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Thread: Modeling NKP Rebuilt Boxcars

  1. #21
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    The break was short. Enough supplies arrived for me to resume work on the project.

    I was able to complete the overall body of the B end in a couple of hours. Basically, I had refined the edges of my resin parts and then built up styrene around it. Nothing fancy unless using both CA and styrene cement to get it done counts.

    I should also mention there is a backing plate of 0.005" styrene to give it all more strength. The mating is good all around from my testing (the slight gap in the photos is due to the pieces not being pressed into place).

    My corner post ends are probably a bit too prominent but I can probably remove some material to improve the look. I still need to drill mounting holes for surface details (a combination of Intermountain kit sprue parts and wire) and I am contemplating added rivets, too. I'm still torn over whether to model the cut lever (does anyone ever do this in N scale?), though I have accounted for it by having the lefthand bottom corner plate extend lower as it does on the prototype.

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    Overall, a good work session, I feel. I'm pleased with the results although they are not perfect. I may or may not work more on the project this weekend as the train show's in town. If I do, it will either be going up to roof or down to the underbody next.
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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rwerner View Post
    I'm still torn over whether to model the cut lever (does anyone ever do this in N scale?), though I have accounted for it by having the lefthand bottom corner plate extend lower as it does on the prototype.
    There are n scale cut levers at:
    http://www.midwestmodelrr.com/product/blm0404/
    Currently out of stock unfortunately.

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  5. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scotian_Huntress View Post
    There are n scale cut levers
    I guess my question was more about whether modelers often bother modeling freight car cut levers in N scale. One would think they must since the BLMA part is hard to come by, but I don't recall ever seeing one on a model before.
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    Only got a little work in this weekend. Began fitting the underbody to the car. A metal Micro-Trains piece with a fishbelly underframes was a natural choice. I had to remove a little material from either end to get the length right to fit to the carbody. I also added some styrene lips to the ends so the underbody sits correctly with respect to the carbody. The underbody part is appreciably narrower than the opening in the carbody, but that is good. I will be adding material to fill the gap and take advantage of the little tabs on the side of the underbody piece to allow for the underbody to be snap-on for ease of access for weighting and load placement.

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    This shot also gives an interesting angle to see the side sill details that may not have been clear in some earlier shots.
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  10. #26
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    So, a slow week at the workbench due to unrelated issues.

    A story to bore you but then some glamour shots later.

    After much fiddling, I got my underbody mounted to the car by adding lips to the interior sides. I still need to add a little more material to fully close all gaps, but that's trivial. Less trivially, I body-mounted my couplers using the mounting pad on the Micro-Trains underbody piece. I used 1016 couplers but kept the original trucks after chopping off the truck-mounted coupler box and remounting them reversed.

    I made a mistake along the way by using a drill bit slightly too large (I really need to organize and number my bits to avoid such things) and tapped the hole. Unfortunately, the screw would thread on but not grip. I was fortunate that I was able to thread styrene rod into the hole, redrill the correct hole size, the let the screw thread onto the plastic. The couplers and the necessary shims were in place and all was good, or so I thought.

    I don't recall if it was here or on some other model train forum that I read someone comment that Micro-Trains screws are useless, but now I realize why they said that. I haven't converted most of my freight cars to body-mounted couplers yet and I never had the problem with passenger cars. When body-mounting the couplers at the proper height, you completely obstruct the axles so the car doesn't even sit properly let alone roll properly. Fortunately, I remembered what I did on a different car where I did an extreme ride height adjustment. I returned my MTL 1956 screws to the capsule they came from and got out my Walthers flathead screws to substitute. The Walthers screw would cause the same issue but I crudely countersink the base of the coupler box using a drill bit so the screw sits flush. No more headaches, rolls smoothly.

    On to some shots of the car as it is now. The pieces are not permanently joined yet. Getting close to doing detailing.

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    The doors are custom if you couldn't tell. I'll post more about them later. There is still some work I need to do to complete them.
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  12. #27
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    Looks great. You are a patient and meticulous modeler.
    Looking forward to the final painted model.
    Steve - Jugtown Modeler..............Don't know enough about railroading yet, but scale modeling is my life..............Web-Folio

    The introduction of so powerful an agent as steam to a carriage on wheels will make a great change in the situation of man. -- Thomas Jefferson, 1802


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