Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Compatibility of various container manufacturers

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bruceville Texas
    Posts
    126
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 64 Times in 21 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Compatibility of various container manufacturers

    Greetings dudes,
    I am looking at getting my first intermodal set

    http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Kato-...at-1066166.htm

    i see that Kato containers have magnets onboard, do any other makers do something similar?
    do the magnets hold together well enough in operation? even the top container?

    i have a nice spot on my layout where i could run a spur and put a small container freight facility. i was thinking one set of well cars, a couple small loaders and a couple trucks parked nearby.
    if i get the above linked set, it comes with matching containers, but it would be cool to get some other shipping names and mix-n-match.
    Nutcase - in - Chief of the Flying Plank RR (est. 2012)
    out of scale, out of money, out of my mind
    www.kaechler.org

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,028
    Thanks
    1,300
    Thanked 2,903 Times in 1,016 Posts
    Mentioned
    34 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jkaechler View Post
    Greetings dudes,
    I am looking at getting my first intermodal set

    http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Kato-...at-1066166.htm

    i see that Kato containers have magnets onboard, do any other makers do something similar?
    do the magnets hold together well enough in operation? even the top container?

    i have a nice spot on my layout where i could run a spur and put a small container freight facility. i was thinking one set of well cars, a couple small loaders and a couple trucks parked nearby.
    if i get the above linked set, it comes with matching containers, but it would be cool to get some other shipping names and mix-n-match.
    I have containers from DeLuxe, Walthers and Kato. They all work well together. I use putty (aka container glue) to hold them together, unless I'm stacking two Katos or two Walthers (Waltherses?) together.

    Kato is the only one that makes magnetic containers, but if you buy neodyminum magnets in bulk for cheap on eBay, and put a strip of paper (roughtly the dimensions of the container interior) with a pair of magnets on each side at each end inside your Walthers/DI/ConCor/MTL containers, you can have magnetic containers!

    Metro Red Ln (Metro Red Line)
    Under the streets of Los Angeles

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bruceville Texas
    Posts
    126
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 64 Times in 21 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MetroRedLn View Post
    I have containers from DeLuxe, Walthers and Kato. They all work well together. I use putty (aka container glue) to hold them together, unless I'm stacking two Katos or two Walthers (Waltherses?) together.

    Kato is the only one that makes magnetic containers, but if you buy neodyminum magnets in bulk for cheap on eBay, and put a strip of paper (roughtly the dimensions of the container interior) with a pair of magnets on each side at each end inside your Walthers/DI/ConCor/MTL containers, you can have magnetic containers!
    you can open them?
    and do you glue a magnet into each container and leave it there?
    little magnets are cheap, thats a great idea.
    Nutcase - in - Chief of the Flying Plank RR (est. 2012)
    out of scale, out of money, out of my mind
    www.kaechler.org

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,028
    Thanks
    1,300
    Thanked 2,903 Times in 1,016 Posts
    Mentioned
    34 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jkaechler View Post
    you can open them?
    and do you glue a magnet into each container and leave it there?
    little magnets are cheap, thats a great idea.
    Yes, you can open them. Turn a Walthers or DI container upside down (Use a small flathead jeweler's screwdriver wedged between the black container floor and the main shell) and pry it open from the middle of the container.

    The Katos, if you have any interest in opening them, open from the top. The roof of the container is what pops out.


    You can glue them, but you have to make sure the polarities match when you install them. By using the paper strip method (someone on another forum invented it a few years ago), it doesn't matter which polarity you install them in, the right polarity will find its way and flip the paper strip over accordingly.

    Metro Red Ln (Metro Red Line)
    Under the streets of Los Angeles

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to MetroRedLn For This Useful Post:


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bruceville Texas
    Posts
    126
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 64 Times in 21 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MetroRedLn View Post
    You can glue them, but you have to make sure the polarities match when you install them. By using the paper strip method (someone on another forum invented it a few years ago), it doesn't matter which polarity you install them in, the right polarity will find its way and flip the paper strip over accordingly.
    the paper size matches the interior of the container, and the magnets are glued to the paper (with matching polarity) and lay loose in the base of the container?
    Nutcase - in - Chief of the Flying Plank RR (est. 2012)
    out of scale, out of money, out of my mind
    www.kaechler.org

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,028
    Thanks
    1,300
    Thanked 2,903 Times in 1,016 Posts
    Mentioned
    34 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jkaechler View Post
    the paper size matches the interior of the container, and the magnets are glued to the paper (with matching polarity) and lay loose in the base of the container?
    The magnets don't have to be glued together, they can just be held together by magnetism:

    + <-magnet magnet->+
    ------------paper-----------
    - <-magnet magnet-> -

    The paper can be slightly smaller than the container floor, so it can fit in easily and flip over, but not so small that it can slide around.

    Metro Red Ln (Metro Red Line)
    Under the streets of Los Angeles

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    90
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    13
    Thanked 55 Times in 25 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Oh I've had lots of fun with this over the last few days

    Containers from Kato, Walthers, and DI. Here are my impressions:

    - Kato's are arguably the best engineered, especially if you are putting thing in Kato well cars. The magnets work well, but you have to be careful not to try to push together opposite polarities. If you do, one of the magnets will release (typically the bottom) and immediately stick to the other (typically the top). Fortunately, they are super easy to open and fixing the situation took about 30 seconds. I love the magnets - coupled with discreet pins, it is a simple, foolproof way of connecting containers.

    - Walthers are better than I thought. No magnets, but they do have small pins, and are easy to connect. The 40' versions actually fit better in the Kato Maxi-I's than the extra Kato containers I bought (the ones that came with the cars fit perfectly - very odd).

    - DI's has a great variety of containers liveries; lots of names that no one has even attempted. The container glue/putty solution for connecting is mediocre at best. Yes, you can stick any container to any container across vendors, but I still thin it's a step behind the magnets employed by Kato. But... they look incredibly awesome !!!!

    Fit is an exercise in Zen. I have to assume that DI containers fit in DI well cars without issue (I could be wrong here) but apparently 1:160 is not the same across all vendors. Consider the following:

    - Kato Maxi-I's accept the 40' containers they come with very well. They also fit the 40 inch Walther's almost perfectly. The 40' DI containers are a little tight, but the fit is still good enough that no witchcraft is necessary to get them in place. However, the aftermarket Kato containers I bough separately are very tight and require a deft touch and patience to get them loaded.

    - Kato Maxi-IV's fit the pre-supplied containers AND the Kato branded 'aftermarket' containers perfectly. Walther's 40's seem to fit OK width-wise for an uneven stack. DI's 53 footers are tight enough that if you are not real careful, container removal will end in an education on how Kato well cars are assembled. (Hint: heat is your friend.... see below)

    - I don't even want to think about the 45's and 48's; too many permutations!

    I like the idea of adding magnets to other container brands - I may have to try this shortly. As mentioned, the container 'glue' is a universal solution that works across all vendors, but don't squeeze them together too hard - a little dab will absolutely do ya'. The other thing to remember is that a little heat from a hair dryer will lossen up the cars so that tight containers suddenly slide right in. I didn't believe it until I saw it with my own eyes, but it really does work. Remember - "hair dryer", NOT "heat gun". You can have a lot of fun with heat guns and plastic but not on your model railroad

    Please don't think I'm bitter - I was running tripple stacks earlier today for giggles - it's all good. I wish things were a little more precise and standardized, but you can find ways to make any of them work. Warning: the insanity will set in such that even with an assortment of containers, you will start to fret about prototype. I have spent at least a couple hours getting the right mix in my well cars so that they look like something that just rolled out of the yard. After a while I just snapped and ROYGBIV'd them for an interesting rainbow presentation

  9. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to thestumper For This Useful Post:


  10. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    200
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 22 Times in 12 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I use the magnet method mentioned above metro and has worked great over the years. If you want copy of the how to I saved it as a word document so just pm me with your e-mail address and I can send it off. As for the kato stuff I have removed the magnets and steel plates as they are useless and cause more issues with the other magnet design specially on the 53's containers. Also what I've found is with the magnet on the lower container it can pick up debris off the layout and that can cause issues as well. I had one container pick up a track nail and caused a major derailment when it caught a on something and then wedged under the frame of the car and caused everything to jump and derail behind it.

    Also with all the containers I trim off the locating nubs as not all container MFG's line up to each other. But with the magnet method it's extremely strong and they don't move.

  11. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bruceville Texas
    Posts
    126
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 64 Times in 21 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mavrick0 View Post
    Also what I've found is with the magnet on the lower container it can pick up debris off the layout and that can cause issues as well. I had one container pick up a track nail and caused a major derailment when it caught a on something and then wedged under the frame of the car and caused everything to jump and derail behind it.
    i bet that was interesting.
    Nutcase - in - Chief of the Flying Plank RR (est. 2012)
    out of scale, out of money, out of my mind
    www.kaechler.org

  12. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA, USA
    Posts
    3,028
    Thanks
    1,300
    Thanked 2,903 Times in 1,016 Posts
    Mentioned
    34 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jkaechler View Post
    i bet that was interesting.

    Solution: Don't use track nails!

    Metro Red Ln (Metro Red Line)
    Under the streets of Los Angeles

  13. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Northern NJ, USA
    Posts
    141
    Thanks
    66
    Thanked 98 Times in 49 Posts
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    +1 on the "paper tape" and magnet strips. I also put a single twist in the paper. I use a "better" grade of paper a few steps up from the cheap laser/copier stuff.

  14. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    219
    Thanks
    1,144
    Thanked 318 Times in 121 Posts
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Sorry to revive an old thread but I think other's might find value in it. I currently have not found the time or space for a layout so I vicariously live through all of the talented folks on here (Thanks to all, btw, for sharing with us!). In any case, on to my point. All I currently have been able to do is start collecting locos and freight cars. Since my eventual 'plan' is for modern UP, I have been steadily collecting well/spine cars from Walthers, DI, BLMA, and Roundhouse. However, these cars are without containers, so I'm wondering the best way to fill these up with nice containers that won't break the bank. Cardstock containers look to be the cheapest solution but I'm hoping for a slight step up from that detail wise. I see generic plastic containers on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/N-Scale-48-f...YAAMXQGqJRGDU~ but honestly I'm not even sure of the sizes. For example, do you always put 53' containers in 53' cars, 48' in 48', etc.?

    So.. for the experience folks out there, what do you do for your cars.. looking for brand/length of car and containers used. As always, pictures are extra credit!

Similar Threads

  1. Manufacturers List
    By MooseID in forum General Rail Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 17th Feb 2011, 07:24 PM
  2. Decoder compatibility?
    By Jeff in forum DCC
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 16th Jun 2008, 05:25 PM
  3. Mixing Manufacturers
    By Agatheron in forum DCC
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 7th Mar 2007, 05:38 PM
  4. are any manufacturers public?
    By BikerDad in forum General Rail Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 23rd Feb 2007, 05:25 AM
  5. N scale Container Compatibility??
    By Ianscape in forum Intermodal
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 6th Oct 2004, 02:40 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •