Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 41

Thread: Fall Layout Party: Winchester Engine Servicing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cincy-whatzit, Ohio
    Posts
    6,614
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks
    8,823
    Thanked 7,923 Times in 3,529 Posts
    Mentioned
    196 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Fall Layout Party: Winchester Engine Servicing

    Here is my project for the 2011 Fall Layout Party: the engine servicing facilities at Winchester. For a long time, this has just been a bare section of plywood; I haven't even laid track because I figured that my enginehouse would dictate track locations. I want to have actual pits between the rails, so that means I have to build track into the structure foundation, thus I need to complete that prior to laying other track. And I needed to lay the other track before I could extend ballast any further, or scenery, etc. So now that Boyce Junction is close to completion, I figured it is time to get over this hump!



    All that bare plywood has been serving as a makeshift workbench up until now. There's quite a bit of space there, but I think I will stick with the plan to have three tracks total, spaced fairly wide. The cork ends in front of some shims because I have used HO cork for my mainline, and the shims will allow a transition to N cork for the remainder. Part of the project may also be to install the fascia here, but I'll be happy if I just get the enginehouse built, and tracks laid. Anything beyond that is gravy.



    You can see my drawn-on centerlines, very faint, showing that two tracks will be parallel and go into an enginehouse closer to the curving main line, while the third track will be right at the layout edge. I might change this a bit, so that stored engines on track 3 are not in danger of plummeting into the abyss, but I need to determine my enginehouse footprint first. The joint between plywood is a section joint; the layout is built in benchwork sections so that it can be moved and reassembled, should the need arise. I don't need to respect these joints with scenery or buildings, so it is likely that my sheds will sit across this joint.



    This shot shows the track centerlines a bit better. It is likely that the centerlines will end up a bit closer than this, and if so the I might consider splicing in one more spur, perhaps for fuel delivery with a single tank car being spotted.



    By the end of this month, I won't be able to take this shot, because there'll be a big building in front of this train! Behind the train there are still some areas where I need to plant some trees, but I'm taking a break from that scenery work to focus on the bare plywood foreground.



    I picked up this kit as a starting point for my enginehouse kitbash. It's a well designed kit that produces stalls on 10-degree angles, but of course I'm intending to do parallel stalls. This means I have to straighten out a roundhouse... which looks feasible, at least. I actually did consider using it as designed, since I technically can fit the three stall roundhouse in the space I have, and I could model a turntable as if it were filled in and regular turnouts laid over top of it, to sort of retrofit the roundhouse for diesels. But I decided to stick with my initial plan, which is to consider that the turntable would have been off-layout, in the aisle space, with a much larger roundhouse. My line started buying diesels early in the 40's while still running steam, so they would have had to build diesel facilities prior to retiring the steam terminal. Now, in 1971, only the diesel shops are needed, so that's all I am modeling.



    Here's the issue: I have to straighten out the floor sections! I think it can be done, but it may result in swapping front to back on the enginehouse. I also might decide to lose a bay or two off the length of the building. The roof will have to be cut from scratch, since the kit's roof is angled too, but otherwise I think it will be fairly easy to kitbash a "straighthouse" from this roundhouse.

    Stay tuned, I'll keep ya updated here!

    Get yourself a Rail Pass for free travel on the WP&P: wpandp.com
    Could Star Wars: The Last Jedi have been a smarter movie with just one tweak? wpandp.com/how-an-interdictor-could-have-fixed-the-last-jedi/

  2. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to WP&P For This Useful Post:


  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Plantation, Florida, USA
    Posts
    5,599
    Blog Entries
    95
    Thanks
    977
    Thanked 2,043 Times in 1,078 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Truly looking forward to seeing this develop! I just love engine servicing areas!

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Minot, ND
    Posts
    3,022
    Blog Entries
    14
    Thanks
    6,102
    Thanked 3,730 Times in 1,195 Posts
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    As do I. I really like to see how others set them up. Looking forward to your progress!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    6,127
    Blog Entries
    6
    Thanks
    1,957
    Thanked 3,821 Times in 1,628 Posts
    Mentioned
    12 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Interesting project. You have a great layout there - lots of room for development!
    - - There's a fine line between genius and insanity. I like to use that line as a jump rope. ... (unknown)

    Come visit my Layout Build Thread - http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...l-Build-Thread

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    High Desert of Southern Calif
    Posts
    2,374
    Thanks
    1,696
    Thanked 552 Times in 315 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I’m looking forward to this because I also have a round house to build next year.
    JohnnyB

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    16,786
    Blog Entries
    16
    Thanks
    4,630
    Thanked 12,859 Times in 5,373 Posts
    Mentioned
    229 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I'm curious to see how this kitbash unfolds. Definitely something new here!
    Never mistake a guy who talks a lot for a guy who has something to say...

    CH&FR Site and Blog: http://www.chfrrailroad.net and http://blog.chfrrailroad.net
    Appalachian Railroad Technology: http://www.apprailtech.com


  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cincy-whatzit, Ohio
    Posts
    6,614
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks
    8,823
    Thanked 7,923 Times in 3,529 Posts
    Mentioned
    196 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Okay, so I'm finally getting around to updating this thread. This first weekend I focused on getting the floor slab done, as this is the part requiring the most bashing. To straighten out the pie-wedge shape, I basically cut the sides off at 1/2 the angle. Then, by flipping them around, I reattached them and ended up with a rectangular floor. The track centers work out to 2-1/4" which is pretty close to what I had drawn in on the plywood (it's a bit closer). This first photo shows it prior to painting, showing the joints clearly.

    enginehouse4838.JPG

    Next up was painting this; I tried to sand it down to hide the joints, but I didn't do a perfect job of aligning the top surfaces, so I couldn't get rid of the joint lines entirely. My hope was that my "gritty paint" method of concrete painting would hide the joints better, and I think it did; I'm willing to live with the results. The "gritty paint" I refer to is thinned acrylics into which I mix some joint compound. I painted two coats of thicker mix (more joint compound) first, then sanded it all down again, and finally another two coats of thinner mix (less joint compound). Of course this all took time, which is why I wasn't able to photograph and post about it until now. Anyways, here's the finished product:

    enginehouse4851.JPG
    enginehouse4853.JPG

    There are slots where rails are supposed to go; I've painted some old rails that I reclaimed off of some Atlas code 80 flex. I looked at code 55 (which I'm using elsewhere) and it might work, but it looked like the top of the rail would just be flush with the floor. That would make it tough to clean the rails without marring the floor. So I'm gonna have just about a half inch of rail sticking out the end and transition to code 55 at that point. I think in terms of scenery, I'm likely to bury the ties in the ground here, so it won't really matter much.

    While waiting for paint to dry, I also worked on the back wall, which had to be cobbled from the three back wall sections included in the roundhouse kit. As it turned out, by cutting the vertical panels off of three ends, and then using two single window sections, I was able to get a just-right-size wall panel. In the photo below, on top is the remnants of the third panel, and you can see where the vertical panels was cut off its end. The other two panels were cut down to just one window with its surround, and their end vertical panels of brick recovered. I glued in the vertical panels with a minor projection so that they kind of resemble the pilasters that are on the side walls, and so that the vertical joint makes some sense.

    enginehouse4841.JPG

    That's all I have photographic evidence for right now; what I'm doing this week is painting the parts prior to assembly. I'm gonna go with a tan/cream brick color to help differentiate it from the roundhouse that it began life as. Windows and doors have been painted an olive green color.

    Get yourself a Rail Pass for free travel on the WP&P: wpandp.com
    Could Star Wars: The Last Jedi have been a smarter movie with just one tweak? wpandp.com/how-an-interdictor-could-have-fixed-the-last-jedi/

  9. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to WP&P For This Useful Post:


  10. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ashland Oregon
    Posts
    4,746
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks
    4,122
    Thanked 3,921 Times in 1,879 Posts
    Mentioned
    23 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Engineering any kit-bash is always the hardest part of the job. Your thought process and logical reasoning is truly going to make this an outstanding model. Thanks for all the great photos. I really like the way your mainline flows around past the tower. Looks very realistic to me.

  11. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cincy-whatzit, Ohio
    Posts
    6,614
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks
    8,823
    Thanked 7,923 Times in 3,529 Posts
    Mentioned
    196 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Tonight I got the rails laid down into the grooves and soldered on a few inches of code 55 to make the transition to the code 80, using the crimped rail joiner method. Next up is gonna be a lot of painting of walls and other parts.

    enginehouse4857.JPG

    Get yourself a Rail Pass for free travel on the WP&P: wpandp.com
    Could Star Wars: The Last Jedi have been a smarter movie with just one tweak? wpandp.com/how-an-interdictor-could-have-fixed-the-last-jedi/

  12. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Minot, ND
    Posts
    3,022
    Blog Entries
    14
    Thanks
    6,102
    Thanked 3,730 Times in 1,195 Posts
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Everything is coming along nicely. I'm looking forward to seeing this come together. What rail joiners did you use to make the connection between the two size rails?

  13. #11
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cincy-whatzit, Ohio
    Posts
    6,614
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks
    8,823
    Thanked 7,923 Times in 3,529 Posts
    Mentioned
    196 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Code 80 joiner, slip onto code 80 rail & solder in place, then crimp the other half flat and solder on the code 55 on top of this tab. Height works out almost perfect!

    Get yourself a Rail Pass for free travel on the WP&P: wpandp.com
    Could Star Wars: The Last Jedi have been a smarter movie with just one tweak? wpandp.com/how-an-interdictor-could-have-fixed-the-last-jedi/

  14. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to WP&P For This Useful Post:


  15. #12
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cincy-whatzit, Ohio
    Posts
    6,614
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks
    8,823
    Thanked 7,923 Times in 3,529 Posts
    Mentioned
    196 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Okay, so here's what little I have for an update. Seems like things have bogged down a bit this past week, as I took the time to paint the major wall sections prior to assembly. For the windows, I decided not to use the clear plastic the kit includes for glazing, because I would be able to see that thick panel from behind when looking inside the engine house. So instead I did the glazing trick whereby a thinned acrylic gloss is stretched over like a soap bubble. This proved to be more than a bit frustrating, as a third of the panes would "burst" rather than cure as a solid pane, so I had to keep going over them, letting them dry in between coats. With all the windows in this kit, that was a lot of repeated coatings, but eventually I did get all of them, and I layered on enough coats so that the panes won't break in the future. There is a product custom formulated for making window glazing in this method, and maybe I might get better results with it - I imagine it's got optimized surface tension whereas my thinned gloss gel was of varying consistency depending on how much water I mixed in (I mixed it fresh for each coat). Still, I had the gloss gel on hand, and I made it work.

    I wanted a tan brick as a means to hide the roundhouse origin a little better, plus I think it makes it look a bit more like a structure erected in 1945 or so. The windows and doors are an olive green that didn't photograph well, it looks rather dark; I might weather everything a bit to lighten things once it's all assembled.

    enginehouse4931.JPG

    Next up is to fabricate the front wall, which includes the two doors, and then turn my attention to the interior bracing and framing. I bought some wide-flange steel beam stock so that I can make up a crane frame that will be freestanding inside. However, I'll be out of town this weekend so it might be a while before I get to show more good stuff!

    Get yourself a Rail Pass for free travel on the WP&P: wpandp.com
    Could Star Wars: The Last Jedi have been a smarter movie with just one tweak? wpandp.com/how-an-interdictor-could-have-fixed-the-last-jedi/

  16. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to WP&P For This Useful Post:


  17. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    High Desert of Southern Calif
    Posts
    2,374
    Thanks
    1,696
    Thanked 552 Times in 315 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Looks good! I also wanted a light brown or tan on mine, but couldn’t quite achieve it. It looks like you got it.
    JohnnyB

  18. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    6,127
    Blog Entries
    6
    Thanks
    1,957
    Thanked 3,821 Times in 1,628 Posts
    Mentioned
    12 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    This is all coming together nicely! I really like the way you made the floor work out.
    - - There's a fine line between genius and insanity. I like to use that line as a jump rope. ... (unknown)

    Come visit my Layout Build Thread - http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...l-Build-Thread

  19. #15
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cincy-whatzit, Ohio
    Posts
    6,614
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks
    8,823
    Thanked 7,923 Times in 3,529 Posts
    Mentioned
    196 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I missed out on last weekend as I was out of town, so this weekend is my chance to get caught up if possible. I'll post photos once I have some more, but just a quick update now to say that I am assembling the walls, and need to scratchbuild the roof. I'm gonna place a few steel cross beams that the kit doesn't include, but I know that no roof is gonna span 25 feet without a fairly major set of purlins. One thing I've wondered about is interior details. I might need to leave a roof panel or two loose until I get some stuff to go inside. Does anybody have suggestions for what the interior of a diesel engine house should look like?

    Get yourself a Rail Pass for free travel on the WP&P: wpandp.com
    Could Star Wars: The Last Jedi have been a smarter movie with just one tweak? wpandp.com/how-an-interdictor-could-have-fixed-the-last-jedi/

  20. #16
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cincy-whatzit, Ohio
    Posts
    6,614
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks
    8,823
    Thanked 7,923 Times in 3,529 Posts
    Mentioned
    196 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I finally have some photos to post! I took these this weekend, though I've made more progress since then. But you can see how this structure is coming together.

    I wanted a gantry crane within the shop, but all the kits that are out there seem to be for much larger facilities. I just need something to lift an engine chassis off the rails. I decided to scratchbuild, thinking that I could get away with just basic shapes to suggest it. Since it will only be seen through windows or open doors, the lack of detail won't be a detriment. I used some Evergreen styrene I-beam and H-column material, and then cut out the yellow shapes from thin sheet (actually part of a "For Sale" sign that has been my styrene supply for a while now) that was then slapped onto either side of a thick rectangular section. I'm not bothering with the actual hooks or cables that should also exist; it's just this top portion that is really gonna show through the clerestory windows.

    I went ahead and glued the doors in the open position. The kit has dimples in the floor that allow the doors to actually hinge, but since I rearranged the floor geometry I no longer had proper alignment of the holes in the floor. The end wall includes some sections of metal siding since I didn't have enough brick to do the whole wall. I do have brick sheet by others, but its pattern is not a good enough match. The brick below the window sill actually came from the rear wall sections that were cut out when I formed my new rear wall. The windows above the brick are Tichy castings, while the transom windows above the doors come molded into the door frame in the kit; the pane size was a good match. The tracks have some styrene glued under it with some lengths of sprues under that; I glued those on because the track that was hanging out there in the breeze had some twist to it, and I wanted to force it flat. I don't want an engine rocking over onto its side as it enters the stall! When ballasted, the ties will be pretty much buried so none of this will be visible.

    I think I'm gonna try to leave the roof panels loose, at least one of them, just in case. What I am working on now are some mechanical ventilation units that will sit on the rooftop and duct in through the clerestory. I'll use the kits exhaust stacks for their intended purpose; I'm just figuring that they would need some help to clear out the diesel fumes. Safety first!

    enginehouse4941.JPG
    enginehouse4943.JPG

    Get yourself a Rail Pass for free travel on the WP&P: wpandp.com
    Could Star Wars: The Last Jedi have been a smarter movie with just one tweak? wpandp.com/how-an-interdictor-could-have-fixed-the-last-jedi/

  21. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to WP&P For This Useful Post:


  22. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    High Desert of Southern Calif
    Posts
    2,374
    Thanks
    1,696
    Thanked 552 Times in 315 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I love the crane idea. I just received some I-beams and large channel for my car shop, but didn’t really know how to make the yellow cross pieces to look strong enough. I think I might have to borrow your idea.

    LOOKS GREAT!
    JohnnyB

  23. The Following User Says Thank You to Sleeper For This Useful Post:


  24. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    6,127
    Blog Entries
    6
    Thanks
    1,957
    Thanked 3,821 Times in 1,628 Posts
    Mentioned
    12 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Looks really good.
    - - There's a fine line between genius and insanity. I like to use that line as a jump rope. ... (unknown)

    Come visit my Layout Build Thread - http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...l-Build-Thread

  25. The Following User Says Thank You to musicman For This Useful Post:


  26. #19
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cincy-whatzit, Ohio
    Posts
    6,614
    Blog Entries
    3
    Thanks
    8,823
    Thanked 7,923 Times in 3,529 Posts
    Mentioned
    196 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Well I'm not sure where the turtles all went, but I'm still partying here!

    I haven't had as much time as I hoped to put finishing touches to things, but here is an update. The engine house itself is assembled, and now I am ready to lay the track and bring the scenery up to the foundation line. I have a sanding tower to add to the scene eventually, maybe sometime before Christmas, who knows...

    Actually I do have one other feature to add to the building: gutters and downspouts. I just haven't settled on what to use for this; I have some square styrene stock that I can use, but it doesn't have the channel that a real gutter would. Also, I might want to generate some building signage and post it above the side door(s), or in the middle panel of the front.





    At the moment, the back roof panel is loose, so I can get to the interior if I need to. The stacks are also "loose" in that they are press fit onto a sprue piece inserted through a hole, sorta like an ear ring through a punctured ear lobe. This lets them lean a bit, so I guess I'm gonna have to glue these to keep them upright. Incidentally, I was pleased to see that the inner diameter of the stacks was exactly the same as the sprues leftover in the kit, allowing me to make this mechanical connection.



    I made up some mechanical ventilation units for the front roof, figuring that diesel exhaust would be treated a bit more seriously as a hazard. Any time the diesels operate indoors, these kick on to force air changes. I made them by scavenging from some old Bachmann GP-50 shells that I had once used for their high noses; you may recognized the radiator fan. The rest of the box shape is just plain styrene.



    So this is how it sits in the scene. I tried a few variations in its placement; there are multiple options. But I think I like my original plan best.



    You can see how close the track spacing came out to my original intentions, based on the pencil lines on the plywood. I've got room for possibly one more track in there, I'm not sure if I should add one or just let the scene "breathe". I think the sanding tower will go right in front of the engine house, and I'll add a wash rack in there adjacent to the rear/left track. The track that runs along the front edge/right side will go back to an unloading location with a large fuel tank of some type.

    Anybody have any other suggestions for what ought to go into the scene?

    Get yourself a Rail Pass for free travel on the WP&P: wpandp.com
    Could Star Wars: The Last Jedi have been a smarter movie with just one tweak? wpandp.com/how-an-interdictor-could-have-fixed-the-last-jedi/

  27. The Following 9 Users Say Thank You to WP&P For This Useful Post:


  28. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    High Desert of Southern Calif
    Posts
    2,374
    Thanks
    1,696
    Thanked 552 Times in 315 Posts
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Wow do I like those mechanical ventilation units, oh yes I want those. And the roof wow that really looks great. OMG you have done an absolutely great job.
    JohnnyB

  29. The Following User Says Thank You to Sleeper For This Useful Post:


Similar Threads

  1. Any Interest in a Fall Layout Party?
    By NDJim in forum General Rail Discussion
    Replies: 86
    Last Post: 5th Nov 2011, 11:44 AM
  2. 2011 Fall Layout Party
    By NDJim in forum General Rail Discussion
    Replies: 129
    Last Post: 1st Nov 2011, 01:44 PM
  3. Fall/Winter 2010 Layout Party
    By seanm in forum Layouts, Design, & Planning.
    Replies: 47
    Last Post: 12th Dec 2010, 07:35 PM
  4. Fall/Winter Layout Party K&L industry
    By j edgar in forum Trackage
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12th Dec 2010, 05:10 PM
  5. Replies: 27
    Last Post: 17th Nov 2010, 07:51 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •