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Thread: Free-moN Ontario Midland Railroad

  1. #21
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    You sound like you know your subject very intimately. What a great prototype to model, particularly in the Free-moN format.

    Between you, MC and a few others, I am getting that itch to try this....
    Steve - Jugtown Modeler..............Don't know enough about railroading yet, but scale modeling is my life..............Web-Folio

    The introduction of so powerful an agent as steam to a carriage on wheels will make a great change in the situation of man. -- Thomas Jefferson, 1802


  2. #22
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    No Andrew I assumed it was Newark NJ! sorry
    Yours,

    Gene

    Turtle Creek Industrial RR

    Link to my Flickr account: https://www.flickr.com/photos/epumph/

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    Steve, please do! The more of us there are, the faster we can get the ball rolling!

    Anyone out there had a module where the point end of a turnout had to be really close to a joint between modules? This particular turnout was supposed to be over a joint, but I think I'll be able to shorten it enough to get it about an inch back from the edge. I was just going to move everything down a few inches, but that puts another turnout over the another joint. I'm trying to keep the modules all the same size for ease of transport. The turnout will definitely be built with all PCB ties. (Think rugged)
    Any input?
    Andrew

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    I design all my modules in Anyrail before I ever cut lumber. I figure out where each turnout will be and adjust the trackplan early. All my modules are 6'3" long, so I know what I have to work with ahead of time. A little planning saves a lot of sanity in the long run.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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    Karl, you are right there! I actually did know this was coming, but chose to stick to the prototype's plan as close as possible. The reason I did not change the module lengths was that I wanted them 4' long for: 1) so they fit in my car, 2) so that they stack for ease of transportation.

    I'm thinking it should work, but was wondering if anyone has had problems with a similar arrangement.

    Thanks!
    Andrew

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    I really wish there was a freemoN group in my city, all I've got is a small n-trak group.

  7. #27
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    Is the turnout going to be near a module joint (endplate) or a section joint?
    Module: complete scene made up of any number of sections but with standarized endplates at the far ends
    Section: unit of a module that mates with other sections to create a complete module (section endplates do not have to be standarized)

    Either way, having the throwbar near an endplate presents problem for turnout control: Bullfrogs or Tortoises or whatnot need a little space to fit, and that 3/4" birch already moves your throwbar in at least 1".
    If it's the frog-side of the turnout that's near a section joint, then you can actually have it over the joint and cut it.
    I'd built the turnout on the bench, placing about 3-4 PC board ties on either side of where the joint will be (needs to be at least a few ties above the movable section of the point rails), clamp the two sections together, Gorilla Glue the turnout over the joint and when cured and secure use a very thin Dedeco cutting disk on the Dremel to cut uber-thin gaps right over the joint.
    I'm assuming you're using alignment pins to keep the sections mating up perfectly.

    If you're not comfortable cutting across the meat of a turnout, then back the turnout up so that the section joint is a few ties past the frog, like I did for this section of our Wye Knott return loop module:



    Hope I understood yr situation and hope this helps.

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  9. #28
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    M.C., thanks for the input! My turnouts are the opposite direction of yours, but if you can do it at one end of a turnout, it should work on the other end. I was worried about derailment issues coming off the points and having a gap immediately after, and vise versa, but it seems if it's built well enough, it should work.

    Thanks,
    Andrew

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    I have had some turnouts get close to the joint. I cut holes in advance so I could tighten the screw on the tortoise. It's not a pig deal, I cut a matching hole in the other module and used it to run my wires through.

    Quote Originally Posted by baronjutter View Post
    I really wish there was a freemoN group in my city, all I've got is a small n-trak group.
    Build a module and start a FreemoN group! You can drive down and join us all in Portland in 2015!
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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  12. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by conrailandrew View Post
    I was worried about derailment issues coming off the points and having a gap immediately after
    There shouldn't be gap at the section joint (or any Free-moN butt joint).
    If you have your rails flush at the ends there should be nary a blip nor a bump at the joint.



    The trick is to slide a piece of styrene between the section joint before clamping to lay the track.
    Then when you cut the track to separate the sections, there will still be some rail hanging over that you can file flush.
    (Otherwise the width of the blade creates a gap between sections/modules)

    That said, we have modules where there's a sizable (1/16"? 1/8"?) gap between modules that the trains "Dukes of Hazzard" over.
    Not recommended, though.

    I would not make the turnout using all PC board ties.
    Waste of ties and actually doesn't help.

    I would, however, add PC board ties to the following locations in addition to those indicated on the FastTracks templates:



    As the throwbar side is close to a section joint, I'd extend the rails far enough past the throwbar to solder to the PC board ties (Or American Tie & Timber "Gapmasters") on both sides of the gap.
    And if you have two turnouts close to each other on either side of the gap then I'd build the two as one fixture, install it across the gap and then cut after everythings secured.
    That would reduce the number of joints.

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    That's perfect, M.C.!
    Also, I've been putting an extra tie where you have the yellow line, but I'll start adding the extras too.
    Karl, I probably would have forgotten all about that screw and been in trouble later! Thanks!

    baronjutter, I was in your dilemma when I started building Free-moN modules. Just start building, people will join you. I've seen so many people say, "I'd build a module if there was only someone to run with", that if they all built modules, they would more than likely double our numbers!

    Andrew

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    All right, time to glue down the foam. I've searched the Internet to see what others use, and come up with white glue, wood glue, latex caulk, etc...
    On my previous Free-moN module I used hot glue, but I don't think I'd care to repeat that as I don't know if it'll hold up over time. I ended up securing it a variety of other ways. (Oh yeah, I guess I'll have to put up pics of that module!)

    What time-tested ways do you all use to glue down the foam to the plywood?

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    I found just a bit of wood glue along with SCREWS worked great. It's amazing how well screws will secure rigid foam.

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  19. #35
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    Now where is that LOL button?
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

    My Flickr Pages

    http://www.janbouli.com

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  21. #36
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    Default My other module

    Here is a module I built this past spring to test out Free-moN and see if the concept would work for me. It did!
    It is freelanced, and I have yet to complete the scenery (I tend to get stuck on scenery when I don't have a prototype to copy), but I thought you might enjoy seeing it.
    2013-09-09 16.37.01.jpg2013-09-09 16.36.36.jpg
    The bridges are modified Atlas bridges, and the large center span is a Kato bridge.
    The track is all handlaid on Woodland Scenics foam roadbed.

    The new modules are awaiting their foam, but I have tests today and tomorrow at college, so it'll be Thursday night at the earliest before I get to work on them. I'll probably be using caulk with screws to hold it, as I tend to get impatient when it comes time to lay track!

    Andrew

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    That looks pretty good! Just needs some static grass and bushes, and of course ballast.

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  25. #38
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    Sweet - the OMID is an ALCo road! That means that I am officially paying attention now. That, plus you're posting pictures, so how can I resist?

    You've backed yourself into a terrible corner, though, by showing us pics of the subject matter you're modeling, plus the Google Maps overlay showing how you don't need to compress anything. That means we all have license to NITPICK every little departure from prototype! And golly, do we ever love to pick nits...

    (nah, we won't be too harsh! To be honest, I don't know that I've ever seen someone attempting an honest uncompressed proto scene. It's exciting, though to me it would be daunting)

    Get yourself a Rail Pass for free travel on the WP&P: wpandp.com
    Could Star Wars: The Last Jedi have been a smarter movie with just one tweak? wpandp.com/how-an-interdictor-could-have-fixed-the-last-jedi/

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    The more nitpicking, the merrier...as long as the nitpicker provides a solution to fix the thing they are nitpicking!
    I'm open to anything that will make this module better. The closer it is to the prototype, the better!
    Disclaimer: I reserve the right to make the final decision on what "solutions" will or will not be implemented.
    Please, feel free to dish out helpful comments at any time!

    Andrew

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    I reserve the right to hold back any helpful comments if I find that the supply of ALCo pictures seems to be lacking.

    Get yourself a Rail Pass for free travel on the WP&P: wpandp.com
    Could Star Wars: The Last Jedi have been a smarter movie with just one tweak? wpandp.com/how-an-interdictor-could-have-fixed-the-last-jedi/

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