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Thread: Wombats N Scale Structure Builds

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    Default Wombats N Scale Structure Builds

    Hey Guys,

    As said, this thread will be for all of the structures I am building for the N Scale layout. I will be posting progress pictures pretty much step by step (if I remember) including all of the "whoops" moments.

    The first is my DPM Bruce's Bakery:

    I wasn't sure how I was going to go about getting clean edges around the windows while also not finding myself in a position where the coats of white paint built up to ridiculous levels. Te only solution I could come up with was to mask everything around the windows and spray, and that is what I did, although not all that successfully as I seemed to have missed covering a couple of areas.




    Not the best photo (new camera) but this is after the top two windows were sprayed. Looks like a total mess.



    This is the end result. You can see where I missed with the masking tape (Tamiya 1/4" masking tape). The upside is I can touch that up as well as touching up around the sides of the windows where I couldn't/didn't get the tape.



    The wall was removed and washed in warm soapy water, dried for 24 hours then sprayed with a light coat of Krylon Plastic Grey Primer. That was let to sit for another 24 hours before I hand painted 1 coat of Apple Barrel Barn Red using a fairly dry brush.

    The end color will most likely be different and I will go with either Model Master, Tru Color or Badger paints
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"

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    A quick update on where things are at:

    The building above:





    More attention needed on my part when masking - missed another bit

    A new building - Char's Soda Shoppe:



    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"

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    Couldn't sleep last night so did a little more to the buildings:



    It looks lop sided because it isn't attached to the other walls yet. I quickly learnt to put the door/entrance on before attaching the front wall.



    That is the actual color, although I prefer the colors of the previous post of this building.

    The one thing that DOES annoy me is the fact that these kits DO NOT come with decals. Now I need to try to find the appropriate ones for each of the kits I have. What I do know though is, I will NOT be buying decals from damn woodlands.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"

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    They don't come with decals, because the names are just suggestions.

    What makes most DPM kits special, is the unique signage that the builder creates. Thankfully, no more rub-on lettering applied one character at a time. Simple signs can be created in seconds on a computer.

    Many people use the names of friends and family and their favorite things and hobbies as the names of businesses. Of course if recreating a prototype place, serious research might be needed. You can also take the names right from the phone book. That's how I got addresses for the billboards, here...
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/album.php?albumid=744
    If you look at the billboards, you might recognize where the names came from. Also some of the signage is taken straight from movies and television.

    Another place I get ideas for businesses is clip art. The Gatorhole started because of the alligator serving cocktails graphic.

    Of course, you could raid the Internet and steal the names from other model railroaders' layouts.

    When end all else fails, time to break out the puns. DPM did it when naming their multimedia kits.
    Use what you know about the world to model…
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    I might have to steal your Gatorhole idea and graphic. My wife's nickname is tootigator (it's along story and has nothing to with gators per se) but she has a fascination with gators and crocs. So, if you don't mind, I might make one of my "Bars/Taverns" the Gator Pit and use such a graphic.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"

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    Yeah, the DPM windows. I have painstakingly painted them by hand with a tiny brush and scraped off any errors with a sharp toothpick. They end up looking good but it's too nerve wracking.

    Some of my DPMs came with decals or, they may have just been printed on paper and had to be glued on.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    I wasn't sure how I was going to go about getting clean edges around the windows while also not finding myself in a position where the coats of white paint built up to ridiculous levels. Te only solution I could come up with was to mask everything around the windows and spray, and that is what I did, although not all that successfully as I seemed to have missed covering a couple of areas.
    You can reduce bleed by first spraying a coat of clear over the masked edges. That helps seal it. Then do your colors. Try to keep your sprays light enough to dry quickly so it doesn't pool. An airbrush can really help in this regard.

    I've had good luck just holding a mask card over the model while spraying from above. Sometimes there's a little touch-up to do, but it's usually not bad.

    My last masked DPM windows... http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...641#post518641

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    I like the idea of spraying a clear over the masking tape edges before doing the color. I have plenty of Dullcote so I'll give it a try. I have to admit, the Tamiya Masking Tape I am using works very well, although I do run over the edges with my finger nail to make sure it is seated properly. Adding the clear will stop any bleeding at all I think.

    The main issue I have run into is trying to mask around "curves" and was thinking about Liquid Masking Solution/Tape. I may have to mask what I can then do touch ups afterwards. One person suggested using a white glue water mix as a mask. I tried that and it did go on and mask the area I wanted BUT getting it off was a pain and half the paint work came with it so have more "touching up" to do. Was a good thought though.

    Your mortar work came out well also. The biggest issue I have with doing mortar is, no matter how well it is done, seems to always look too heavy so I might fore go that side of the structures.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"

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    Besides clear coat, an overspray of the underlying color is often used to seal the edge of the tape.

    With all the arguments your current paint method is giving, you might try reversing the order you are painting. First paint the details, starting with the innermost layer. Then cover the edges with the next color. And so on. A lot less bother with masking, too.

    It is a variation on how scale figures are painted. On the face the pupils are painted, then the iris, the white and eyebrows/lashes. The mouth and lips are done at the same time. The skin and hair come next. Clothing repeats the pattern with the buttons an buckles being first. The key is that each successive color defines the shape of the one before it. The iris shaping the pupil, the white defining the iris. The skin color shaping the eye.
    Use what you know about the world to model…
    Learn from modeling what you don't know about the real world.



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    Thanks and I will give your method a try. Your suggestion couldn't have come at a better time as I have just re-sprayed the "main" color for the structure that needed to be stripped. Actually, 10 minutes ago would have been better
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChicagoNW View Post

    It is a variation on how scale figures are painted. On the face the pupils are painted, then the iris, the white and eyebrows/lashes. The mouth and lips are done at the same time. The skin and hair come next. Clothing repeats the pattern with the buttons an buckles being first. The key is that each successive color defines the shape of the one before it. The iris shaping the pupil, the white defining the iris. The skin color shaping the eye.
    THAT'S where I've been going wrong painting N scale figures! I've been painting the iris before the pupil......
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    If it comes down to me having to PAINT figures - think I'll out source
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"

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    Back in the day, when I seemed to have patience and more brain cells, I would have sat and figured out better ways to paint DPM windows... but alas, I am now old and stupid and HAND PAINT them........ and it isn't exactly "enjoyable"...
    www.newenglanddepot.net
    But... what if I don't WANT to weather it? Hmmmmmm??

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    I was still relatively young when I first had a DPM structure and there's just no easy way to do the windows. Masking and all that is just as much a pain as hand painting them. I suppose you could make a "portable" mask to move from one window to the next with the inner edges folded in to mask the walls around the window frame but there would still be touch-up necessary, I bet.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    It is a shame that NScaleLimited.com is dead. There were several great pages on painting DPM structures. They were excellent. Some of the high rise kitbashes could have a hundred or more windows. Chris's article first appeared there. But here's the gist.

    Possibly the best method, was to spray the window color first, then using a Chopper, cut styrene stock masks that are inserted into the recesses while the wall color sprayed on. For an almost perfect mask, something soft could be used on the masks, to help them conform to any irregularities. While you wouldn't make masks for an entire tower, it isn't that hard to do a large wall in sections. The many decorative parts molded in make great paint breaks. Most people won't notice the subtle color variations between sessions.
    Use what you know about the world to model…
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    Painting and masking is a pain in the rear that's for sure so want to thank ScotianHuntress for that link - it looks like the way to go for "bulk" painting of windows. Even though having to cut the "masks" may take time initially, the time it will save (hopefully) in the long run will be worth it.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"

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    Remember, the hard metal or styrene masks you make can be reused.

    You only have to make them once unlike masking tape or liquid masks. Which get destroyed when you remove them.
    Use what you know about the world to model…
    Learn from modeling what you don't know about the real world.



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    Chicago,

    The "solid" masks are sounding better and better all the time. I have some .04 styrene coming from evergreen so once I get that, I will make some up, or at least try to.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChicagoNW View Post
    It is a shame that NScaleLimited.com is dead. There were several great pages on painting DPM structures. They were excellent. Some of the high rise kitbashes could have a hundred or more windows. Chris's article first appeared there.
    Here's the original article:

    http://rrmodelcraftsman.com/effective-paint-masks/

    I have posted this in several other locations. I know this seems like a lot of work... but it really is effective. I have done several buildings by hand and several using this method. The difference is startling. If you are painting the windows of a basic DPM structure, use one of the methods listed above. But, if you are painting a Hilltowne Hotel or Wilhelmini's Merchantile, this method works great!
    AT64

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