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Thread: Combine ZP Focusing / Stacking

  1. #61
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    You are right Matt , but I am talking about photo's of my structure builds , where I want as much in focus as possible from a very close distance 20 - 30 cm. When I want a photo od a very tiny abject and only the object itself should be in focus I use a 90mm Macro lens or even my 70-300 zoom from much further away.
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  3. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Janbouli View Post
    You are right Matt , but I am talking about photo's of my structure builds , where I want as much in focus as possible from a very close distance 20 - 30 cm. When I want a photo od a very tiny abject and only the object itself should be in focus I use a 90mm Macro lens or even my 70-300 zoom from much further away.
    That I totally agree with. If you are shooting at that distance with a 1:1 reproduction ratio macro lens, then you're shooting a huge DOF "Macro" that you would have to use stacked images in Helicon or similar. While reading this thread, I was under the impression that the Macro stacking software was being used for regular layout shots, where good lighting/strobes/flash, and a high f-stop should more than suffice. While that's something I see being used in some peoples landscape work, I personally feel that stealing the DOF away makes the shot look fishy. But then again, I hate HDR also.

    Matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by GNMatz View Post
    While reading this thread, I was under the impression that the Macro stacking software was being used for regular layout shots, where good lighting/strobes/flash, and a high f-stop should more than suffice.
    Moose's layout is cramped so moving a way from the objective of any photograph is difficult to impossible. Additionally, lighting is difficult & time consuming to set up for quick & fun photo shots.
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    Sometimes I miss my old pre-autofocus film SLR. The lens barrels had a depth of field scale on it so that you could tell what distances would be in focus at each f stop; moving the far f22 mark across from infinity got you widest possible depth of field outdoors, in this example from about 14 foot to infinity.
    http://www.fineart-photography.com/dofScale.html
    My autofocus Canon lens doesn't even show you what distance the center of focus is set to, much less the DOF edges.

    In any case, consider focusing somewhat farther back than the nose of the loco on you train shots.

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    Quote Originally Posted by NtheBasement View Post
    Sometimes I miss my old pre-autofocus film SLR. The lens barrels had a depth of field scale on it so that you could tell what distances would be in focus at each f stop; moving the far f22 mark across from infinity got you widest possible depth of field outdoors, in this example from about 14 foot to infinity.
    http://www.fineart-photography.com/dofScale.html
    My autofocus Canon lens doesn't even show you what distance the center of focus is set to, much less the DOF edges.

    In any case, consider focusing somewhat farther back than the nose of the loco on you train shots.
    Very good point! When you encounter an unforgivable thin DOF, split it in half, front and back to get the widest sweet spot!

    GNR Pitch Fork Pass






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    Quote Originally Posted by Moose2013 View Post
    Moose read about photo focusing / stacking so down load Combine ZP ... Moose see what Paul ( @Jack43 ), TD (@TwinDad ) and others have been able to accomplish with this and other software in other threads, so Moose download and try CZP software today.

    Moose have many problems. Moose no understand what is wrong.

    Moose no understand what wrong?

    Nskale no understand what it even is.

    Must look up this "photo focusing / stacking"

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