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Thread: Help with Kato F3 and MRC sound decoder

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    Default Help with Kato F3 and MRC sound decoder

    I have installed an MRC sound decoder in my Kato F3, but I have a problem. The sound works just fine. The engine sounds run up and down with throttle settings and bell, horn, brakes work fine. The problem is, the motor doesn't run. Here is a photo. I'm hoping that maybe this is a common problem and someone can point me in the right direction.

    Thanks!
    Mark
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    You might have the CV for acceleration set too high, I read , I think in one of the manuals or online that it could take up to a minute to get moving if this CV is set wrong.
    Note: I can't find this article at the this time, it could be another CV , I found it when I had the same issue so google and I hope you find it.
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    I think the problem is the decoder contacts and the motor contacts do not have sufficient pressure on them to maintain proper contact. Ensure you have kapton tape on the long copper wheel contacts where the motor contacts will meet the decoder contacts, other wise "Poof" no more decoder. You will also need to ensure that the small grey clip that holds the decoder and the motor contacts in place is not loose, and the piece of tape you have holding the contacts now, replace with kapton tape and get it really tight. If this doesn't work, then you will need to solder the motor contacts to the decoder contacts.

    The problem you describe is common with the F series and the P series where they have the long copper wheel contacts on top of the chassis.

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    Thank you Realwally. I'll get out the magnifier and Kapton tape.

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    As a follow up, put the loco onto the program track and ensure that the manufacturer's number (143) shows up and the decoder number, otherwise if the connections are not right, you will get "Cannot read CVs". Prior to putting on main track you can also test the loco using a 9volt battery and hooking the wires up to the contacts to ensure the motor spins.

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    I make sure to fold the motor tabs so the cling to the board. The Grey clip should grab int the chassis not the board for solid contact. Putting tape on both ends will help increase contact pressure. Don't cover the speaker.
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