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Thread: Close Coupling Intermountain F7 units

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    Default Close Coupling Intermountain F7 units

    I have seen various threads here and elsewhere on how to close couple IMRC F units. The methods I have seen are draw bar and Unimates. Draw bar seem okay but would prefer to be able to put away my trains when I need to. The Unimates sound great but seem unavailable. Any other ideas? Anyone have Unimates to sell? Need enough for 1 F7 A&B and 1 f7 ABA. Any ideas or help would be great.

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    I have the same problem with a pair of Kato F7s. I am currently using Unimates but do not have too many otherwise you would be welcome to them. Even with the Unimates the distance seems to be to far apart. I am using the short ones. I have a pair of dummy knuckle couplers with my brass F7s and they are coupled nice and close and run around 12 in radius curves alright.

    If I could find the source for these I would be happy.

    Regards

    Al

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    why not try either some old red caboose (I have that betwen mine) or a bauchman dummy coupler?

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    Actually the unimates don't exist under the name unimate. Red Caboose bought the Precision master that produce unimates and now Red Caboose makes those couplers. These couplers do not couple or uncouple automatically. They work great for things you will not be coupling or uncoupling a lot. They can replace couplers with the T shank.

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    I have a bunch of the bachman dummy couplers i bought on a whim awhile back when i first started on the n scale trek...the use of them never panned out for me.....if you havent allready tried them, and would like too, shoot me a IM or email, BRC12BRC@aol.com, or phone call @ 330-331-7086,, can leave a message if I'm not there, and i'll send you a few pair to try.
    I bought some big gob stopper ecomomy pack of like 50 or something, and just have no use at the time, figgure holding on to 5 or so for "just in case is more than enough to have on had for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oval4ever View Post
    ... shoot me a IM or email, ********@aol.com, or phone call @ 999-999-9999,, can leave a message if I'm not there, and i'll send you a few pair to try. ...
    Doug, I am not sure about placing your email and phone number there for the world to see! I am sure there will be no issues with other members but we can't vouch for anyone else!

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    If I was worried I would not have done it in the first place, thanks for the baby sit offer

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    Since we are on the subject, will 2 stock kato F3A's hook up together back to back alright with the stock couplers?
    Ronnie-The Toolman
    The Lake of The Ozarks

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    I made drawbars for my 2 sets of F units. To put them back in the jewel cases if necessary it is pretty easy to remove a screw from 1 of the units to separate them. The drawbars work great and the units look much better close coupled.
    Dennis

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis R View Post
    I made drawbars for my 2 sets of F units. To put them back in the jewel cases if necessary it is pretty easy to remove a screw from 1 of the units to separate them. The drawbars work great and the units look much better close coupled.
    What did you make your drawbars out of? I was considering brass.

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    I ended up just hooking them back to back. The very inside track they run on has 9 3/4" radius corners an I didn't wanna get'em to close. It works good enough for me the way it is I suppose.
    Last edited by The Toolman; 14th Feb 2011 at 08:08 AM. Reason: track size wrong
    Ronnie-The Toolman
    The Lake of The Ozarks

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhendy29 View Post
    What did you make your drawbars out of? I was considering brass.
    I used a thin piece of plastic. Works great. I would think brass would work also.
    Dennis

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