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Thread: Track cleaning, Linn Westcott, and No-Ox

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Barry View Post
    Darn Bigsparky65, I was just about to score some NO OX. Does it wreck the tractions because folks run them to soon?

    It won't allow me to copy and paste what he wote on the othe site. He wrote out steps on what to do. Maybe i can get Gary to post them here.


    Sparky(Jeff)

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    It appears that several have missed the fact that the 1st post in this thread includes the revised directions. Here is the pertinent excerpt:

    All contaminants such as plaster, glue, or oil, should be removed prior to No-Ox application. The steps below are all VERY important and none should be skipped.
    1. Use a mild abrasive such as fine sandpaper or a brite boy on all rails to remove any oxidation.
    2. Wipe all rails with a rag and alcohol to remove any dirt and fine particles.
    3. Vacuum all rails to ensure cleanliness.
    4. Put very thin smears on your finger and rub it on your rails. The total amount of NO-OX-ID “A SPECIAL” that should be applied to 500’ of N scale track is about ¼ teaspoon. If you can SEE No-Ox on rails, you are putting TOO MUCH on! DO NOT APPLY MORE!
    5. Run all your locomotives, EXCEPT ONES WITH TRACTION TIRES, (no rolling stock yet) over all of your track for at least 2 hours. You may notice some wheel slippage and skipping, (DO NOT PANIC) this ensures that all wheels get treated with No-Ox.
    6. Remove all locomotives from track and wipe all rails with a clean rag to remove any excess product. Don’t scrub, just rub.
    7. Wait 24 hours.
    8. Wipe rails again. Rag will be black.
    9. For locos with traction tires, turn them upside down, connect track power so that wheels turn. Put a small dab of No-Ox on a Q-tip and apply to all wheels that DON’T have traction tires. While wheels are still turning, use a clean Q-tip to remove any excess No-Ox.
    10. Run trains and forget about cleaning your track except for occasional light vacuuming.

    THE ABOVE 10 STEPS WERE REVISED 6-10 TO ADDRESS TRACTION TIRE ISSUES AND ARE NOT INCLUDED IN BAR MILLS DIRECTIONS.

    If you still have a slippage problem, you may have too much on loco wheels. Clean off excess with a clean rag or Q-tip. You don’t want the rails slippery. What you are looking for is an almost MICROSCOPIC layer that will replace the insulating oxide coating with a long lasting conductive rail.
    Last edited by gary60s; 4th Aug 2010 at 07:13 PM.

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  4. #23
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    BTW...No-Ox WILL NOT wreck traction tires. They may come off, if revised application directions are not followed, but cleaning them with a q tip will allow you to reinstall them.

    I can not stress enough, the importance of following the application directions to the letter.
    Charter member of CAMRRA.

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    Gary, thanks for the contribution... great stuff.

    Is it just me, or does there seem to be a step 5 missing?... or should it be 10 steps with steps 5-9 added?
    Bryan
    “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” ~ Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519)

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    See Bryan? Thats what I get for not READING my own directions...lol When transferring lists from MSOffice I get that sometimes. There are only 10 steps...they are all there...just not numbered right. Will correct numbers ASAP. Thanks for pointing it out!

    OK...corrected.

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    ok I did the process this way, I first used a briteboy, then did the alcohol on a rag and finnally ran my dirt devil over the main lines, then I aplied the NO-OX...I think I might have went a bit heavy with it. I waited 24 hrs after running all my locos, (I chose to remove the traction drive and replace them with the regular drives to ensure every loco got a coat. ) I am still pulling up some black after i wait a day and re-wipe the rails, is this due to over application?
    after running a couple locos I notice quite a build up of no-ox on the bototom for them, on the wheels a some of the fuel tanks, ( I said I put on a heavy coat)...perhapes I just need to spend some extra time cleaning wheels and track? I have one mainline that is no running mostly slip free, but the other spins a slips some, and is still yielding some black, so I assume I just need to keep at it for a couple days, and clean up the locos....right???

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    Yes, it sounds like you over did it a bit.

    But, the sealing and protection process is probably complete.

    NO-OX is a 'little dab'll do ya' product.

    ....and yes, you will have to keep cleaning the track and the wheels until they wipe clean.
    (The voices I hear in my head may not be real, but sometimes they come up with a good idea.)

    Have fun.

    Moose

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    ok that is what I was figguring, I just got in a bit of a hurry, trying to fit this in between loads to the east coast and back. in trucking business sort of comes in waves, so you ride the wave as long as you can till it or you dies down. I just figgured it would alos do some good to post this, "BOO - BOO" in case another were to make my mistake , or be worried of that mistakes concequenses, prior t6o attempting this, he or she could make a better educated decision.

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    I just got my jar of NO OX in the mail. Questions, Would it be ok to go ahead and treat my rails before most scenery and ballast goes down? My reasoning is if the product is as good as it says, clean up should be easy as pie, right? Plus I plan on covering my track while working in that particular area. One of the reasons I want to go ahead and treat it is I have a few atlas locomotives that run fairly poorly on the rails unless I lead them on with the brite boy.

    Or should I wait until all construction is complete? (which we all know with a model railroad is NEVER).

    Be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.



    Ron

    For now, innocent bystander and occasional commentator

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    Ron,

    Maybe Gary60s can confirm, but I think it would be fine as long as you don't use any abrasive to clean up after scenery. No=Ox primarily stops oxidation which does not make it repel plaster, paint or dirt.... so if you have to scrub something off and remove the top layer, you would nee to reapply the No-Ox.

    Am I right Gary60s?
    Sean McC

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    who has friends." -- Clarence

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    I would go ahead and do it.

    Masking the track work while doing messy stuff is a given in any case.
    (The voices I hear in my head may not be real, but sometimes they come up with a good idea.)

    Have fun.

    Moose

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    Moose nailed it. No-Ox is a "little dab'l do ya" product. We're talking microscopic coating here. The key is: IF YOU CAN SEE NO-OX GOING ON, YOU ARE USING TOO MUCH.

    The active ingredient in No-Ox is the rust inhibitor, which PENETRATES the rail. This is what makes it work, and for a long time. It WILL NOT rub off with a rag, but more vigorous cleaning with an abrasive may remove some of the rail, and therefor, some of the protection.

    If No-Ox was in a liquid form, like it was in the '70s, there would be no need for the carrier (the stuff that looks like grease) of the rust inhibitor. The carrier will dissipate with time and cleaning, but a heavier than necessary application will require more cleaning and more time for the carrier to dissipate.

    In my case, and with the majority of the testimonials I received, scenery and ballasting was completed before application, but no one has complained, that did the application first.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gary60s View Post
    If No-Ox was in a liquid form, like it was in the '70s, there would be no need for the carrier (the stuff that looks like grease) of the rust inhibitor.
    For this reason Caig Labs DeoxIT, (mentioned in the thread Preventing oxidation on track), which is available in a liquid form as well as paste, seems to be a better alternative (the pen dispenser seems particularly suited to model railroad track). I've already invested in what is probably a lifetime supply of No-Ox, but I just thought I'd point this out for anyone still investigating alternatives.

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    Just ordered a d100 pen to see how it compares.
    Sean McC

    "No man is a failure ...

    who has friends." -- Clarence

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    Sean, even a staunch supporter, like myself, of No-Ox and what it does for track, is always looking for ANY alternative that works as well, and is easier. I will be looking forward to your results. I just sent a lengthy email to Caig for more technical information.

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    Gary... I will let ya know what I find out. I appreciate your unbiased attitude.
    Sean McC

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    who has friends." -- Clarence

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    Quote Originally Posted by seanm View Post
    Gary... I will let ya know what I find out. I appreciate your unbiased attitude.
    I agree... an unbiased approach to an open discussion on a given subject allows us all to learn... just because one partakes in such a discussion does not mean you have to change your proven/preferred ways.

    Everyone will have (or draw) their own opinion in the end, but the providing of unbiased information is going to give everyone the best chance of finding what is truly best for them and their circumstance.

    Thanks guys.
    Bryan
    “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” ~ Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519)

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    I am off the next two days. I plan on treating my rails. Question, I am almost half way through going over my rails with a brite boy. I am going to finish this step tonight. Will it be too long to wait until the morning to do the other steps? I am more leaning towards doing it tonight due to I don't want to give my rails ANY chance of oxidizing. So, should I treat and run locomotives tonight? or would it be ok to wait until the morning?

    Be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.



    Ron

    For now, innocent bystander and occasional commentator

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    In the morning will be fine.

    Once the No-OX is applied and has set for a day or so, it has to be wiped down until it wipes clean.

    That will remove the residual oxides.
    (The voices I hear in my head may not be real, but sometimes they come up with a good idea.)

    Have fun.

    Moose

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    Ok, here is a little lesson learned. I applied my NO OX this morning. I applied what I THOUGHT was very little! Once applied I started running engines. I ran one of my more favorite engines first and realized that even though I thought I had put very little on, it was building up on the undercarriage. So, my lesson is this, run your least favorite locomotive first! even though I am sure the stuff will come off easy enough, I just don't like seeing the gunk built up on it! It really isn't as bad as I am making it sound but I it is unsightly. The further I got into my roster the better it got, and they even started running smoother fairly quickly! (within a couple hours) I am headed back to clean the tracks per step 6.

    this situation also begs another question, If it does build up, what is the best way to clean the undercarriage and gearboxes?

    Be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.



    Ron

    For now, innocent bystander and occasional commentator

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