• Wiring a DPDT switch with a Tortoise and 2 LED

    by
    Janbouli
    Published on 15th Jan 2015 07:43 PM
    13 Comments Comments
    Someone asked me how I wired my DPDT switches to my Tortoises so the LED's on my control panel would change the lighted color. This is my attempt at a tutorial.

    You will need , a DPDT switch On-On , 2 LED's 1 red 1 green is what I use, a piece of heat shrink tube and 3 colors of wire.
    http://www.janbouli.com/images/DCC_electro/atort1.jpg

    Start by soldering 2 short wires to the top 2 connections on the switch.
    http://www.janbouli.com/images/DCC_electro/atort2.jpg

    Next 2 somewhat longer wires to the middle connections, it doesn't matter if you use other colors but connect them the same way as I did.
    http://www.janbouli.com/images/DCC_electro/atort3.jpg

    Next cross over the 2 short wires diagonally and solder them.
    http://www.janbouli.com/images/DCC_electro/atort4.jpg

    Now solder 2 longer wires to the connectors you just crossed over to, making sure the long wire is connected to the corner that has the same color as the middle wire.
    http://www.janbouli.com/images/DCC_electro/atort5.jpg

    Make sure the long wire is connected to the corner that has the same color as the middle wire. The switch is now wired.
    http://www.janbouli.com/images/DCC_electro/atort6.jpg

    Let's start with the LED's . I take a piece of wire in a third color for the next step. Push a piece of heat shrink tube over the wire and solder the wire to the long leg of the green led, see http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/...iring-leds.htm
    http://www.janbouli.com/images/DCC_electro/atort7.jpg

    Solder the same wire to the short leg of the Red LED
    http://www.janbouli.com/images/DCC_electro/atort8.jpg

    Cut the wire and mount both in a terminal block.
    http://www.janbouli.com/images/DCC_electro/atort9.jpg

    Now solder 2 wires to the other legs of the LED, notice I used the blue wires, because these will be connected to the blue wire on the tortoise. Mount these in the other terminal of the terminal block.
    http://www.janbouli.com/images/DCC_electro/atort10.jpg
    Comments 13 Comments
    1. Janbouli's Avatar
      Janbouli - 15th Jan 2015, 07:54 PM
      Okay , someone made an article out of this , I made 9 or 10 the other day without the LED's for now .
    1. aflica's Avatar
      aflica - 15th Jan 2015, 07:57 PM
      See , your a published author !!
      Its a good and clear written tutorial Jan , nicely done

      Steve
    1. tattoo_714's Avatar
      tattoo_714 - 18th Jan 2015, 08:51 PM
      if you do not want 2 holes, a single bi-pole led would work also
    1. Janbouli's Avatar
      Janbouli - 18th Jan 2015, 09:11 PM
      Quote Originally Posted by tattoo_714 View Post
      if you do not want 2 holes, a single bi-pole led would work also
      I'm looking into that , I'd still want 2 holes , but with bi-color LED I would have open green and shut red , and this of course change when I switched the turnout.
    1. surgpsych's Avatar
      surgpsych - 19th Jan 2015, 04:16 PM
      Yes, that is how I wire mine. Two red/green bipolar LED's that turn opposite colors when switched. Gives nice effect when you can see the mainline is lit up green in the direction you want and the feeders are red...and vice versa of course! Great post.
    1. Janbouli's Avatar
      Janbouli - 19th Jan 2015, 07:37 PM
      Quote Originally Posted by surgpsych View Post
      Yes, that is how I wire mine. Two red/green bipolar LED's that turn opposite colors when switched. Gives nice effect when you can see the mainline is lit up green in the direction you want and the feeders are red...and vice versa of course! Great post.
      I won't have to add extra wires will I , the plus and minus take care of the color , am I right?
    1. surgpsych's Avatar
      surgpsych - 20th Jan 2015, 10:25 AM
      Correct. The direction of voltage will determine color. And if your lights are hooked up directly to the tortoise switch, there is no need for resistors. If you need one, I can post a picture diagram I use for hook up.
    1. Janbouli's Avatar
      Janbouli - 20th Jan 2015, 02:24 PM
      Post the diagram please , I think I know it , but it would be a good addition to this thread.
    1. surgpsych's Avatar
      surgpsych - 21st Jan 2015, 12:45 AM
      Sorry, just read this while laying in bed. Made a quick sketch. Hope it helps. Let me know if you need a video post.
    1. Janbouli's Avatar
      Janbouli - 21st Jan 2015, 03:53 AM
      Is the wire connected to 5 the one that goes to the powered frog to change polarity? You see I use a separate power supply for the Tortoises/ Cobalts , not the track-bus.
    1. surgpsych's Avatar
      surgpsych - 21st Jan 2015, 10:06 AM
      I guess it could. I actually use spot #4 for the powered frog. The voltage does not have to come from the track bus, just as long as the positive and negative lines are flowing in the right direction from your power adapter. There are different ways to power these things. Here is the link I use for a basic review.
      http://www.dccspecialties.com/produc...switches_2.png
    1. Janbouli's Avatar
      Janbouli - 21st Jan 2015, 09:04 PM
      No , I meant to move the switch rod I use a separate power supply 9v DC, for the frog polarity I do use the track bus.
    1. surgpsych's Avatar
      surgpsych - 31st Jan 2015, 03:54 PM
      Here is a link for a video of exactly what I do above. This video is done by chuck baker.

      http://youtu.be/NO2tDVWiUIo