including shipping for the kit I got.
    1. oval4ever's Avatar
      oval4ever -
      where can i find one of these, I likeit, and BTW gret job on the step by step how to. I wonder what voltage that battery has? I guy could go step farther with a suitable, nicad or ninmh cell and a 1/8" phone jack installed in the floor like the switch. then when it won't lite just plug it in for 30 mins to a hr. and off you go.
      thanks again.
    1. oval4ever's Avatar
      oval4ever -
      Seanm I was looking this over closely and figured on a different approach. you can find 3MM red blinking LED's on ebay for cheap, (30 for under $7.00) then all you need to do is either for DC use the appropriate resitor to drop the voltage down, or for DCC, use a bridge retifier along with the resitor or a small deoder that you could get for cheep and just use the light circuit, of corse you need to add pickups to the trucks but that is a given. ohh the blink rate is about 1 sec on 1 sec off..normally for 12 volts a 670 ohm, or there about resitor works well.
    1. TwinDad's Avatar
      TwinDad -
      Quote Originally Posted by oval4ever View Post
      Seanm I was looking this over closely and figured on a different approach. you can find 3MM red blinking LED's on ebay for cheap, (30 for under $7.00) then all you need to do is either for DC use the appropriate resitor to drop the voltage down, or for DCC, use a bridge retifier along with the resitor or a small deoder that you could get for cheep and just use the light circuit, of corse you need to add pickups to the trucks but that is a given. ohh the blink rate is about 1 sec on 1 sec off..normally for 12 volts a 670 ohm, or there about resitor works well.
      LOL. I saw an HO version that is built into a caboose truck. To install, you just replace the truck on the back of the caboose. I played around with a PCB layout for an N scale version, but I didn't quite have enough space to cram in all the componentry. Part of the problem was adding the circuit to make it blink. It didn't occur to me to use a blinking LED.

      Maybe I'll go back and revisit the challenge... thanks!
    1. quietstorm's Avatar
      quietstorm -
      looks like the same one I have in one of my ns coal hoppers. its from Gatrworks. I love mine.
    1. seanm's Avatar
      seanm -
      I wonder if you could use fiber optics with this.. Mount the flashing led in the car, route the fiber out, paint if black except for the end and paint that yellow and then sand off some of the paint on one side to let the light out.... Would make for a very small install.
    1. oval4ever's Avatar
      oval4ever -
      HMM fiber optics is interesting, I have 0 evperience with it, but I understand what your saying.....HMMM, the wheels are turning....the flashing red LEDS I found were 3mm, so I was thinking of useing the flashing LED as just that a flasher, and wire it in series with a smaller 1.8 mm red LED but the optics Idea I think would but much simpler. I THINK all you would have to do is take the optic cord and shrink wrap the LED tight against one end and stick the other in the hole. ..but I am assuming quite a bit here.
    1. oval4ever's Avatar
      oval4ever -
      Quote Originally Posted by seanm View Post
      I wonder if you could use fiber optics with this.. Mount the flashing led in the car, route the fiber out, paint if black except for the end and paint that yellow and then sand off some of the paint on one side to let the light out.... Would make for a very small install.
      seanm I wish I knew how to do the photo and vidioe thing..your idea worked GREAT! I used somefiber optic I got off ebay, (40 ft for $5) the red flashing LED's I used 2 awg solid wire wrapped arround steel wheel axles for power and then, to finnish it up I got a constant lightighting retifier board from streamlined backshops, (DCC installer) not sure what the tny board costs, but it is AWESOME..i corrects DC, DCC and PWM in straight DC polarity, through a rectifier, as long as there is track power you have fixed polarity power in your car.....very small, even with the hughe anti-flicker cap mounted on the board it is smaller than the last joint of your pinky finger by nearly half.... i am waiting on a price for the retifier board from Bryan, he GAVE this first one to me for my experiment....I want to get another so I can fit it into a small project box as an adaptor for my DVOM so I can measure voltage on my PWM or a DCC system to find bad spots in the track, I figure mount it inside a tiny box with it's own set of test leads, and a pair of bananna jacks/binding post on the side to connect the leads of the DVOM to.......
    1. ike8120's Avatar
      ike8120 -
      I have done a few of these. Instead of cutting a hole for a switch. I started to use magnetic latching reed switches. I hot glue it in to the box car. A simple pass of a magnet it is turned on or off. Works great. Also I am using 1.8mm flashing leds, this way I did away with the circuits. I mount from the inside with some crazy glue and fill the outside whole with Ruby Red Gallery Glass. This gives it the appearance of a lens.

      Here is a simple video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrtGSD0mb6c
    1. ChicagoNW's Avatar
      ChicagoNW -
      Quote Originally Posted by seanm View Post
      I wonder if you could use fiber optics with this.. Mount the flashing led in the car, route the fiber out, paint if black except for the end and paint that yellow and then sand off some of the paint on one side to let the light out.... Would make for a very small install.
      The Kato Material Handling cars are perfect for this installation. I did this several years ago with a standard red LED. The cars come equipped with contacts built into the trucks. The cars have an EOT housing built into each end. I just drilled out the lens for the fiber that I mushroomed for a lens. A touch of white glue holds it fast. The other end of the fiber is glued to a hole drilled into the plastic of the LED.
    1. webskipper's Avatar
      webskipper -
      What size LEDs is best for coupler mounted EOTs and how did you mount them?
    1. MetroRedLn's Avatar
      MetroRedLn -
      Aren't FREDs supposed to be mounted on the coupler?

      How many of us modern-era modelers actually model FREDs on our trains? Or do we just make do with nothing on the end? Just wanna know what most of us do.
    1. Spuds's Avatar
      Spuds -
      I always run a feed, either my 1 good boxcsr, or one of 3 soso units from different source. people at shows love em! it also is VERY helpfull in seeing eot from a distance.
    1. Todd Enlund's Avatar
      Todd Enlund -
      When it was discontinued, I tracked down as many LM3909 LED flashing ICs as I could find. I use a mercury switch positioned so that the light works when the car is placed upright, but turns off when the car is on it's side in the box.
    1. MetroRedLn's Avatar
      MetroRedLn -
      Most FREDs I see on the back of trains don't even light up/flash. Is that only because it's daytime? Does anyone make a "dummy" FRED that can be attached to a coupler somehow?
    1. TwinDad's Avatar
      TwinDad -
      Quote Originally Posted by MetroRedLn View Post
      Most FREDs I see on the back of trains don't even light up/flash. Is that only because it's daytime? Does anyone make a "dummy" FRED that can be attached to a coupler somehow?
      I don't think the flasher runs in the daytime.
    1. webskipper's Avatar
      webskipper -
      I belive that's 49 CFR 232.613 - End-of-train devices GCOR

      They are illuminated just before sunset to just after sunrise just as your automobile headlamps are.
    1. Antonio_NET's Avatar
      Antonio_NET -
      Quote Originally Posted by MetroRedLn View Post
      Aren't FREDs supposed to be mounted on the coupler?
      How many of us modern-era modelers actually model FREDs on our trains? Or do we just make do with nothing on the end? Just wanna know what most of us do.
      It depends on what the modeler like.
      For example, I have a rule, if the decoder has 6 FX3 Finction Outputs they must all be use for the light effect.
      In N scale I'm a newbie, but in HO I used 4 FX3 from Digitrax for caboose.
      I think that in N I did not repeat it, but I'll think of something the same.
    1. 24zer0's Avatar
      24zer0 -
      Well considering freds dont flash in daylight Ill just contiue running with nothing