I've read/have been asked several times recently, how to wire dual color LEDs on the Tortoise Slo-Mo Switch Machines. Well... here's how I do mine, and an electrician I'm not! It's easy, works correctly and consistently, and regardless of what your decoder/throttle/JMRI etc is telling you the status of the turnout is... the "LED" is NEVER wrong, and the others can be. In other words... if the LED is "red", the switch is thrown, PERIOD! If the LED is "green", the turnout is closed, PERIOD! LOL In this first shot, here is one of the Linrose LEDs that I use. I use the 3mm dual red/green LEDs shown, a 1K 1/4 watt resistor, and a short, about 10-12" length of paired, twisted, 20ga solid wire.
https://www.nscale.net/forums/attachm...6&d=1324771704 In this second shot I have cut the LED leads down considerably, as well as the leads on the 1/4 watt 1K Resistor. Notice that I cut the anode leg of the LED long (it comes long to start with, so that it's identifiable) as it is the leg that the resistor (or positive side) is connected to. This is also the point when I "tin" the component ends, just as you do with all wires.
https://www.nscale.net/forums/attachm...7&d=1324771710 In Shot #3, the "tinned" component ends and wires are held tightly in place by clamps for soldering. If you do as shown below, the clips act as heat sinks, and they keep the LED and the Resistor cool during the solder process. Just heat the wire and component lead at the same time with your soldering iron until the solder melts together, then remove the iron and let the connections cool. Rinse and repeat for the other side. If you notice at the bottom of the picture, the wires already have pieces of heat shrink slid over them and away from the soldering area... we don't want them hot yet! (Note: The LED was soldered to the resistor prior to this step, by using two clamps similar to below.)
https://www.nscale.net/forums/attachm...8&d=1324771716 In this 4th shot, the heat shrink has been slid up and heated tight to the wire. Notice that there is a larger diameter piece of heat shrink at the top of the red piece. That's because that's as far as the 1/16" tubing would fit past the resistor, so I just added an extra piece of 1/8" heat shrink to insure good insulation.
https://www.nscale.net/forums/attachm...9&d=1324771723 In Photo #5, this just illustrates that the two LED wires are soldered to the #1 and #8 legs (Power leads) of the Tortoise Machine. Before connecting, set the turnout position to "Closed" and touch the LED wires to #1 and #8 to ensure that it lights "green" in the closed position. If it lights red at this point, simply use the opposite LED wires to correct the problem permanently. Once the orientation has been determined, solder them to the same legs of the Tortoise! This is why the LED NEVER lies... it can't. It's power comes from the stalled power side of the Tortoise, so they always will match as long as power is sent to the machine the same way, every time... that is unless you change the wires. Then it's your fault!!
https://www.nscale.net/forums/attachm...0&d=1324771732 Here it is (for now) in the last shot. This area will be covered by a facia, so the indicator light will be in the mounted fasia near the trunout. But for now... it's stays attached to the layout with a thumbtack!!! HAHA!!!
https://www.nscale.net/forums/attachm...1&d=1324771740 And there it is folks... the simplest, most flawless Tortoise LED indicator light I've come up with so far. It works great, and really is an easy project. If soldering is scaring you away, just get some scraps and practice... it doesn't have to look like it came from a factory, but with a little practice... it will start to quickly!! Happy Holidays All here on NSN!!! Matt
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