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Thread: Track cleaning, Linn Westcott, and No-Ox

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    Any cleaning solution should remove all traces of the NO-OX carrier, but not the NO-OX treatment of the rails.
    Charter member of CAMRRA.

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    Ok im understanding what you guys are saying about how it somehow penetrates the rail . So if a guy had some (which i do ) could he apply it , maybe a little heavy or a lot , let it sit for a few days , and then clean it off with a cleaning solution and be good to go ?
    Im just trying to wrap my head around why if it comes off with a cleaning of the rails , is it so critical in the application phase to not use too much . This is why i have had a jar for 4 years and never used it

    Steve

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    Make sure to follow the instructions in the first post of this thread, Steve. I can't emphasize that enough. It's the best way to get the best results. You don't need to smear the No-Ox on; just a thin film will do.

    In the application phase, putting on a lot of No-Ox isn't going to be beneficial when you're running your locomotives around. Too much of a good thing!

    And you don't need to clean it of with a solution. A clean, lint-free cloth will do. Keep rubbing until there is no more black coming off the rail head

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Schmidt View Post
    And I'm using white spirits to clean the wheels, not the rails.
    Paul, when you say "white spirits", I'm thinking vodka and gin. I'm pretty sure you're a bourbon guy.

    So what white spirits are you using to clean your wheels?

    -Paul

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    One last question for our No-Ox experts before I begin to apply it to my layout:

    In the original instructions posted by Gary60s (wow - almost 9 years ago!), it suggests first cleaning the track with a mild abrasive (e.g. BriteBoy) and then doing a final cleaning with alcohol (I assume isopropyl). However, given the recent discussion of the MRH article on polar vs. non-polar solvents, should I use mineral spirits or WD-40 contact cleaner instead of alcohol?

    I assume that any of these volatile solvents will just evaporate quickly and not interfere with the effect of the No-Ox on the rail, but has anyone done it that way? If everyone has had good luck using alcohol before the No-Ox, perhaps I will follow that path - and leave the WD-40 for cleaning after the No-Ox is applied.

    Thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Dan

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    Quote Originally Posted by pwh70 View Post
    Paul, when you say "white spirits", I'm thinking vodka and gin. I'm pretty sure you're a bourbon guy.

    So what white spirits are you using to clean your wheels?

    -Paul
    I'm a gin and tonic guy, too, and I enjoy a good rye.

    White spirits is another name for mineral spirits. I just happened to have a clean jar of AK Interactive on the work bench. I might have said it was Pactra earlier. But AK it is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by danb View Post
    One last question for our No-Ox experts before I begin to apply it to my layout:

    In the original instructions posted by Gary60s (wow - almost 9 years ago!), it suggests first cleaning the track with a mild abrasive (e.g. BriteBoy) and then doing a final cleaning with alcohol (I assume isopropyl). However, given the recent discussion of the MRH article on polar vs. non-polar solvents, should I use mineral spirits or WD-40 contact cleaner instead of alcohol?

    I assume that any of these volatile solvents will just evaporate quickly and not interfere with the effect of the No-Ox on the rail, but has anyone done it that way? If everyone has had good luck using alcohol before the No-Ox, perhaps I will follow that path - and leave the WD-40 for cleaning after the No-Ox is applied.

    Thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Dan
    I skipped step 2. Cleaned the rail well with a Brite Boy, vacuumed, and applied No-Ox.

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    quick question - did I miss where you mentioned graphite wipes?

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    I spent all Saturday morning cleaning track, Biteboy then alcohol, then carefully applying the No-Ox as described in the first post in this thread. Ran all non-traction tire locos for about 90 minutes each. Today, I wiped down track after 24 hours. There was definitely a black residue.

    I am already very impressed. My best running locos (Katos and a few Atlas) were still perfect, but a pair of BLI Alco PAs that were always stalling ran nearly as well as the Katos. Another pair of quirky BLI F units also ran very well. If it stays this way, I’ll have to find something else to take up the time I had spent endlessly cleaning track!

    Thanks to Linn Westcott and to Gary60s for the advice.

    Dan

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    It's been three weeks since I stopped using isopropyl rubbing alcohol to clean wheels and switched to mineral spirits. Nary a stutter on my No-Ox treated track.

    Seems I was undoing all the good with polar IRA.

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    I completed the cleaning/NO-OX routine (as described by Gary at the beginning of this thread) this week on my mainline, and cleaned one of the two yards tonight. Then ran some trains and took a few pics, posted in my layout thread here. Very very happy with the results so far!! @gary60s , in regards to the "two hours of running" after NO-OX'ing the tracks.... that's easy to do on a mainline, but what about in a yard or a spur? Is the goal of the continuous running to get NO-OX on the loco wheels, or to "burn" the product into the track? Kind of hard to run continuous for any amount of time, back and forth in a yard..

    -Paul

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    When I applied the No-Ox, I didn’t run my trains multiple times through the yards, only on the mainline. Yet, now I am able to back an engine into some of the yard tracks without stalling for the very first time. I’m sold on No-Ox so far.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pwh70 View Post
    ...in regards to the "two hours of running" after NO-OX'ing the tracks.... that's easy to do on a mainline, but what about in a yard or a spur? Is the goal of the continuous running to get NO-OX on the loco wheels, or to "burn" the product into the track? Kind of hard to run continuous for any amount of time, back and forth in a yard..

    -Paul
    You can find a metal wheel rolling stock truck, place it on your yard track and just use your finger and push it back and forth. Obviously you are not going to do that for two hours but certaianly it's easiler than using a loco and a throttle. And you can do it much quicker since you don't need to toggle a switch to go reverse.

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    btw,

    just got my july 2019 MRR

    looks like Jim Kelly over at MRR doesn't read MRH. Jim uses alcohol to clean his loco wheels.

    Heh, whom do you believe???

    just throwing more gasoline on the fire...
    Yours,

    Gene

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    Quote Originally Posted by epumph View Post
    gasoline
    You use what to clean your wheels/track?

    Just kidding of course.
    Bronman - "Trains and Legos... you can't have too many of them."

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    I use the No-Ox on my track as well and is working great. I also use it on my lighted Kato passenger cars and the flickering has stopped. I also used a dab on my antenna on my Dodge truck and all my other Mopars and it greatly increased my reception especially on the AM side for the Cubs games.

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    Quote Originally Posted by S ARR T 8 View Post
    I use the No-Ox on my track as well and is working great. I also use it on my lighted Kato passenger cars and the flickering has stopped. I also used a dab on my antenna on my Dodge truck and all my other Mopars and it greatly increased my reception especially on the AM side for the Cubs games.
    That's one thing Special A ID is for, antenna connectors!

    Unfortunately, it will not help with Mariners' games.

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    Just made the sweep by the Cardinals a lot clearer here. Cubbies on a 6 game skid think they could use some No-Ox on their bats and bullpen.

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    btw,

    just got my july 2019 MRR

    looks like Jim Kelly over at MRR doesn't read MRH. Jim uses alcohol to clean his loco wheels.

    Heh, whom do you believe???

    just throwing more gasoline on the fire...

    ...Imagine that...

    I read it on the internet, therefore I know it's true.

    sheesh....

    Polar vs. non Polar ...YFKM

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    Quote Originally Posted by donzi View Post
    ...Imagine that...

    I read it on the internet, therefore I know it's true.

    sheesh....

    Polar vs. non Polar ...YFKM
    Quote Originally Posted by epumph View Post
    btw,

    just got my july 2019 MRR

    looks like Jim Kelly over at MRR doesn't read MRH. Jim uses alcohol to clean his loco wheels.

    Heh, whom do you believe???

    just throwing more gasoline on the fire...
    For the masochist further research may be required.

    My experience with no-ox was bad, was it because I put too much on? TWICE?? I doubt it the second time when I specifically and very carefully followed Gary's instructions.

    Perhaps it was because I used Alcohol to clean my track some time after application.... If I'm understanding previous posts maybe I shouldn't have used IPA on the track anymore.

    Someday if I ever get back into the hobby maybe I'll try the No-ox on a small micro-layout and see what happens without using IPA.

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