Street run

usamaibnmunqidh
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No votes yet

Hi,

I'm going to move house (not really the house but I'll go up 2 levels :) ) and finally I will have some space for a little layout. I don't know if I told You, I'm interested in more types of scenery so I decided I will make modules. I would like to start with a street run module. I don't have any specific ideas about it yet, and thats why I need Your help. I watched pics about Jack London Square in Oakland, CA and I like that very much, I think I will try to create something like that.

Please post as much information and pictures as You can about street run, because I'd like to start collecting information, and also buying some things for this module soon. This will be a slow process I'm sure but I have to start sometime:)

So please flood me with information and pics and also with Your opinion about the 'module idea'. Oh by the way does anyone make buildings like those on Jack London Square? (http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?location=Jack%20London%20Square) I didn't find so huge ones yet. Will I have to scratchbuild them or something like them?:)

I hope You can understand my poor English, and Thanks for the help!


--

Greetings from Budapest,

Levente




usamaibnmunqidh
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I didn't want to create a

I didn't want to create a new topic for this:

How can I make 'concrete' between the tracks instead of roadbed? Just like at Jack London Square...

Thanks!


--

Greetings from Budapest,

Levente




FergusonTE
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Plaster?

You can try using plaster for between the rails. It should work very well if you also mix it with some gray colour. You can carve out the flange space after the plaster is dried. I had this on a module I one had and it worked very well.

By the way, your English is as good as any I've seen on this forum!

-mike




BryanC
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Use of Plaster for Grade Crossings
FergusonTE wrote:
... By the way, your English is as good as any I've seen on this forum!
I'll second that and add that while it as good as any, it is also better than than a lot!

So far as the concrete filler goes, as FergusonTE says, plaster should do the trick and while I've not tried it I have to wonder if it would not be possible to place some sort of divider against the inside of the rails to help create the flange clearance?

The problem might be in the removing of it but if you wait till the plaster is almost dry and then pry it out there should be a minimum amount of damage (I'm guessing) which could be easily carved and touched up for finishing. Maybe some sort of "edging" would be in order anyway? Maybe an old piece of rail?

From what I have read, use an old truck to check the clearance and you should be OK!


--

Cheers!

Bryan C
Alligator Lines "The Eclectic Line of the South"

http://ALines.home.att.net




usamaibnmunqidh
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Posts: 20
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Thank You very much, both!

Thank You very much, both!

I have two solutions in mind:

  1. The one You suggested: plaster and carving
  2. An other solution is to glue cardboard or styrene on the ties.

I don't know which would be easier or more prototypical (don't forget, I'm a total beginner in this hobby!!! You can ask yourself, 'then why did You choose street run, tenderfoot?' :) ) but I prefer the plaster more, since I can't mess up the whole thing so easily by bad measurements.

Mike, what kind of paint should I mix to the plaster and when? I'm sure I have to mix the paint in it when I have already added the water...


--

Greetings from Budapest,

Levente




pcarrell
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A lot of those buildings

A lot of those buildings could be built from DPM (Design Preservation Models) kits.  They're modular, so kitbashing is a snap.

As for the concrete between the tracks, maybe this will give you some ideas: http://www.telusplanet.net/public/crowley/ashphalt_roads.htm




usamaibnmunqidh
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Thank You Philip, this
Thank You Philip, this asphalt road tutorial is incredible!
--

Greetings from Budapest,

Levente




usamaibnmunqidh
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Another question: Are
Another question: Are Walthers cornerstone and the DPM modular system compatible with each other?
--

Greetings from Budapest,

Levente




FergusonTE
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Which paint to mix with plaster?

usamaibnmunqidh wrote:
Mike, what kind of paint should I mix to the plaster and when? I'm sure I have to mix the paint in it when I have already added the water...

I have mixed water-based paint (acrylic, latex, etc) with plaster with good success. I believe, however, that you don't want too much paint in the plaster or it will weaken the mixture. Since plaster is white, you will mix in some black paint in order to get a gray concrete.

-mike




BryanC
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A thick cardboard will also

A thick cardboard will also work! In the present scenery area I have used thick cardboard between the tracks in parallel grade crossings. It has actually worked pretty well. I used the thick cardboard cut from the boxes used for liquor gift boxes. (My local liquor store just gave me one for the asking). I cut it, sanded it, glued it into place and then painted it. I used a brown paint since I was trying to represent wood.

Since it is part of the current scenery effort there is nothing, as yet, on my web site about this - but there will be!

Glue it thoroughly to avoid any curling along the edges and be prepared to use a sharp hobby knife to trim it as necessary (after completely dry).


--

Cheers!

Bryan C
Alligator Lines "The Eclectic Line of the South"

http://ALines.home.att.net




pcarrell
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Asphalt comment

usamaibnmunqidh wrote:
Thank You Philip, this asphalt road tutorial is incredible!

You're most welcome.  I've used this method and it worked well for me.  Change the color some and you've got concrete instead of asphalt. 

Philip

Preach the Gospel at all times, use words if necessary




pcarrell
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Walthers and DPM

usamaibnmunqidh wrote:
Another question: Are Walthers cornerstone and the DPM modular system compatible with each other?

They'll play nice together, but sometimes you have to tweak things to get them to line up right since they're not made for each other.




MooseID
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You can also....

....use a release agent such as petroleum jelly to make removal of the spacers easier.

Cardboard will be too difficult to release, use the styrene.

I have also used modeling clay to make gaps in plaster moldings.  Petroleum jelly makes it easy to release.

 Have fun.

Moose




pcarrell
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Release agent
MooseID wrote:

....use a release agent such as petroleum jelly to make removal of the spacers easier.

Cardboard will be too difficult to release, use the styrene.

I have also used modeling clay to make gaps in plaster moldings.  Petroleum jelly makes it easy to release.

 Have fun.

Moose

Pam cooking spray works well too.




Geep15T
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suggestion.
If your gonna do a module of something like the Square, I would use styrene because of the long straights. Styrene is alittle easier to work with. I started this year a Proto:87 module of Goose Island in Chicago. I've been expiermenting with several methods for doing street running scenes. so far I've tried plaster, joint compund, and styrene. Besides being less messy, styrene is also smoother. the only other method I know of is anchor bolt cement.


usamaibnmunqidh
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Posts: 20
Joined: 2007-11-15
Thank You very much for all
Thank You very much for all your help, but alas now I don't know which way to choose :)
--

Greetings from Budapest,

Levente




MooseID
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Yes, sometimes .........

usamaibnmunqidh wrote:
Thank You very much for all your help, but alas now I don't know which way to choose :)

.......too much information can be worse that not enough.

I suggest that you take a piece of scrap track and nail it to a board. Then experiment with different methods until you find the one you like best.

Have fun.

Moose




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