General Modeling Techniques

Anyone know if there is a detail part made to simulate the power switch machine located on the side of a real turnout.

I am looking for ideas on how to weather loco's and rolling stock to appear faded.  Does anyone know of a method to lighten up or bleach out the paint ?

Anyone know of where I can find an N Scale Grim Reaper.  I'm sure there are some out there someplace.

 

Thanks

Eric

Deer Lodge, MT

Just thought i would put a few pics of last weeks work. A weathered coni with a new coal load. Didn't get a chance to do anything this weekend as i went away for a break fly fishing.

Ill be back into it tomorrow with a bachman 4-8-2 to weather. Also going to be very busy over the next few months with bunch of laser kits coming to make (bar mills and branchline). I plan to make construction threads and photograph them as i build if anyone is interested.

Anyway the pics.

Just been looking back through Model Railroader from November.

The article on Modeling different types of track mentions silflor MiniNature Prairie Tufts as one of his materials used in ground cover. I wanted to know has anyone used this in n scale? I was thinking it would make the grass look to tall. Also anyone used any other things for Prairie Tufts? I think i need to find something suitable if I'm modeling New England.

 Thanks Adrian

The current MR Newsletter contains this free article which is sub-titled Scrap parts, styrene and wire are all you need. If interested, you may find the article here: Build N scale switch stands

Extruded foam (pink or blue) is terrific for train tables.  Not only is it light weight but it is easy to sculpture and paint.  But it has almost no strength (like wood) if you need to use wood screws.  To solve this, I simply embed pieces of wood into the foam and use a hot glue gun to secure it place.  You can then screw into the wood holding anything you want to the foam.  I've seen many posts for securing switch machines, foam to a plywood base, etc.

I'm looking for N scale ships and boats but there's not to many available. How far out of scale could I go without it being noticed? I found 1/200 and 1/108 scale ships, would these be to out of scale?

Thanks

I expanded my layout this summer by adding another module.  It has an elevated portion that is "S" shaped across the middle of the layout.  I tried to purchase styrene in a stone cut design to place on the sides of the elevated portion but because of the curvature of it couldn't find anything that was flexible to follow the foam sides.  But then I came across Brickyard http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/brickyard.html by Evans Designs and this program did the trick.   The program designers recommended using Alee

I could not find using Google where to buy the following n scale decals for rolling stock: 

1. n scale decals: "Pullman"

2. n scale decals: "Sunoco"

Thanks for any help

What thickness of stock would you suggest I use to print brick, stone, or really any kind of Textures on.

I'll be using an HP Deskjet 6540 color printer to print then.  Then cut them up as needed and glue them to the sides of WS risers and inclines. 

Thanks for any suggestions and advise you folks may have..

See ya

Ron

I want to build a simple interurban line using a Kato RDC.  The track will be about three metres long.  I want it such that the train will begin at one end, stop for a few seconds at intermediate locations, restart until it reaches the end of the line.  After waiting a bit it will reverse and repeat the above operation.

I am virtually electronically illiterate.   What do I need and who makes it?  My electricity source is 220 V AC.

Location(s)

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Hey guys,

I'm a brass virgin, so my newest project is coming along slowly- a wide cab for a diesel loco; but I am very pleased with the results. I've got it all assembled to the plastic shell, all i have left are the handrails.

So I'm almost ready to paint it, but I don't know if there is a special way that is needed to prep it. I will be using Testor's acrylic paints and an airbrush.

 Thanks in advance.

Hi;

I thought people might be interested in my successful (if somewhat scary) hot wire cutting.  Just a bare nichrome wire held under tension, and using fibre tape as a guide for cutting a gradient.

Full details are over on my blog, but here are a couple of pictures:

The layout is coming together quite well.

 

After taking a couple months hiatus from modeling while I got over surgery and lack of energy, I have, again,  begun to address the needs of my layout.  First order of business was the long over-due conversion of an MDC/Athearn Overland combine to resemble B&M's #1111, Air Brake Instruction car.  Feeling good about the results, I went in search of building kits, JL Innovative Design's Brookside Ice House, having been intriquing for some time, became a must.  Thanks to Mike Fifer, I quickly had one to hand and have started it.

I have a variety of engine shells, mostly Kato, and some cars I would like to strip and don't want to fool with the various chemicals out there. My concern is that Kato shells seem to be sensitive to chemicals, and while Chameleon is supposed to be safe and effective, I have read mixed reviews of the product.

Hey, I think I remember reading somewhere that Kato and Atlas couplers are different but that they play nice together.  Is that so?  Just about to buy an Atlas Vo-1000 (UP), a kato PA-1 (DRGW), two Kato 70 ton hoppers (SP), and three Atlas 40' boxcars. (UP).  Just want to know if they'll all get along.

Hello! I am new to this forum, and hope to find many answers to my model railroading questions.
I have been around the hobby for years, but just recently started getting my layout together (actually it is only my 2nd layout).