The frame measures 27' long. You don't have to chop the Kato frame, everything fits right over the trimmed stock length. The water tank fits down tight over the motor to hold it down.
You really can't fit these kits over anything else. One oddball thing I did plan for was for them to be static models if you wanted; just use a piece of styrene and a couple freight trucks under it for a junkyard scene, or a wrecked, rotted loco in the woods. I don't think anybody has done that, but I did try to design it so it would work.
I have a .PDF of the instructions for both kits, runs around 20 pages and about 1.5MB, and if you contact me with your e-mail I'll send them out in advance, for free, because nobody ought to try one of these without knowing what you're in for on a loco this small!
The other good news is that the 'right' log cars for this locomotive - short skeleton flats - are available again. Alan Curtis and I worked together on developing these, and they are now available again:
http://www.nscalekits.com/
See the 25' NS016 logging car kits. Those are the right cars for this loco and this era. Class A's were made right up to the end of Climax production in 1928; this model - the 18 ton, steel-frame, and either a round or square water tank option, woodburning.
Here's one of mine pulling a string of them:
That's on a 7 1/2" radius curve, too, making it look almost normal!


You can see the front of the motor, and the driveshaft near the floor, if you look.
As far as for how they pull, the front powered truck has a friction tire. The more imbalanced you get the weight over the front truck the better it works. On my kits the 'woodpiles' are cast metal weights with one thin layer of split wood on the top. The boiler on the 13-ton vertical is cast metal. On the 18-ton, the entire cab has a removable cast weight stuffed in it.
I've pulled seven 50' boxcars, some pretty heavy, on the flat. The only thing I ask it to pull on the HV layout are short trains of log cars, and it can manage a 4-5 car train, about the same as the prototype, up 4% grades.
I've expirimented, almost successfully, with doing a cast metal boiler on the 18-ton. I never did get one that didn't have holes in it, but I made one that had few enough holes to work for me. If I was doing it over, I think I could do it now. Any further conversion ideas will probably have cast boilers.
Joined: 2007-03-14