Ultra simple switch spring

I hate you for this.  I'm killing myself looking at 'clever' switch mechanisms and I managed to overlook 'simple'. 

Grumble...

I wish I could take credit for this gem- it's a brillant thing.  It won't replace more complex mechanisms in hard to reach spots, but the cost to me for my 16 yard turnouts is $0.

I have not looked closely at Peco before, but from what I have seen, I really prefer the look of the Altas turnouts to Peco. 

I will say, the Atlas code 55 turnouts are pretty fragile.  I have soldered power leads to rail joiners and the stiff 20 ga wire is enough to wrench the rail out of the ties on the ends if you are not careful.

Deadlines at work have stalled laying the iron for the day, but I hope to have a test train on the line next Weekend!

I learn better from pictures.  I have difficulty seeing how this spring fits to the turnout,
and how it works.

What activates it?

Moose

Moose, look at a PECO turnout (LHS, online image, one of the "modify a PECO turnout" sites)...

It's an over-center spring... the distance between the hole in the tie-bar and the hole in the fixed tie becomes less as you begin to throw the t/o... once it passes center, the distance begins to increase... the 'V' shaped spring/wire is trying to force the holes away from each other, so keeps pressure on the point blade in either thrown position...

Sorry, the picture is meant to show you can position the spring on either side of the movable tie.  You only need one spring.

Cheers,

ScottL

That is it.  It is clear how it works when someone else presents it.  Thanks.

Interesting link, but that is not how it works.  Bryan's diagram works for me, but I've seen it in action.  It lies on top of the ties and fits into the two holes you drill.  It is really so simple, you'll be in shock when you try it.

I too thought about putting it below the ties (the underside), but decided not to because it could get gummed up by ballast, glue, etc.  Also, if you want to upgrade to a Tortoise or something else, it would be tricky to remove it without removing the turnout.

Question - where did you drill the hole?

I was looking at the turnouts, cosidering how I might control the points and based on your description you must have drilled a hole in that fragile little area between the small plastic stirrup between the point ends.  I thought that this looked too fragile for drilling - is that where you inserted the spring? 

ScottL, I have several turnouts along the edge.  This should work great for me.  Thanks for the post!

Bronman,  I'm just at the planning stage for my yard and shop area.  Thanks for the link. This is similar to what I was planning to try.

How much "spring" is in the wire you're using?... is it enough to keep a positive closure force on the blades?

How much play is there between the holes and wire?... is the play taking up most of your available "spring" action?

It's not a matter of it not clicking into place at all actually.  I've made two so far that are perfect.  The problem that I'm running into is making them consistantly.  Some come out way too big and some are too small.  Is there some kind of tool that everyone is using to do this.  I've just been using some pliars and eyeballing it, I know thats not the best method but that's all I could figure out.  I'm not a tool guru lol.

-Joe 

Thats a good idea.  Like making a template.  I'll have to give that a try, sounds promising.

-Joe 

That looks like a handy little tool there.  I like it.  Could be quite useful for many applications.  Steep price though.  I wonder if Home Depot or Lowes would carry something similar for cheaper.  Looks like it would definitely get the job done though, especially if you had to make a real lot of these little springs.

-Joe 

  I think it's a great idea Scott. I am still HORRIFIED at the cost of Tortoise switch machines. I would much rather put that money into cars and locos.

Jacko 

70 bucks for a grab iron jig is insane.  They only have to charge so much for them because so few people buy them I suspect.  There are several options for making jigs to bend wire.  One of the simplest is a scrap of aluminum or brass sheet with holes drilled in it, or pins sticking out of it (soldered in place so they don't bend) which the wire can be wrapped around.  Tiny needlenose are an option, but this gets tricky.  I have seen a pair someone made once out of cheapie smooth jaw duckbill pliers.  The inventor milled down the side of the pliers at an angle and filed slots in the jaws (to help hold the wire) at various widths to make a few sizes of grabs.  This was either a magazine article or a webpage, I don't remember which.  A little imagination is all you need to make most any jig, really.

Hi all,

 I've been working up north and out of contact for a long time.  I was surprised (and pleased!) this thread is still going.  This is a nice easy way to get the turnouts running, and you can add more complicated switches later if you wish.

 I used stiff piano wire from the hobby store and a pair of needle nose pliers.  I installed 16 for a total of $0.  They still flick and lock the points nicely. and have survived hours of flicking by my kids as they watch me carve foam and plant trees.

 It is definitely a case where less is more.  As the original article in Model Railroader stated, if it does not work the first time, just make another.  I eyeballed all of mine and they all worked well.

 Cheers,

Scott

It needs to be stiff wire so guitar strings won't work.  Sorry.

 Scott