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Thread: What are you buying this month? (May 2018)

  1. #41
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    could be 20x40 depending on how i eventually finish the basement.

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    My LED's, Resistors and Switches arrived this afternoon and man, are they "small"!

    Warm White SMD LED's:



    SMD Resistors:



    Switches:



    The LED's and Resistors come in a plastic strip with a tape of sorts across them. All you need to do is "pop" them out of the strip. I am very impressed with this company, their service, their packaging everything went very well.

    NOW all I need to do is figure out ow to wire the Resistor to the LED
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    That's how they normally package SMDs from the factory.
    Last edited by kingmeow; 16th May 2018 at 04:39 PM. Reason: spelling

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  6. #44
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    Thanks, I have never bought them before.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Be careful about how you pop them out. Do it over a white towel over a workbench. Don't ask me how I know!

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  9. #46
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    Good advice! They are so small that I will definitely be "popping them out" over a bowl or something.

    One question if I may ... these SMD LED's don't seem to have "legs" so how do you know which is the + and which is the - pole to connect the resistor?
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    Good advice! They are so small that I will definitely be "popping them out" over a bowl or something.

    One question if I may ... these SMD LED's don't seem to have "legs" so how do you know which is the + and which is the - pole to connect the resistor?
    They usually have a dot or a line or some kind of marking near the cathode (negative) side. If you have a multimeter with a diode setting, you can use that to see which is negative and which is positive. Lights up? Then you got the right leads on the right terminal.

    Unless you are forcing a huge voltage through, if you wire it wrong, it just won't light. Flip it and it should be good.

    If you really are not sure, post a really close up, in focus picture and I can take a look.

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  12. #48
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    As a random example, take a look at this picture:

    http://www.ledilluminationlights.com...-lighting.html

    The side with that notched corner is the cathode/negative.

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    I will post as close a picture as I can get later this evening. Your link does help though and hopefully these will also have the diagonal "cut out" on the negative side.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Have tried getting a "clear, close" picture of the LED but have not had any success and do not have a macro lens. I have taken a closer look at the top of the LED though and there seems to be a "notch" taken out of one corner of it. If all SMD's are configured the same, I can only assume that is the negative side.

    It also appears as though the SMD Resistor can be soldered directly to the side of LED as the "terminals" on both fold down the sides of both. Hope that makes sense and my thinking is correct.

    Well, later on I will just try one out and see what happens. As you said, the worse will be the light does not light.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    By the way (for those interested), Micro Trains replacement metal wheelsets have PLASTIC axles...!?!? Really? Yup.
    Radon Gulch & Tortilla Flats Railway - the 'Good Gas' line! - a minor division of the Santa Fe Southern Railway Co. "Dust, gas and a lot of rocky stuff...

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    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    Have tried getting a "clear, close" picture of the LED but have not had any success and do not have a macro lens. I have taken a closer look at the top of the LED though and there seems to be a "notch" taken out of one corner of it. If all SMD's are configured the same, I can only assume that is the negative side.

    It also appears as though the SMD Resistor can be soldered directly to the side of LED as the "terminals" on both fold down the sides of both. Hope that makes sense and my thinking is correct.

    Well, later on I will just try one out and see what happens. As you said, the worse will be the light does not light.
    All your assumptions in this post are correct. I just replied to your soldering thread in General Wiring on soldering these suckers!

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  19. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by drbnc View Post
    By the way (for those interested), Micro Trains replacement metal wheelsets have PLASTIC axles...!?!? Really? Yup.
    Yeah, to insulate the two sides. There are other ways to do it but My chose to do it this way.

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  21. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingmeow View Post
    Yeah, to insulate the two sides. There are other ways to do it but My chose to do it this way.
    I figured that, but for the $$, an insulated axle sleeve on a metal axle would be nice.
    Radon Gulch & Tortilla Flats Railway - the 'Good Gas' line! - a minor division of the Santa Fe Southern Railway Co. "Dust, gas and a lot of rocky stuff...

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  23. #55
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    True, but their forte is in plastic injection molding.

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    Ok, so those of you that know me will see a trend...

    I bought a Peter Witt Bachmann Streetcar... before you think "aren't those DCC?" "they seem kinda expensive for Mac... he seems like a PCC / Brill Streetcar kind of guy", you should see what it looked like...

    s-l500 (1).jpg

    So might have been stepped on, might have a fried decoder, might have zinc rot (just kidding)... anyway, shell is all screwed up but chassis seems to be in great shape. Also runs fine in both directions (although I did not run in enough to check if it overheats -- I will clean and service it first).

    So $8.35 + $4.94 (shipping) seemingly well spent (will need to get a new shell -- $11 for a roof and $22 for shell << that is an expensive shell -- maybe I just need a Tomix streetcar chassis or something).

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    They will buff right out!

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    Mac

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mac View Post
    Ok, so those of you that know me will see a trend...

    I bought a Peter Witt Bachmann Streetcar... before you think "aren't those DCC?" "they seem kinda expensive for Mac... he seems like a PCC / Brill Streetcar kind of guy", you should see what it looked like...

    s-l500 (1).jpg

    So might have been stepped on, might have a fried decoder, might have zinc rot (just kidding)... anyway, shell is all screwed up but chassis seems to be in great shape. Also runs fine in both directions (although I did not run in enough to check if it overheats -- I will clean and service it first).

    So $8.35 + $4.94 (shipping) seemingly well spent (will need to get a new shell -- $11 for a roof and $22 for shell << that is an expensive shell -- maybe I just need a Tomix streetcar chassis or something).

    I bought one of these this month from here https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/bach...oder-equipped/ they are 50 bucks right now new, might get another next month if the price stays down, I am on a budget.
    I hear the train a comin'; it's rollin' 'round the bend

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    N scale is like a wide angle lens. O scale is like a zoom lens. Itís all good. " -Twindad

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    So - the bulk of my large scale sale was settled today and I've had a serious go on the shopping list:

    Canon HF-G40 video camera


    Pan/tilt video head with adjustable "fluid" motion


    Tripods take time to set up properly and steam trains don't wait for that, so I got a monopod.
    Very versatile item, and I'm looking forward to trying it out.


    An external mic for the camera.
    Entry level model that I think outperforms more expensive models in test situations where I could probably find myself.





    And for the MR specific stuff:

    8 pcs ESU LokPilot micro decoders

    One more Tams B-4 booster with associated adjustable power supply unit



    16 pcs Anderson PowerPoles needed after rethinking the wiring of my future modules

    nScale.net: Elsewhere Yard
    nScale.net: AT&SF West Valley Division (abandoned)
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