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Thread: Homebrew Kato track power wiring

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    Default Homebrew Kato track power wiring

    Is there an easy/cheap/less intrusive way of doing homebrew power wiring to Kato track?

    Thanks



    Jim

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    Here is a good and almost free way of doing it

    http://www.fiferhobby.com/how-to-mak...power-feeders/

    Lots of other good tips and trick tutorials there as well

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by aflica View Post
    Here is a good and almost free way of doing it

    http://www.fiferhobby.com/how-to-mak...power-feeders/

    Lots of other good tips and trick tutorials there as well

    Steve
    I highly recommend reviewing all the info Mike Fifer has up on Unitrack. It will help you get the most out of it.

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    I took Mike Fifer's stuff and tried an experiment using his ideas. Here is what I did and the results.

    In the middle(*) of a spare piece of straight track I took the dremel tool and carved away the plastic under both rails for about 1/8" in both directions from center. I quickly ran a small bead of solder onto the rail. Then I took a red and black #24 wire and soldered them, one to each rail. If this were a permanent layout (which it will be someday) then I'd run the wires through the main board and onto the terminal strip to the DCC power supply. HOwever, since this was a test I took the dremel and cut a small area out and ran the wires out to the power supply. Photos attached.

    (*) Why the middle? Because this technique will work for ANY length of track OR curved track.

    Why are there holes in the plastic? The dremel mill bit was WAY too big for the job, but it was the only one I had. I'll buy one half the size and that should be a little neater.

    IMG_0976.jpgIMG_0977.jpgIMG_0980.jpgIMG_0980.jpgIMG_0979.jpgIMG_0981.jpg

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    I drill tiny holes on the outside of each rail, and a larger hole in the roadbed center underneath them. I then feed the bare, solder-tinned wire leads up through the bottom of the layout in the larger hole in the roadbed, then each lead up through the tiny holes and solder to the outside sides of the rail. Works for me. I also use a light gauge of speaker wire, it seems less obtrusive than red or black wires. I follow my own rule, created for wiring stereos, that the lead with the white stripe OR the lead that has the rough surface is +, and the smooth one or without a stripe is -. I don't know if that's 'correct' but it's my system and works for me.

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    Yea I did it by adding wires to the rail joiners here and there. But it really a shame the manufacturer doesn't have a much better factory engineered way to attach the wiring. The track should have built-in solder tabs underneath for wires. What's the deal Kato?

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    They want you to buy power Unijoiners or feeder tracks.

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    I use the same method as P-line Soo. Very neat way of getting additional feeders.

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