Re:Decals On Wood ?
Decals are happiest when applied to a smooth, glossy painted surface. Any changes to that formula are going to be less and less satisfactory. Success with decals means a lot of liquid and that doesn't go well with wood, either.
If the world was full of choices I'd just suggest using try transfers. They are great for this sort of application.
However, the world is seldom as we want.
So, here's what I do.
Use one of the two part solutions by Microscale, Badger or Testors. The first part is a wetting solution. After soaking the decal - when it slides on the backing - use a fairly large brush and flood the area where the decal goes. Plop down the decal and use a wet brush to float and prod it into final location. Keep adding solution so that no bit of the decal underside is touching and sticking to wood until the placement is correct. Without touching the decal again, use a bit of toweling or a dry paint brush to sop up the excess fluid.
Leave it alone until it looks dry. Then look under a bright light. You are looking for bubbles. Slit each bubble with an X-Acto blade. Then flood the decal with the second solution. Go away and watch TV. The next morning, take another look and repeat. In the evening, repeat. At some point most of the film will sink into the wood. When you are finally willing to accept the job, let it dry another day. Wash or flood the decal and surrounding area with water to wash out all the glue and setting solutions. Dry another day. Then top coat as needed.
Pretty Good is often the best result in this sort of application. The solutions as well as the top coat will discolor the wood. And, sometimes, the second solution will be too active and bits of the decal will distort. "Silvering" is the least desired result. It happens when the first solution wasn't generous enough and the decal attached to an unwetted surface. With bare wood, this can happen pretty easy. There isn't any fix for this.
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