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Thread: Air Brush - Tip Size.

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    Default Air Brush - Tip Size.

    Not so much about which brand is best .....
    What I want to know is .....

    What size tip do you use?

    2, 3, 3.5 ...?

    What works best for you?
    Why?

    Have you tried different ones?

    Do you use a different size depending on the paint (enamel, acrylic, etc ....)?
    Why?
    Wikikamoocow Valley RR

    Where all the great railroads of the world interchange


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    for 99% of painting (mainly plastic modeling, i use medium and fine needles, never ever had to whip out the ol' large till today when i sprayed a coat of tannish brown for a basecolor for my layout.) It would have been a wiser move now that i look back on it to just use a pint or so of latex paint and a roller. anywho, exceptions aside, for N scale, small and a medium needles are all you should really ever need, the medium needle for my cresecondo 175 and 200 can produce lines 2" wide, more then ample enough for any work that requires any sort of detail and precision. also, what brand of airbrushes do you use or want to use?

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    Honestly, I didnt know there is a "size". I know I can get a nice wide swipe and can make it nice and thin. Now I need to find out what I'm using.
    Kevin
    The NEW New Haven
    Serving the Northeast corridor and beyond.......

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    I generally find myself using the medium tip, as well, on both my single action external mix Paasche H and my dual action internal mix VL. I'm having a tough time getting used to the VL. My mind keeps thinking single-action mode, so I'm not using the double action to it's fullest.

    To paint finer, bring the airbrush closer, reduce paint flow and pressure accordingly. To paint broader, back off, and crank open the tip. I don't think our needs are as complicated as some of the airbrush artists:


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    Quote Originally Posted by buffalowings View Post
    also, what brand of airbrushes do you use or want to use?
    Therein lies the rub ..... All my auto guns are top end, as is the De Vilbiss airless I use for big paint jobs .... but when I bought a graffiti brush, I cheaped out.
    Like, it is fine for the jobs I bought it for, but for nS modelling, I'm just not getting the results I hoped for.

    I'm putting it down to 50% operator ID 10T error & 50% equipment unsuitability (tip size).

    I have been looking at Paasche ..... but must admit that I am totally in awe after watching the CFO get her nails done in town. What this little girl could do was using a suction gun with a 0.35mm tip ..... (Dual action, internal mix)

    Which got me to ScratchingChin.gif .......
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    Well, you know, even Ansel Adams made fine polaroids. It's just a tool for the artist.

    FWIW, I've used Badger and Paasche. I started out with a very cheap Badger, and moved up to the 350. Friend of mine bouth a Paasche H, and since they were very similar, I didn't think there would be any difference. There was. It was huge. The Paasche did a much better job putting down a nice, fine, even layer of paint. I've been a Paasche faithful ever since. I've really had no reason to go with anything else than my H. After about a decade of hemming and hawing about it, I bought the VL to try some weathering, and to see what a "real" artist's airbrush was capable of. It's going to take a lot of practice just to get up to where I was pretty automatically with the H.

    Everyone has their favorites. Some swear by Badger. Others say nothing less than an Iwata. Some really like Aztecs. It's like beer, cigars, and cars. Everyone has an opinion, and everyone else's stinks.

    Pretty much any syphon feed airbrush can use either paint cups or bottles. I don't think there's a gravity feed airbrush that will accept anything other than a cup. With the paints we have to apply, as thin as they are, I don't see a problem with syphon feed, and I can't see what the advantage of a gravity feed would be (although, for repainting cars, I do prefer gravity feed guns over "bottom feeders").

    Don't get "paralysis by analysis."

    - Arved

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arved View Post
    Well, you know, even Ansel Adams made fine polaroids. It's just a tool for the artist.

    FWIW, I've used Badger and Paasche. I started out with a very cheap Badger, and moved up to the 350. Friend of mine bouth a Paasche H, and since they were very similar, I didn't think there would be any difference. There was. It was huge. The Paasche did a much better job putting down a nice, fine, even layer of paint. I've been a Paasche faithful ever since. I've really had no reason to go with anything else than my H. After about a decade of hemming and hawing about it, I bought the VL to try some weathering, and to see what a "real" artist's airbrush was capable of. It's going to take a lot of practice just to get up to where I was pretty automatically with the H.

    Everyone has their favorites. Some swear by Badger. Others say nothing less than an Iwata. Some really like Aztecs. It's like beer, cigars, and cars. Everyone has an opinion, and everyone else's stinks.

    Pretty much any syphon feed airbrush can use either paint cups or bottles. I don't think there's a gravity feed airbrush that will accept anything other than a cup. With the paints we have to apply, as thin as they are, I don't see a problem with syphon feed, and I can't see what the advantage of a gravity feed would be (although, for repainting cars, I do prefer gravity feed guns over "bottom feeders").

    Don't get "paralysis by analysis."

    - Arved
    nicely said, I'm very much personal to badger (never used paasche, aztec, iwata or any of the no name brands on ebay either (not too keen on trying any of those el cheapos) the argument for gravity feed is that it is easier to clean and I would have to agree there if you were using a siphon feed bottle, but I'm currently using the open metal cup that came with my crescendo and it cleans very quickly
    I call my atlas trainmen gp-15 "lil' chew chew"

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    Your 350 and Crescendo look to be very, very similar to my Paasche's H and VL. Sometimes I wonder who copied whom.

    I switched from the 350 to the H about 20 years ago. It's quite possible that Badger has improved it since I had mine. I prefer the lock ring for the nozzle on the 350 over the set screw on the H - using fingers is better than having a fiddly allen wrench to loose.

    All the best,
    - Arved

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    Well, I've taken the plunge and purchased a Paasche ....

    More details when it arrives in a couple of days .....

    Paasche.jpg
    Wikikamoocow Valley RR

    Where all the great railroads of the world interchange


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    What were the drivers in your selection of an external mix airbrush vs. internal? If I recall in my research, internal mix has a finer dot pattern, offers better flow/control/detail, and external mix is typically used primarily for thicker paints and larger base-coating type jobs. If I'm only going to be detailing N scale stock, track, and structures....am I missing something in leaning towards internal mix?

    I'd appreciate any input. I believe I've settled on the Badger line and anticipate pulling the trigger on one soon. From what I've read in posts & reviews on other sites, their equipment is excellent quality, reasonably priced, and their customer service is exemplary.

    I plan on using only acrylic paints, and am leaning towards a single-action gravity feed (likely the 200 series). Gravity-fed for many of the reasons noted here...easier color change, cleanup, etc. Don't think I need a dual action, and gravity fed also requires lower psi which I believe may aid in easier detailing when trying to spray lower volumes of paint.

    Just curious as to what drove the decisions for external-mix vs. internal before I run off and invest in one.....

    Thanks!

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    This web site is very informative on all things airbrush:

    http://www.howtoairbrush.com/?tabid=38
    (The voices I hear in my head may not be real, but sometimes they come up with a good idea.)

    Have fun.

    Moose

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    http://www.in2art.com/store/departme...rush-Supplies/
    Anyone who has a BADGER AIRBRUSH needs to save this. These people have every single replacement part you will ever want for your brush. Excellant service, great inventory supply, quick shipping.

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    I use Iwata now , I tend to use .3 mostly ,and .5 for slightly larger things , but that size more for larger scales,I have used passche and badger , etc in the past but iwata score highly for me on ease of , precision build cleaning , spares , customer service etc...In fact I need to emphasise hoe EASY to clean a iwata is , easier than any other brand i have used , and that is probably all of them ..lol

    I havnt tried harder and steenbeck yet , these seem to be getting good reviews for a value end brush...might try and get one


    Saying that I also have bought , a couple of veda cheapies .2 for emergencies or paint colour changes , ie if weathering or suchlike... (one has stripped a nozzle after 6 mnths, mebbe my fault expecting iwata tolerances ) one still going strong


    they are very cheap ,they dont look externally as nicely machined (threads) as the more expensive , it is harder to clean (at least double the rubber seals) and you can feel this in the less smoothe trigger/air action , and the materials it is built from ore not as good(easier to strip the nozzle threads) BUT it is cheap , did I say that ? lol
    It does spray paint very well,which if you are slightly experienced in the care of and maintenace of airbrush ,do work as backups..

    I use now vallejo acrylics for airbrushing , both types the thicker normal stuff diluted.(modelcolour) , and theairbrush (Modelair ?)stuff, if using the thicker stuff after diluting add a drop of drying retarder to prevent nozzle drying or the paint drying before it hits the model , i think the thinner premixed model air paint has this in already.

    Imo a cheap airbrush using cans of propelant say , instead of even a cheap compressor , makes learning airbrushing really really hard , ending up in people being put off it and the idea being scrapped


    deffoes get good a DUAL ACTION airbrush IE dual controll in one trigger of air and paint mix airbrush , there is so much more controll and tbh imo if you use a single action you will be disapointed on the control and effects you can get .... use a mini compressor and go from there dont waste your time with cans of gas or car innertubes...For n scale go gravity feed you dont need to load up muchpaint,, less cleaning , less waste paint , no dangly jar , less mess.
    Last edited by grrf; 23rd Jun 2012 at 06:34 AM. Reason: add about usingacrylics

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    Paasche VL all the way. I am not a pro at no means.....But I have pisted of pros in painting contests for 1/10 scale RC off road trucks. and took four of their four foot trophys home four years in a row. so I'm hooked on the VL.

    ___________Just do it in Vinyl!__________


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    Yeah ... I'm VERY happy with my Paasche ......



    Wikikamoocow Valley RR

    Where all the great railroads of the world interchange


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    I have a Badger 350(medium), Testors 270(3 tip changeable) and one that came with my air compressor which has no name(No idea what tip size). All three work well but I do lean on my Badger 350 for most of what I do. I always thought the ability of the airbrush is in the hands of the user. Airbrushing goes back quite a number of years and the choices on the market then were few. Many of the early modelers even made their own.
    Do not go gentle into that good night - Thomas
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    I own an Iwata and a Badger 360 Universal and love them both, but for different reasons. I've been using an airbrush for modeling now for over 30 years, and have gotten quite comfortable and (dare I say) good using an airbrush. I have a fine (0.3mm) tip in the Iwata which I use primarily for close in detail work. The 360 has what I would call a "medium" tip, and I use it for both large and detail type work. I am SERIOUSLY considering a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity 2 in 1 brush in the near future. It's a BEAUTIFUL tool, and looks like it'll have a lot of functionality. In the final analysis, though, an airbrush is like ANY other tool. The more familiar you are with it, the more you practice with it, the BETTER YOU GET AT IT! I can do an appreciable and perfectly acceptable job with my old 360, and I can do a sloppy, crappy job with my fine, shiny Iwata....if I'm rusty or not paying attention. However, a high quality, well made tool in experienced hands can make magic. The only dog I will throw into this fight is that I RECOMMEND, not TELL....but RECOMMEND...that anyone considering taking the plunge at least buy a DECENT brush. DON'T get one of these $10.00 Harbor Freight/EvilBay/Walmart pieces of junk! It will only lead to frustration, heartache, ruined models, and probably never picking up an airbrush and advancing ones skills. Invest in a Brand Name (Pasche, Badger) lower end model, and a decent air source (read COMPRESSOR). Don't use canned air....its ridiculously expensive, freezes up, and lacks control. Plan to spend AT LEAST (GULP) $100.00 for brush and compressor. And I do mean AT LEAST. Then.....practice, practice, practice. You will soon be amazed at the effects you can do, and the pure quality finish you can lay down. You will likely soon decide you cannot live without this wonderful tool! So...buy quality, PRACTICE, have some patience, and perservere. You will soon find yourself doing all kinds of neat stuff you would have never imagined, and will have fun doing it! Happy Airbrushing!
    Carl

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    Right On Carl! I totally agree

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