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Thread: Con-Cor 2-10-2 RANT

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    Default Re:Con-Cor 2-10-2 RANT

    I thought that most new Con-Cor offerings used the DZ123PS or DZ143PS. It uses a standard plug. I think that is what my Zephyr takes but I'm holding out for sound.


    Jason

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    Default Re:Con-Cor 2-10-2 RANT

    Jason.....Thanks for that info on the digitrax decoders.

    The ZIMO MX620 engine decoder that I installed, after modifying the plug-in part, comes with sound built into it, but it only has enough capacity to give the steamer either a sound chuff or a whistle. I'm going for the chuff.

    The pins on the ZIMO MX620 plug-in decoder are way too small to fit in the receptacle in the Con-Cor 2-10-2 tender. Your Zepher would probably have the same problem.

    With the large Con-Cor tender (unlike anything CNR used) all you'd need to do is run one wire from the MX620 decoder installed in the tender, to an amplifier and then to the speaker and then a ground wire. That's what the ZIMO rep told me.

    I'd sure like to see how big the standard plug on the Digitrax plug in decoder is. I was told that if the if the digitrax plug-in decoder fits the plug in the Con-Cor 2-10-2 tender, then it is an HO sized pin plug.

    I thought all this decoder stuff was standardized. From what I've seen, it looks like the Europeans are building their decoder parts a lot smaller than the North Americans are.

    I'm trying to find some small amplifiers and speakers now. Apparently, ZIMO will be coming out with their own in a while to augment the MX620 that has the sound in it.

    Gary

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    Default Re:Con-Cor 2-10-2 RANT

    Quote Originally Posted by "cnguy"
    Jason.....Thanks for that info on the digitrax decoders.

    The ZIMO MX620 engine decoder that I installed, after modifying the plug-in part, comes with sound built into it, but it only has enough capacity to give the steamer either a sound chuff or a whistle. I'm going for the chuff.

    The pins on the ZIMO MX620 plug-in decoder are way too small to fit in the receptacle in the Con-Cor 2-10-2 tender. Your Zepher would probably have the same problem.

    With the large Con-Cor tender (unlike anything CNR used) all you'd need to do is run one wire from the MX620 decoder installed in the tender, to an amplifier and then to the speaker and then a ground wire. That's what the ZIMO rep told me.

    I'd sure like to see how big the standard plug on the Digitrax plug in decoder is. I was told that if the if the digitrax plug-in decoder fits the plug in the Con-Cor 2-10-2 tender, then it is an HO sized pin plug.

    I thought all this decoder stuff was standardized. From what I've seen, it looks like the Europeans are building their decoder parts a lot smaller than the North Americans are.

    I'm trying to find some small amplifiers and speakers now. Apparently, ZIMO will be coming out with their own in a while to augment the MX620 that has the sound in it.

    Gary
    The socket in the 2-10-2 is an NMRA standard type. It's the same size as the sockets in my Pioneer Zephyr, GS4 and PCM E7's.

    I would say that the plug on your Zimo is using the European NEM type.


    Regards

    Phill Perry
    Brisbane Australia

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    Default Re:Con-Cor 2-10-2 RANT

    I used a Digitrax DZ143PS that has the plug already on it in my Con-Cor GS4 it plugged in without any issues .
    Boilerman

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    Default Re:Con-Cor 2-10-2 RANT

    Quote Originally Posted by "Boiler-man"
    I used a Digitrax DZ143PS that has the plug already on it in my Con-Cor GS4 it plugged in without any issues .
    That's good you were able to do that Boiler-man, thanks for the info.

    Actually, if any more steamers come decoder plug in ready, like the Con-Cor 2-10-2, it's no big deal for me to add a horribly oversized plug-in connector like the Digitrax DZ143PS uses, to the ZIMO MX620. That will allow me to be able to utilize the better decoder that has sound, a circuit breaker and 90c protection in it.

    With a little modification the shunt plug that comes with the Con-Cor 2-10-2 that allows it to run on DC, could be utilized for just that purpose. It's a good idea however to keep one of those shunt plugs intact, so you can remove any type of decoder while trying to fix a bad running engine so you can test it with DC on the bench.

    I was able to stuff the smaller ZIMO decoder down through the speaker hole in the tender circuit board (wrapped in tape of course) and put it under the circuit board. That left room on top of the board to add 3/4 of an ounce of weight. I wish I could say that helped the pickup...it didn't.

    I guess I got two dud engines here. Only one of the three I bought, runs decently.

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    Default sorry for reviving an old

    sorry for reviving an old thread, but I got questions...*I've been working on installing a Micro-Tsunami Soundtraxx decoder into a Con-cor 2-10-2... it's not going so hot.*The locomotive idles just fine, and even though this 0.5 inch 'Big Sound' speaker, the volume is tremendously louder than that of my Athearn Challenger. In fact, I think the sound is even better (the chuffs sound a lil odd tho...)*Anyways, major pickup issues are driving me nuts. Once you give it some throttle the decoder dies out. the decoder is too big to fit under the circuit board... so I tried adding some brass weight in the tender's raised section and that didn't work at all. Looks like I'll need a few grams of weight to get anything to work... ideas?*I'm having similar issues with my Walthers 0-8-0*
    Luke

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    Default Wired wrote:... ideas?Clean

    Quote Originally Posted by Wired
    ... ideas?
    Clean the wheels and track...
    Bryan
    “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” ~ Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519)

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    Default Maybe the contacts from the

    Maybe the contacts from the wheels to the tender to the decoder need some help, cleaning, or even soldering*some fine wires to the wheel contacts to supplement the existing electrical connection.* If you could squeeze something like that between the trucks and the tender.
    Charles

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    Default done

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan
    Quote Originally Posted by Wired
    ... ideas?
    Clean the wheels and track...
    test track is brand new kato unitrack, and the loco is brand new. I did take a brite boy to both just in case.***-------------------------------------------------------<ul>[*]Luke[*]http://nscalebc.blogspot.com/[*]The Pacific Great Southern Railway in N-Scale.[/list]<div>
    Luke

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    Default 2-10-2 Problems

    While I have no problems (so far) with my 2-10-2, I note that others have had them.* Nor did I install DCC so, I did not have to disassemble it for any reason beyond changing the trailing truck to an inside bearing variety.* Problems seem to center around the electrical feed from the engine back to the tender and back to the loco.* Apparently, the loco gathers juice but it feeds the board in the tender which, then, feeds the juice to the motor.* If the drawbar connections are misaligned or the first tender truck contacts are not properly aligned, pick-up problems result.* Extra weight in the front of the tender seems to help in some cases.* This topic is discussed at length on Atlas:http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50733Hope this helps.
    Dick,

    Usually, when all is said and done, there's a lot more said than done!

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    Default bahahahahahhaah! Things get

    bahahahahahhaah! Things get better before they get worse don't they?*I got the loco running! I ran individual wires from the wipers on the trucks to the wipers on the PC board. I then ran wires from the loco frame to the respective points on the PC board... I then went and added about 5 grams of lead weight to the tender and insulated it. Put it on my test oval in the living room of Bachmann ez-track (because the Kato stuff I have is only a straight line) * and tried it out.**It stalled at first, and I got mad and walked away..and decided to start on another project. Then... all of a sudden from the other room I hear the magical noise of a loco running around the tracks and sound pouring out of it's speakers.... THE 2-10-2 DECIDED TO COME TO LIFE!*I watched it in amazement for about 20 minutes. It stalled once or twice, but it was a site to behold as this massive locomotive threw itself around curves of 11" at 50% throttle making wonderful steaming noises.I then proceeded to start stripping the wires on my DZ123 for it's next project... and then I stop hearing the locomotives motor...but I still hear chuffing from the speaker.*I turn and look...sure enough she is stationary. I try and wiggle the drivers a bit... their rock solid. I fear this loco is now siezed.*If that didn't make things better... when stripping the wires from the DZ123... I accidentatly yanked the wires from the decoder.*Then when I went to test the other loco I got for xmas on DC... it don't work.*[img]/modules/tinymce/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-yell.gif[/img]*
    Luke

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    Default Don't feel bad about the

    Don't feel bad about the wire coming off the decoder...From the latest batch of DZ125's that I've had, the wires near enough fall off (they don't need yanking)... generally, the offending wires seem to have more char on the insulation... process control issue?... and what about QC to catch them before shipping?Whilst the task of soldering the wire back onto the board isn't a big one, regularly having to do so on new decoders becomes a PiTA... it also becomes a concern for the potential of failing somewhere down the line... needless to say I'm currently less than impressed with Digitrax.
    Bryan
    “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” ~ Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519)

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    Default yea I'm going over to MRC

    yea I'm going over to MRC and Lenz decoders after this event...*whats the pinout for the Digitrax decoders? I found a general 'order' from the digitrax manual, but I don't trust it.**
    Luke

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    Default

    I know this an old thread...but... if you have pick up priblems with your CC 2-10-2 check this out

    http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/cc2102.html
    Sean Barry

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