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Thread: Wheel Flange Size

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    Default Re:Wheel Flange Size

    So the flanges are gauged correctly right? If understand you correctly, you don't have any problems, you just have large flanges on the wheels, which is every common. You just have the older pizza cutter style flanges, not the NMRA recommended RP-25 wheels, which are more commonly known as low profile wheels.

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    Default Re: Wheel Flange Size

    Quote Originally Posted by "k5knt"
    Is this normal or should I replace the wheels? If I need to replace the wheels, any recommendations on brand or type?
    It's up to you, but there are other factors to consider. Here are a few of them:
    [list]
    How well do the cars roll?
    Do you have MTL coupers on the cars? If not, Do you plan on installing them? If you do, are you going to truck mount or body mount the couplers?
    What rail code are you going to use on your layout?[/list:u]

    Now, wheels that meet the NMRA standards actually do offer some benifits over wheels that don't. The major advantage is there is less rolling mass attached to the wheel, which reduces the rolling friction associated with the wheel.

    Paul

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    Default Re:Wheel Flange Size

    Quote Originally Posted by "F15IkeUSAF"
    You just have the older pizza cutter style flanges, not the NMRA recommended RP-25 wheels, which are more commonly known as low profile wheels.
    Small lesson here.

    The NMRA actually has a standard for the flange dimentions, not just a recommended practice. The wheel dimentions are given in Standard S-4. In it's current format, the standard scale wheels are defined in NMRA Standard S-4.2 (http://www.nmra.org/standards/S-4_2ScaleWheels.html) and fine scale wheels are defined in Standard S-4.1 (http://www.nmra.org/standards/S-4_1ProtoWheels.html). The dimentions now in Standard S-4.2 were actually S-4 prior to the last revision to this standard. The N-scale dimentions have been defined in the standard since at least the mid 1980s.

    It's actually NMRA S-4 wheels that are sometimes refered to as low profile wheels.

    NMRA RP-25 (http://www.nmra.org/standards/rp25.html) actually specifies a wheel contour. All wheels that have the RP-25 contour meet standard S-4, but not all wheels that meet standard S-4 have the RP-25 wheel contour.

    Paul

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    Default Re: Wheel Flange Size

    Quote Originally Posted by "F15IkeUSAF"
    So the flanges are gauged correctly right? If understand you correctly, you don't have any problems, you just have large flanges on the wheels, which is every common. You just have the older pizza cutter style flanges, not the NMRA recommended RP-25 wheels, which are more commonly known as low profile wheels.
    I'm guessing the flanges are gauged correctly. They fit in the notches, width wise. Is there any online resources on how to properly use the standards gauge?

    Quote Originally Posted by "pbender"
    It's sortof up to you, but there are other factors to consider. Here are a few of them:
    [list]
    How well do the cars roll?
    Do you have MTL coupers on the cars? If not, Do you plan on installing them? If you do, are you going to truck mount or body mount the couplers?
    What rail code are you going to use on your layout?[/list:u]
    From what limited testing I've done, the cars seem to roll ok. I don't have any track laid permanently at the moment.

    Couplers: All but two of the cars are at least 20 years old. They all have Micro-Trains (is that MTL?) couplers The two newer cars, both model power which I bought on sale) currently have rapido couplers. All the couplers are truck mounted. Is one method better than the other? I can't see any way to body mount.

    I have no idea what rail code I will be using. Suggestions? I currently have 2 packages of Atlas Code 80 rerailers that I recently purchased along with an assortment of 20 year old Atlas sectional track that has no code indicated on the package. I'm more than willing to replace it if there is something better. I do plan on using flextrack as much as possible.

    Now, wheels that meet the NMRA standards actually do offer some benifits over wheels that don't. The major advantage is there is less rolling mass attached to the wheel, which reduces the rolling friction associated with the wheel.

    Paul
    OK, so I should probably replace the wheels. I'm guessing the best bet would be to replace the truck assembly on the two with the rapido couplers.

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    Default Problem with PECO wheelsets.

    I have a definite problem with PECO wheelsets. Not only are the flanges too close together to fit in the NMRA gauge, they also hang up in Micro Engineering Code 70 switches! And, since the wheels and axles are a one piece casting, gauge cannot be adjusted.


    Yet, the total axle length is longer than other wheel axle sets, so Bachmann or Atlas wheels drop out of the journals. No problem with Dapol wheels. Any suggestions re: replacement wheels that meet NMRA specification?

    Put the MODELING back in model railroading.

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    Default Re:Wheel Flange Size

    My initial thought, would be to take a small square of styrene that's ~.005" or .010" thick (depending on how short the new axle is... use an awl or scribe and make an indentation in the center, then glue it to the inside of the journal...
    Bryan
    “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” ~ Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519)

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    Default Re: Wheel Flange Size

    Quote Originally Posted by "k5knt"
    Quote Originally Posted by "F15IkeUSAF"
    So the flanges are gauged correctly right? If understand you correctly, you don't have any problems, you just have large flanges on the wheels, which is every common. You just have the older pizza cutter style flanges, not the NMRA recommended RP-25 wheels, which are more commonly known as low profile wheels.
    I'm guessing the flanges are gauged correctly. They fit in the notches, width wise. Is there any online resources on how to properly use the standards gauge?
    Yes, see http://www.nmra.org/standards/rp2.html

    Couplers: All but two of the cars are at least 20 years old. They all have Micro-Trains (is that MTL?) couplers The two newer cars, both model power which I bought on sale)
    Yes, MTL is "Micro Trains Line". of course, I'm just as likely to call them Kadee couplers as MTL couplers (MTL and Kadee are run by two brothers. It was one company (Kadee) until the early 1990s).

    currently have rapido couplers. All the couplers are truck mounted. Is one method better than the other? I can't see any way to body mount.
    It's mostly a matter of prefrences. There isn't really a one size fits all answer to this question

    Body mounting is more prototypical, and in general the cars handle better when pushed in long strings with body mounted couplers (I've been known to run 50+ car trains backwards around N-trak layouts with the locomotives pushing - even through yard ladders).

    With body mounts, you are restricted to a larger minimum radius (I recommend at least 15&quot and it does take some work to body mount couplers to some cars.

    I have no idea what rail code I will be using. Suggestions? I currently have 2 packages of Atlas Code 80 rerailers that I recently purchased along with an assortment of 20 year old Atlas sectional track that has no code indicated on the package. I'm more than willing to replace it if there is something better. I do plan on using flextrack as much as possible.
    The older track you have is code 80. Atlas has only been in the code 55 business for about 5 years.

    Here's what I suggest as far as deciding what track to use. Go out and buy yourself a couple sections of flextrack and a switch in both Code 55 and code 80.

    With both the code 55 and code 80, Set up a small test track with the switch in the middle leading off to a siding. you'll end up with something that resembles the letter 'y' If you use 3 pieces of flextrack, you can actually do this without cutting any rail.

    This will give you an oportunity to play with the track without too much investment one way or the other. Ultimatly, this will give you a better idea of how the track goe together, and how your equipment operates on the track.

    OK, so I should probably replace the wheels. I'm guessing the best bet would be to replace the truck assembly on the two with the rapido couplers.
    That's going to be the easiest thing to do.

    Paul

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    Default Re: Problem with PECO wheelsets.

    Quote Originally Posted by "thirdrail"
    Yet, the total axle length is longer than other wheel axle sets, so Bachmann or Atlas wheels drop out of the journals. No problem with Dapol wheels. Any suggestions re: replacement wheels that meet NMRA specification?
    Have you checked to see if Northwest Short Line has appropriate replacements?

    NWSL has a range of axle lengths, but I haven't checked to see if they have replacements for Peco wheelsets.

    Paul

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    Default Re: Problem with PECO wheelsets.

    Quote Originally Posted by "thirdrail"
    I have a definite problem with PECO wheelsets. Not only are the flanges too close together to fit in the NMRA gauge, they also hang up in Micro Engineering Code 70 switches!
    Probably because the PECO stuff is all made to 1:148 scale British N Gauge?
    Just an uneducated guess.

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    Default Re: Problem with PECO wheelsets.

    Quote Originally Posted by "allan1010"
    Quote Originally Posted by "thirdrail"
    I have a definite problem with PECO wheelsets. Not only are the flanges too close together to fit in the NMRA gauge, they also hang up in Micro Engineering Code 70 switches!
    Probably because the PECO stuff is all made to 1:148 scale British N Gauge?
    Just an uneducated guess.

    I wouldn't think so. Although the scale is different, the gauge remains the same.

    I've had trouble with Peco wagons too, on Atlas code 80. They do not like to travel through turnouts. Perhaps it's Peco's way of saying, "Thanks for buying our wagons. Now go buy some of our track." :P

    Ray

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    Default Re:Wheel Flange Size

    Since the problem car is a brake van with steps, I am going to try to glue a .010"x.020" styrene strip on one side to retain the axles. If that is a problem, understand metal Intermountain wheels have .570" axles, so I'll try them next. But I'll have to buy a dozen to get two.

    Put the MODELING back in model railroading.

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    Default Re:Wheel Flange Size

    Quote Originally Posted by "thirdrail"
    Since the problem car is a brake van with steps, I am going to try to glue a .010"x.020" styrene strip on one side to retain the axles. If that is a problem, understand metal Intermountain wheels have .570" axles, so I'll try them next. But I'll have to buy a dozen to get two.
    The styrene strips worked. Guess I'll have to do the Colman's Mustard Traffic van next. Hate to change the wheels on this, though, as they are spoked and have white rims! :P

    Oh well, bought this stuff to run on my portable layout anyhow! 8)

    Put the MODELING back in model railroading.

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    Default Re: Problem with PECO wheelsets.

    Quote Originally Posted by "bikerraypa"
    I wouldn't think so. Although the scale is different, the gauge remains the same.
    DOH!!!
    Stupid newbie comment.
    Just ignore me if I haven't had more than 4 or 5 hours' sleep for a week solid.
    Despite an early night last night and a full litre of energy drinks I'm STILL feeling like I could grab a couple hours' nap!

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