Window Awnings

FrankG
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No votes yet

Does anyone have any suggestions for modeling convincing window awnings?  I'm looking to do the individual light cloth awnings typical of '40s department stores -- not the heavy-duty awnings that would hang over the front door.

Something like: http://www.viewimages.com/Search.aspx?mid=3199643&epmid=1&partner=Google


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ranulf
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Just a few ideas:

I have never built any awnings except the plastic ones that came with some kits.  They look too hard to be really convincing.  Perhaps if some wrinkles were added using putty or something the effect would be more realistic. 

I remember some kit I had once which came with printed paper awnings to cut out and fold up. Would that work? Perhaps you could make them on the computer and print them out.

Just brainstorming here, how's this for the germ of an idea? 

I have seen some very convincing tarps made with tissue soaked in thinned white glue draped over model loads.  I wonder if that may be a method to use here.  Perhaps make a mold from Sculpey (or equivalent) the size and shape of the awning, bake it, and seal it with lacquer. When it's completely dry, a spritz of Pam or something, then lay the glue soaked tissue over it and let it dry.  After it's dried you could trim out the flaps with a scissors and it may be possible to add wrinkles and wind effects with a wet paintbrush, although that should probably be done while the tissue is wet...

 As for painting, that will be the tricky part if you want to keep it translucent, I'm not sure how to go about accomplishing that.  Watercolors are out, unless they were added to the glue mix.  I suppose you could find colored tissue.  Maybe that would work... cream colored tissue and just paint stripes on with enamels after the tissue is dry?  Then at least part of the awning would be translucent...

 


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69Z28
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Neat idea!  I might be

Neat idea!  I might be able to use it on some trailers.

Thanks

Ron


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greentowner
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Model Aeroplane Approach

A modification along a similar theme you could try making a frame from fuse wire then covering with tissue paper and coloured dope. I've had some success with this for faking canvas covers over crates etc on model boats.




ranulf
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Wire frame! I LIKE that

Wire frame! I LIKE that idea!!!!  That'd be simple and have the advantage of allowing each awning made on it to be a unique individual, as opposed to a clone of the mold.

I never thought about dope, either.  For some reason I thought that was obsolete, replaced by silkspan or mylar or whatever they use now. 

I love this site.  Great for brainstorming ideas and I always learn something from it. 


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Komata
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Window Awnings

For what it's worth:

A development of ranulf's tarpaulin idea is to do the following:

Create a basic frame from styrene strip, card, balsa or whatever your material of choice may be (even a soldered wire one could be used), and attach it to your building (using CA?)

Tube Acrylics are then painted onto toilet tissue (being double-ply it's actually stronger than ordinary tissue), with the base (background) coat being applied first, then the stripes as appropriate.

The lower of the two ply's may distort and shred a bit as a result of the painting, so some care will be require, but as it is the TOP layer that you are interested in this not particularly important.

When everything is dried, cut the tissue to length and drape it over the frame to see how it 'sags'.

The paint will give the tissue a bit of 'body' and keep it from shreddng, yet at the same time it will give some flexibility, so you can make it 'sag' as you wish.

When you are satisfied with what you've done, apply a small quantity of PVA to the frame and place the painted tissue over it.

The PVA will give you a bit of time to readjust and stretch the tissue as you need to, while the paint will keep the tissue all together so that it won't shred as tissue tends to do when just coated with PVA.

Experiment to see if it works for you - it may be what you require.

Hope that it helps.

Komata

"TVR - serving the Northern Taranaki . . . "


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Komata

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ranulf
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Way off topic, I know,

Way off topic, I know, but....

Fascinating to learn about Freedomland.  I had never heard of the park before reading the caption of the department store pic FrankG linked.  The place went bankrupt in just a few years, so I suppose it's not very surprising I'd never heard of it.

By dumb luck, I stumbled upon a site with a lot of pictures and some iformation about it:

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/RobFriedman/entrance.htm

Seemed like a neat idea initially.  I was saddened to read that within the second year of operation the historical aspects were reduced significantly in favor of more traditional amusement park rides and thrills.  On the other hand, judging by the picture of the "indians" and gunslingers, (check out those tiki-lounge style totem poles in the background) those same "historical aspects" were not very educational anyway...


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FrankG
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Trying this...

I think I've found a method that may work.  I've gotten mini-staples from which to build the awning frame. The width of the mini-staple is perfect for the window as is (horizontal across the front of the window with the staple's two side arms attached to the building).  Then, I have two more staples, each bent to form a triangle.  Those will be glued to the two side arms and to the building.  That should form the perfect frame. 

 I'm now experimenting with what to use to use for the actual awning.  Paper (printed with the awning stripes) has a perfect drape and thickness.  I've cut the paper into strips and then folded the strip over once so that the stripes appear on both sides (top and bottom). Then I'd just glue one end to the building and one to the staple.  But I'm concerned about how the paper will hold up, so I may try some other options first.


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PhilNSF
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Staple/Paper Awnings

This sounds like a good solution.  I've never done this, but I would like to make some similar awnings.

As far as the strength of the paper is concerned, there must be some sort of fixative (hair spray comes to mind) you could apply which would make it stronger while still looking like flexible fabric.

Again, I haven't tried this, so others may have better suggestions,

 Good luck and have fun,


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Phil Olmsted

San Francisco




FrankG
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Yet a different approach

DPM building in progress with awnings

I opted to go with a totally different approach after trying several things.  This photo doesn't do the awnings justice.  They look more realistic in person, and they're actually green awnings.  The photo makes them look almost like black and white striped -- they're green and black.

What I did was print the awning pattern on normal paper (laser printer).  I then glued it thin pieces of brass with CA.  These were left over scrap from a Gold Medal Models photo etched detail sheet.

 The brass is nice, because it bends to a nice curve easily and really stays nice and rigid.  I thought about doing the actual cross arm supports for the awnings, and still may, but they may be too small to work with.

 Since the photo was taken, I've completed all of the awnings.  All the windows (none on the back) have awnings except the far two columns of windows.  Those now have a fire escape in place. 

 I'll post more photos when the bulding is complete.


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Jimmi
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Clever idea, using brass. 
Clever idea, using brass.  They really look good.
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The secret of success is sincerity. Once you can fake that, you've got it made.    Jean Giraudoux

Jim




ranulf
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Good stuff!  I really like

Good stuff!  I really like how you used 'found" brass!  Do you have a micrometer or calipers to measure how thick the brass you used is? 

I also like the awning over the sidewalk.  What did you use for the corrugated edging? 


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"Do Not Hump!?!?! Does that mean what I think it means!?"

I only posted for the points.




FrankG
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I don't know how thick the

I don't know how thick the brass sheet is.  If it helps, it a sheet of 1:350 Titantic detail parts from GMM.  It's pretty thin.

One nice part is that you don't have to be percise on the pieces of brass you cut.  I actually kept the brass smaller than the paper awning so it doesn't show from the side.  The size of the paper is the important thing -- the brass is just there for support.  So this is a really easy project.

 For the awning overhang -- this didn't come out as ornate as I would have liked, but this is again really simple.

 The overhang itself  is simple stryene mitered and cut to size. The decorative edge is a I believe a Model Power white picket fence.  That edge is actually just a section of the fence with the top and bottom removed.  That left two horizontal boards and evenly spaced vertical boards -- alternating board with open space.

 The two horizontals fit nicely around the styrene overhang and creates a nice 3D detail.  You probably can't tell in the photo, but the raised bits of detail there are sqaure on the top and rounded on the bottom.  This was how the fence was, but looked like it would work here.

Thanks for the comments.


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Follow along as I recreate a post-war 1940s urban environment in N scale, plus tutorials, tips and more: http://nscale.wordpress.com


Komata
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Posts: 1260
Joined: 2005-05-12
Window Awnings

Frank

VERY Nice Indeed - congratulations sir on an amazing result - very effective!

Thanks too for sharing the 'Brass Alternative' with us - that was a medium I had never even considered when making my reply - an excellent idea indeed!!  The things we learn . .

Komata

"TVR - serving the Northern Taranaki . . . "

 


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Komata

"TVR - serving the Northern Taranaki . . . " ___________________________________________




Will_annand
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Joined: 2004-03-19
my idea would be to use
my idea would be to use white metal or brass for the railings and cut used dryer sheets into small pieces, dip them in glue and place them over the frames, and when dry, paint them.
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Will -- Modeling the Credit Valley circa 1880-1900 www.muskokacomputes.com/CVR_Home.htm


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