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Thread: Couplers on Micro Trains Civil War series cars

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    Default Couplers on Micro Trains Civil War series cars

    Has anyone changed the link & pin couplers for knuckle couplers on the Micro Train Civil War Series Box Car, Conductor Car or Flat car? How did you do it and what knuckle coupler did you use?

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    Honestly, I would not change out the link and pin couplers. (You did not state why you want to do that.)

    Instead I would get a vintage 4-4-0 Steamer like the Jupiter, UP 119, American, or The General to pull those cars. Add link and pin coupler if needed.

    If they do not fit the era you are modeling, park them at a museum on the layout and run them as an occasional excursion train, with vintage Overton coaches or flat cars with a canopy and bench seats for the passengers, all with link and pin couplers.

    Of course, you need to make the excursion route simple enough for the train to return to its station without backing up. The link and pin couplers a virtually impossible to back without derailing.
    (The voices I hear in my head may not be real, but sometimes they come up with a good idea.)

    Have fun.

    Moose

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    I thought they came in both coupler versions.
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    The ones that I have (flat, box and conductor cars) only came with the link and pin. There is no shame is saying that the L&P are extremely difficult to use! Boy are they tiny!
    Best,
    Tony

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    I believe you pull the pin out and install a 1015 coupler using the pin hole for the mounting screw.
    Tony Hines

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    I model the Civil War Era, I have 12 Civil War Era locomotives (knuckle couplers) and 47 cars (knuckle couplers). I just bought 3 of the Micro Train cars with link and pin, are they a chore to link up and unlink amongst themselves. The link and pins really don't look like real link and pins, they look like figure 8's with the ends removed, they snap in an out (easier said than done). So my choice is to convert these 3 to knuckles or everything else to Micro link and pin. Since neither looks like the real thing, I'm going with changing 3!

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    I think you have a couple of options.
    1. Replace with the standard 1015 MT couplers
    2. Replace the trucks with archbar trucks with couplers
    3. Replace with z-scale 905's (best option my opinion)


    I think the 1015's and the truck mounted couplers will reveal too much at the car ends and look oversize. I plan on using 905's on mine, just haven't gotten around to do it yet. I put a bunch of 905's on some bachmann cars and they work fine and look great.

    Cheers,
    Craig

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    Craig,

    Have you had any problems with the 905's coupling with other knuckle couplers? Were the Bachmann cars their "Old Timer Series"?

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    905's work fine with all the N scale couplers. I use them on the pilots of steam locos and most of my cabooses.
    Tony Hines

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldjohn View Post
    Craig,

    Have you had any problems with the 905's coupling with other knuckle couplers? Were the Bachmann cars their "Old Timer Series"?
    I've had no problems with the 905's coupling with N scale MT couplers, but I have not tried other makers of knuckle couplers. 905's will uncouple with uneven trackwork, but the short body length of the cars minimizes that effect.

    Yes, the bachmann's are the old timer versions. I pick these up at trainshows for around $2-4 each in the junk bins, lower the bolster platforms, swap in MT archbar trucks (wish they sold the brown in 10 packs), and bodymount 905's (drill, tap, screw). I'm trying to figure the best way to replace the grossly oversize truss rods on these cars. I meet the Bachmann folks at the Amherst Train show and expressed my "feelings" about the toylike appearance of these cars and suggested they were long overdue for an upgrade. I prefaced my conversation with kudos for their upgrades in the steam department.

    Since you do the civil war era, you might want to look at Eric Cox's Shapeways pages.
    http://www.shapeways.com/shops/panam...ection=N+Scale
    Eric specializes in n scale civil war era models. He has his own version of link and pin coupler, but I have no experience with them. He also has a large variety of trucks available and some freight and passenger cars. I found him very responsive to questions and requests.

    Cheers,
    Craig

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    Upgrading the truss rods is an almost no brainer. Just do what the builders have been doing since the invention of the model train.

    Install queenposts and string phosphor-bronze wire across them.

    A NWSL Chopper would make short work of making uniform parts and four nails in a board makes a good bending jig for the wire. The turnbuckle could be ignored, made of a blob of glue or cut from something else.

    Nipping off the factory posts and rod fills the holes for you. But if you pull the metal chassis out, the rods can be pushed from the other side and the new parts added in their stead.
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    I wanted to take a moment to thank each one of you for your thoughtful suggestions. When I started this thread I didn't hold out much on getting any responses because the Civil War Era is a sparsely modeled subject, but I been pleasantly surprised at the responses and your suggestions - Thank You all very very much, oldjohn.

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    Hey, curious if anyone has any comments or info on a 'new?' offering? https://www.walthers.com/cwe-usmrr-armoured-4-pk
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    Found interesting threads on the American Civil War armoured trains - the Walthers offerings appear to be fanciful but I am no expert
    https://civilwartalk.com/threads/arm...in-car.143419/
    https://civilwartalk.com/threads/civ...3#post-2020638
    https://civilwartalk.com/threads/pet...6/#post-924176

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