Airbrush Eraser advice?

joelaz
joelaz's picture
Posts: 3
Joined: 2007-10-11
No votes yet

I have a variety of engine shells, mostly Kato, and some cars I would like to strip and don't want to fool with the various chemicals out there. My concern is that Kato shells seem to be sensitive to chemicals, and while Chameleon is supposed to be safe and effective, I have read mixed reviews of the product.

I will invest in an airbrush eraser, but am looking for opinions about the Paasche eraser and the Badger abrasive eraser. What do you use and recommend?




BryanC
BryanC's picture
Posts: 1395
Joined: 2005-01-26
nScale.net Forum ModeratornScale.net Site Supporter
Hi joelaz and welcome to

Hi joelaz and welcome to nScale.net! I am sure you will find the answers you are looking for!

If I may, I'd like to offer a suggestion. Why don't you edit the title of your post and add a question mark at the end? As it is, it appears that you are offering advice, NOT asking for it! This will impact the people who read it and who pass it by.

I think you'll get more and better responses if you do!


--

Cheers!

Bryan C
Alligator Lines "The Eclectic Line of the South"

http://ALines.home.att.net




joelaz
joelaz's picture
Posts: 3
Joined: 2007-10-11
Airbrush Eraser advice?
You're right, Done!


ScottL
ScottL's picture
Posts: 169
Joined: 2006-10-12
nScale.net Site Supporter
Have not been on for

Have not been on for awhile, but here are some thoughts based on some experiences I've had.

 I have found that 100% isopropyl achohol (weaker stuff won't work) will strip many model paints, including some factory applied jobs.  It is available at drug stores, inexpensive, reusable and relatively safe (but I would use ventilation).  I have not had it do any damage to plastic, but I have not tried it on Kato shells.  Soak the shell for an hour in a sealed container of the alcohol, and then gently scrub the loosened paint off with an old toothbrush.  Use a coffee filter to remove paint flakes to reuse the alcohol. 

It goes without saying, this is NOT the type of alcohol you drink!!!

 I don't know what these erasers your are describing are, but I worry that an abrasive will damage the shells.  It does not take much to remove fine detail.

Cheers,

Scott




MRLdave
MRLdave's picture
Posts: 234
Joined: 2007-04-30
I assume you are looking to
I assume you are looking to repaint, and if that's the case, you can be selective about stripping. Unless you are putting a light color over a dark color, I've had good luck simply using the original paint as the primer. Exceptions to that would be if the original paint is very heavy to start with, in which case you lose too much detail, and the already mentioned light over dark. What you DO need to do is remove the lettering/logos from your subjects....for that, the alcohol that Scott suggests is a good choice, although I've had good luck with 90% as well as the 100%. I also don't allow any long soak times....I brush it on, let it set for a few minutes, then use cotton swabs to wipe the lettering till it disappears. Sometimes I'll use a toothbrush to gently scrub also. I've found this method gives me better results than trying to get all the paint out of every nook and cranny. You can't paint bare plastic anyway, so why waste your time trying to get there just so you can cover it with primer. Scotts method DOES work to strip an engine/car to bare plastic......I just haven't found that the extra work gives any better results most of the time.


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