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Thread: New House - new layout, around the room layout...

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    Default New House - new layout, around the room layout...

    So my wife gave me 2/3 of the basement in our new house
    so I’ve put together an 18’ x 20’ room with heavy and drywall walls

    my question is about attaching benchwork to the walls, the rest of the layout is two peninsula’s forming a funky sort of G pattern

    I’m planning on a 3/4” Baltic birch band around the room, I’d be attaching it to the wall stuffs with 5” deck screws

    this way I can connect the benchwork anywhere I want to the birch strip

    where I need help is suggestions and maybe samples of attachment methods that are compact enough to leave a decent view for a future lower exchange area

    i don’t want to use bulky shelf brackets as they show too much on the lower level

    In a perfect world I could come up with something like an n trak module where I do primary design and scenicing on the workbench and then attach it to the layout where I can finish scenicing and blend in the landscape making it no easily removed...

    matthew

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    I did the "plywood band around the walls" on my old layout as well. I never did come up with an invisible solution for supports... On the narrow walls I made L girders that went all the way across the room, but I still needed stout supports to hold up the layout on the long walls. I used homemade supports made of 1x2's, but that would not solve your problem if you really want a true double decker. It works fine for a single level layout tho. I have a few pictures in my album:

    http://www.nscale.net/forums/album.p...umid=50&page=4

    Have you considered putting a backdrop on the lower level in front of the vertical leg of shelf supports? That should hide the supports just fine, at the cost of only an inch or so... Which on an 18' wide room, who'd miss an inch per side?

    Some would say you don't need much for benchwork in N scale, make it all out of foam and you don't need much support... I say Phooey to that. I want stuff that will survive if I stumble, benchwork that can absorb a door slamming without all the rolling stock falling over! Not sissy stuff that shakes if the dog sneezes.
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    I’m trying real hard to use the painted walls where possible, in the peninsulas I’m going with 1/8” hardboard or something similar

    i went to great lengths to create 3’ wide aisles everywhere, I had to move a wall but I gained almost 9’ which 3’ for each of the 3’ walkways

    i am thinking of going with small but beefy 45 degree braces every 16” or so

    i have a friend who did it, but he planned way ahead and bolted the benchwork supports from the other side of the Baltic birch before he mounted the birch to the studs

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    How wide are your sections of upper level? If they aren't too wide, and constructed with open grid framing, you should be able to just screw them to the wall boards with long construction screws. See the drawing below.

    Upper Level Support.PNG

    Dimensions can be adjusted depending on the layout width. On my layout, the benchwork box is glued and nailed together (I use a pneumatic brad nailer) from 1/2" cabinet grade plywood. Since the upper level is (hopefully) below eye level, as it gets deep, you can make the support deeper without seeing it. My backdrop will be painted on the drywall and scenery will cover the bit of backer board that is above the benchwork.
    Tim Rumph
    Modeling the Southern Railway in N-Scale

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    Thank you for the illustration...

    My primary layer would typically be 12”-18”I generally build with 1x3 or 1x4’s with half inch plywood and 2” foam, bit I’m flexible

    there will be 2’+ areas for rail yards, but I’ll support those with legs

    im not going to have typical narrow high up top levels, it would be more like a middle or primary layer and a lower section for an exchange yard

    matthew

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim R View Post
    How wide are your sections of upper level? If they aren't too wide, and constructed with open grid framing, you should be able to just screw them to the wall boards with long construction screws. See the drawing below.

    Upper Level Support.PNG

    Dimensions can be adjusted depending on the layout width. On my layout, the benchwork box is glued and nailed together (I use a pneumatic brad nailer) from 1/2" cabinet grade plywood. Since the upper level is (hopefully) below eye level, as it gets deep, you can make the support deeper without seeing it. My backdrop will be painted on the drywall and scenery will cover the bit of backer board that is above the benchwork.

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    Congrats on being awarded the new room...

    However, when I bought a new house 2 summers ago, and was awarded possession of a 12x17' room for my layout - I also was 'awarded' enough landscaping and remodeling work that I've hardly touched the room. Hope you are luckier!

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    Thank you

    the neighborhood has a very small HOA fee of under $200 that includes complete lawn mowing and landscaping, then they do complete snow removal including the walkway to your front doir

    i live in central Maine, about 25 minutes
    inland from LL Bean

    we get a lot of snow most years

    But if I look at the project it’s daunting, but I love doing benchwork and electrical wiring so it should be fun!

    matthew
    Quote Originally Posted by Siegmund View Post
    Congrats on being awarded the new room...

    However, when I bought a new house 2 summers ago, and was awarded possession of a 12x17' room for my layout - I also was 'awarded' enough landscaping and remodeling work that I've hardly touched the room. Hope you are luckier!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthewd5 View Post
    the neighborhood has a very small HOA fee of under $200 that includes complete lawn mowing and landscaping
    Nice! Wish we had that with our HOA. But for $400 annually we get bumpkus. Oh, they do keep the commons areas spruced up. Wow. ...
    Paul Schmidt

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    Proud member of the Milwaukee Road Historical Association and the Southern Railway Historical Association

    Check out Appalachian Railroad Modeling!

    Did l mention that I still like the SP&S?

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    Ok so I’ve found out a lot about ways to hang my around the wall section, turns out you can hang up to 300 pounds per stud!

    now I’m working on the height of my main level of my layout...

    42”, 48” etc.

    im pretty sure I’m putting in a helix going down to a lower level at some point, so how much room should I leave below the main level before I try and squeeze in a lower level that’s usable?

    matthew

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    12 -16 inches, depending on what you plan to put on the lower level. Also figure in lighting and upper level wiring and such. So, that would add 3.5 inches if using 1x4 construction for a front valance.

    Keep asking questions. I have no helix, choosing instead to go around the room on a grade. Others here know more about helixes than I do and I am sure they will pipe in here.
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