WARNING: total Noob installing a dcc decoder!

wlystlz
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Posts: 5
Joined: 2008-10-13
Average: 5 (2 votes)

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Sacramento, CA, 95833
United States
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well, consider this an informal "hello" to you guys, I am fresh to the site, and already i would like to show my ...interesting... install of a dcc decoder in a bachmann GP40 diesel. since this locomotive has the "fishing weight" frame (lovingly described by my local train shop owner) i decided to install a dz125 decoder by digitrax, which seems to work fine! here are some progress pix:

before the brutal violation

marking locations to trim...

its gotta fit now...

ok heres a word of advice:  If you are going to solder dont do it with shaky hands and a normal radio shack soldering iron. also recommend NOT using larger heatshrink to just substitute.

ready to rock! works fine, except now I wish i would have soldered the feed wires directly to the "wipers"  instead of to top of the weights. I will fix this as well as grind away just a LITTLE more material from the top of the weights to allow the shell to fit on a little nicer.  next I am putting the DZ125 in a bachmann 4-4-0 locomotive, and i WILL post pix (as long as you guys dont mind a noob hackin up jippo bachmann locos... =) till later!!!




taz-n-rr
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Looks great!  I have seen
Looks great!  I have seen other mods of the 4-4-0 on the web, it will be cool to see how it comes out.
Charles


fifer
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Will , WELCOME !!!  No one

Will , WELCOME !!!  No one would know you were a noob. That install is just fine and most do no even want to do it at all . (like me)

Looks fabulous!

Mike


--

"Mind your own business , and you won't be minding mine" HANK WILLIAMS

Mike & Robin at www.fiferhobby.com




Bryan
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Welcome to the

Welcome to the group...

That's a great job for a first up attempt.

As a tip for future installs, look for "thin wall" shrink tube... it's only about half the thickness, and should make getting shell clearance easier.


--

Bryan




wlystlz
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Posts: 5
Joined: 2008-10-13
sweet! thanks, I ended up

sweet! thanks, I ended up getting TCS no. 1006 for the 4-4-0 today. i will post prob in this forum once I get it started. and thanks for the thin wall tip- I didnt even think to look for that last time i went to fry's (electronics). youll hear from me soon!

 

Will




wlystlz
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Posts: 5
Joined: 2008-10-13
UPDATE: bachmann 4-4-0 progress

well, the 4-4-0 was slightly more challenging, since one of my feeder wires (red) came undone after i put it together. BUT- it works, and I was successful in drilling a 1/16" hole from the cab of the locomotive(thru the weight) through the top of the boiler, and down just in the right spot to avoid ripping to shreds the blue and white wires for the forward light. the pictures I did not take are the ones of me soldering the 680 ohm resistor in series with the white wire, or cutting the weight down so the resistor could fit under the shell with no problems. I will go back to the GeeP soon, because that bugger likes to "forget" where the poer gets picked up from. One lst thing: does anyone have a favorite supplier for the thin wall heat shrink tubing? I could not find any here in sac. thanks guys!

 




Jimmi
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Just Googled "thin wall
Just Googled "thin wall heat shrink" and got 1,550,000 hits.
--

The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that, you've got it made.    Jean Giraudoux

Jim




taz-n-rr
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Wlystlz, Did you follow
Wlystlz,
 
Did you follow any particular existing example of the install, or develop your own?  Looks nice, maybe you can provide a little more detail about the light and such...
 
Thanks,
Charles


wlystlz
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Posts: 5
Joined: 2008-10-13
I just tried and prevailed!

I just tried and prevailed! lol. I saw another example of the 4-4-0 on a site, but I did not want to follow his since he scratchbuilt the light housing and part of the boiler. I need to take it back apart to oil it, but heres a list of things I did:

1) took the entire tender apart, and drilled a 1/16" hole through the front weight in the tender. this is where I ran the forward light wires through.

2) I cut the feeder strips down to about 1/8" and soldered the red and black wires to these tiny tabs

I then soldered the orange and grey wires to the correct terminals on the motor. I also taped them to keep any shorts from happening.

the moor sits nicely back into the tender, and the decoder itself will be glued to the top of the tender/motor, with logs piled on top of it.

now with the weight back in, I drilled the hole going into the rear weight of the locomotive. this is where my camera died, so I couldnt take pictures of the exact locations of the holes being drilled.

the wire went through the plastic top of the boiler, and also thru the brass bell. this was veeeeery stressful, since the 1/16" drillbit was dangerously close to the forward angle of the boiler. from the front of the gear there was barely enough room to drill a 30 degree angle to match this hole. the top of the front weight was trimmed by 3/16" to allow room for my resistor and monstrous heatshrink. lol. the holes for the light were simple:

1) hole was drilled from under the lamp housing with the front of the boiler removed. to drill this hole I had to drill a small hole thru the front platform first, but can be painted later.

2) hole drilled into the lamp housing for the lamp itself. i used an x-acto knife to shave away plastic to make the hole look more "centered".

3) a 45 deg. angled hole was drilled for the lamp to run right into the housing. all that needed to be done was to glue the lamp in place, and put the front of the boiler back together. the front of the boiler is almost like a cap, and a small part had to be shaved away to make room for the wires.

Like i said before, I am sorry that my camera failed but i tried to take some pictures of the end result. here is a pic of where i drilled the holes for reference, with arrows showing which direction they were drilled. the yellow box is where the top of the weight was modified for resisto and wire clearance:

next time I will make sure my camers WORKS before and during the next decoder install I do. hope you enjoy! please ask any questions, I love answering them!

one last note: the light buld I used was a miniatronics corp. no. 18-001-10 bulb. it is a 1.5V 15 mA 1.2mm dia. bulb, and it fit PERFECTLY! the resistor was higher in resistance for a dimmer bulb.




taz-n-rr
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Posts: 440
Joined: 2006-04-28
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Wlystlz, Thanks!  The

Wlystlz,
 
Thanks!  The discussion and additional pictures are really great!  I have safely tucked this away in my model trains directories.  Did you drill the angled wire hole in the tapered part of the boiler from underneath the boiler or something?
 
Thanks again for posting,
Charles




wlystlz
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Posts: 5
Joined: 2008-10-13
yes I did actually, it was
yes I did actually, it was as close to the taper of the moiler as i could get. and it JUST BARELY clears the screw gear.


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