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Thread: Forgot to order primer with Tru Color paints: Wat do? :P

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    Default Forgot to order primer with Tru Color paints: Wat do? :P

    I recently ordered some Tru Color paints for some projects (DME/ICE Blue and Yellow, and Rock Island Blue). I was not thinking, and I put in the order without any form of primer.

    My questions are:

    I will be painting some cylindrical covered hopers yellow. They are already factory grey (old Bachmann hoppers). Am I going to be able to get away with putting Tru Color's yellow straight on the grey?

    I have an Atlas Alco S2 with Great Northern paint applied. I intend to repaint it to match the locomotive pictured below:

    bTmwl6Q-2.jpgnpc17-2-2.jpg

    Since I can't say one way or another that the colors in the photo are accurate or not, I'm gonna go with Rock Island Blue, and I'll decide if I'm gonna look for another yellow, or just use what I got and use the DME/ICE yellow. My concern is about bleed through of the old paint. if I order primer, I'm sure that'd help, but i'd also be looking at several layers of paint by that point. I think the Atlas Alco S2 has a metal body, though I'm not 100% sure.

    Is there a hardware store brand primer that I might be able to find locally that is compatible with the Tru Color paints, or am I best off just ordering more paint, and including primer this time?
    Or are the Tru Color paints pretty good about not bleeding through and I can just hit them on the shell? I've not done model painting in some 25+ years, so advice is welcome.

    If I wanna go fresh primer or fresh paint coat, what would be the best way to strip the paint off that S2 shell?

    Another thing, is the logo. I was thinking maybe some manner of printable decal, if my printer is good for that degree of quality.
    Maybe it's similar to something out there? Any ideas? Should I have at it with some yellow paint, a needle, and a microscope!

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    Try Color FAQ says it can be painted over another paint ie. primer - just need to test to ensure no crazing. FWIW I have no experience in this.
    http://trucolorpaint.com/about-us/faq/

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    Painting over the factory paint is asking for problems. Even if the colors don’t bleed through, the separation lines will. Because the engines are paid printed, the paint had thickness and you will see the lines at the edges of the paint after you paint over it. Strip it with 70% isopropyl. For primer I like to use Tamiya Fine Grey Primer. It coats well and shows even the smallest details.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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    I prep my models for paint with Tamiya surface primer. I too use Tru-Color.

    I first clean the surface with alcohol - then shoot the primer (rattle can) - then the color coats.

    A couple of examples: - The Daylight car is plastic the RPO is resin.




    Regards,
    Wolf

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    Tru-Color makes a DME/ICE blue and yellow paint. I think the RI blue is too light a color.

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    Definitely strip the "old paint" for the reasons already given. I have found that Tru Color Paint covers very well so you may get away with not priming at all. That being said, I'd go with the Tamiya Fine Gray Primer or Model Master Grey Primer.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    I'll probably try to order the primer. I'll see what is available locally, if I get the ambition to stop at the store after work. If it were going on plastic, like the old Bachmann hoppers, I'd try one primer-less, just to see how it turned out (I have a dozen to do). The Alco S2 though... I'm almost certain Atlas used a metal shell to help load down the weight, due to how small it already is. I'll definitely primer the metal first. No chances, I think.

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    I have used light grey auto primer on metal engines before....buy a name brand like 3M....not for plastic..

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