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Thread: working on my downtown Charlotte ADM oNetrak module

  1. #1
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    Default working on my downtown Charlotte ADM oNetrak module

    Played around today with some cornerstone modulars and the downtown Charlotte ADM module.





    Cardboard stand in for the I277 overpass.



    Here is the real thing.

    Ryan B.

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    Couple more shots of the real thing

    Crossing under the highway



    Looking southish



    West

    Ryan B.

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    That's going to be an interesting model, and you've done a good job with the selective compression. Keep us updated on the progress, OK?
    Never mistake a guy who talks a lot for a guy who has something to say...

    CH&FR Site and Blog: http://www.chfrrailroad.net and http://blog.chfrrailroad.net
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    As TD said, Please keep us updated. What you have shown us so far is very interesting and I for one want to see your progress and the completion.

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    That's sure gonna be a great corner module when you get it finished Ryan. It would be nice if you had access to a lathe or a 90 deg. disk sander to finish off those silos. I have built a couple of these elevators in O scale and sanded them by hand. What a frustration that was. It will hopefully be easier in N. Too bad all the interesting track work will be hidden under the highway, but that's how it is in real life. Nice oppertunity for signals, especially the one facing outward on the branch running off the front edge. Wiring it to be constantly RED will be easy. I saw some plastic latice work beams in N scale by Plastruct yesterday at my LOH. It looks identical to what you will need running over the tracks between the elevators. You might have to splice them together, but if you use a solid piece of, maybe welding rod or carbon fiber down the center, the latice could be glued to it. There's a couple of companies like Gold Medal Models that make photo etched brass pieces also. How much of a challenge do you want? Looking forward to the progress and keep the pictures coming.

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    I just had another thought about those unusual shaped support posts under the highway. You might check in the lighting dept. next time you're at the hardware store. See if they have a broken light diffuser panel that has the little 1/2" squares. These panels are 2' x 4' x 1/2" thick. You could slice off a section that's about 1/8" thick and trim it down to the right overall size. Or you could make a jig and use Evergreen Styrene. If the rest of the modules are anything like yours, you've got a beautiful set up. Maybe you could get some pictures at your next get together for all of us to see. Thanks Ryan

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    TY for the kind words. Yes he overpass covers some neat stuff but it is how it is. I glued the silos to the thick sheet styrene and then rotozipped it off to get the rough contour. The leveling will occur on the bottom and I am going to use a belt sander. Will be dusty but it will do the job nicely. The diffuser panel idea is something to think about. I know what you are talking about and it looks similar enough to maybe do the job. But that is the fun of this. I have just been buying many different sizes of plastic tube and beam stock when I have been to the LHS and will really have some fun when the piping and conduit work starts. But the next little bit to evolve will be the highway. I put some foam on the module to be the overpass abutment and measured out the length I needed the overpass to be. 22 inches at it's longest.
    Ryan B.

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    Hello

    Got to sneak away to the dungeon a bit and did some work on the highway bridge for my ADM crossing module. I am modeling a specific place but since it is a oNetrack module I am compressing by feel the different items that are going to be modeled. The real highway overpass is 4 lanes in each direction with breakdown lanes. That scales out to about 8 and a half inches. That would be a bit overpowering on the module. When looking at the options for downsizing it I noticed that Plastruct sheets come in 7 x 12 inches. 7 inches makes a bridge 3 lanes in each direction with decent shoulders. I started with Evergreen dimensions and had decided that 6 inches was simply too narrow. I was going to have to use 4 of their sheets spliced together to get a width I would be happy with. That was going to be some work. Luckily my local Hobbytown carries both brands and the Plastruct dimensions worked out much better. Two sheets of 7x12 .080 for the deck of the bridge. After measuring a couple things using a Con-Cor autorack for clearance checking I have settled on 3 inches in height for the bridge supports. These are in real life 4 foot thick cast in place concrete. In module land they are going to be two sheets of .080 glued together and cut out using a router and a pattern of some sort. Coming up with that pattern is the next step. Here is where the Evergreen sheet size makes that call easy. Their sheets are 6 inches wide so each sheet gives me one 3x12 bridge support. The Beams on the underside are 3/16 I beams. Here are some pics.









    Ryan B.

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    Looking good!
    - - There's a fine line between genius and insanity. I like to use that line as a jump rope. ... (unknown)

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    got the first rough bridge support looking close enough to be photographed.



    Ryan B.

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    Well with this weekend being the birthday extravaganza for my youngest's fifth birthday not a whole lot was achieved. I made the bridge abutment and downslope cover and continued to attach the I beams to the underside.

    Ryan B.

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    Great Work! That's an interesting part of town to model. Looks like you got some good shots to work from. Good looking Southern line up of engines and cars too.
    Mark

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    Moved some things around and have two modules hooked up and running.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRvZFvqsckQ
    Ryan B.

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    Runnin' long hood forward. Looking good!
    Mark

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    it grows

    Ryan B.

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    Ryan, I am wondering how you keep the PVC together? I am going to use it for grain silos at my brewery and have been thinking a lot about how to keep them together. I will have 2 rows of 3 silos. Any suggestions?
    Yours,

    Gene

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    Your modules are coming along nicely and will give you a little opertunity for banging a couple of cars around when you're finished. You certainly have a lot of patients to cut out that bridge support. Looks good Ryan, keep the pictures coming.

    Excuse me for crowding in here Ryan........ Gene, I used sheet metal screws on the top and bottom of each tube after drilling pilot holes. Was little easier with 4" tubes on my O scale layout. The same principle can be used in any scale if you scale down the size of the hardware. I think I would use a small machine screws in N scale. A friend glued his HO tubes together with PVC cement and then created a fillet between all the tubes. He laid the tubes on their side and taped a cardboard dam across the top and bottom of the tubes. Then he poured in a soupy mix of hydrocal and allowed it to self level. A little light sanding before painting was required. It looks very real. Another option would be to cut a cover for all the tubes on the top and bottom. Make this out of styrene and glue all the tubes to these. Sanding the ends of the tubes perfectly square was a real pita and I never did get mine as well as I would have liked. A disc sander would work the best I think. Please share your ideas here. This is something that surely must have an easy solution.

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    This is really shaping up to be a nice scene, Ryan. Loved the alligator clip power supply on the video. And yeah, that Southern engine looks sharp!
    Never mistake a guy who talks a lot for a guy who has something to say...

    CH&FR Site and Blog: http://www.chfrrailroad.net and http://blog.chfrrailroad.net
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    @TD You know when you want to run a train you do what you have to do.

    @Gene I just glued mine together with construction adhesive. After that dried I took a belt sander to the top and bottom to even them up. They were supposed to be temporary stand ins until I found what I really wanted to use. The top is just .080 styrene glued on and edge trimmed with a dremel type tool. Painted with off white rattle can plastic paint. That will suffice until the rest of the structures get further along. Probably a few years at least. This will eventually be transported around and set up and taken down so it has to be tough as well.

    @Michael The bridge support, when I finally made the decision to cut it out was a lot of work, but I made a pattern for the dremel to be used as a router and it went fairly quickly after that.
    Ryan B.

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    What did you use to glue the styrene to the PVC? plastic glue or construction adhesive in a tube?
    Yours,

    Gene

    Turtle Creek Industrial RR

    Link to my Flickr account: https://www.flickr.com/photos/epumph/

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