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Thread: Baro's 3x8

  1. #1741
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    I agree with cleaning around the throw rods. Use an Xacto knife and a pin to clear any ballast or other debris. I have Tortoise switch machines, which I have increased the pressure on the throw rods of troublesome turnouts. I haven't tried bending the point rail, though I've heard of this method before.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
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    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    A big problem is that the design of my turnout controls don't really provide a lot of pressure on the throw bar. The link will swivel once there's too much pressure. Without ballast issues it's more than enough for a good solid throw, but with ballast problems I can push and hold the turnout into a nice tight position with my finger, but once it let it go it springs back half a mm or so and derails cars.

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    Quote Originally Posted by baronjutter View Post
    I ran some trains over some of my turnouts and noticed they are derailing every time. I had them working post-ballasting just fine and have never had trouble with ballast and turnouts, but this time something's really gone wrong and I don't know how to fix it. The points just aren't quite going flush on both sides of many turnouts. Any ideas? Should I re-wet the area and jiggle things? Throw the layout away and start over?
    You might have a build up of glue on top of the ties under the point rails that maybe obstructing the side to side movement as well as holding the points up.
    As NtheBasement stated, scrape not only the sides of the rails, but the tops of the ties as well.
    The Little Rock Line blog


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  5. #1744
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    It seems as though something is restricting the movement of the point rails, like Allen said. This would account for the spring back. Simple obstruction of the throw bar by ballast would not cause spring back, in my view.

    Perhaps an errant ballast stone or tiny bit of glue is causing the points to stick closer to the hinge point. After some gentle scraping of intermediate ties and the bases of the point rails, maybe a light brushing of the parts with powdered graphite to reduce friction might do the trick.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    I've done everything recomended other than vacuum and it's a lot better, at least for my test train of boxcars but I know locos are more fussy.

    A big problem was that the point rails and their hinges were locked with glue, which were turning them into springs wanting to spring back to the centre position. Once the glue snapped they did better. I've been cleaning debris out with a mechanical pencil and it seems to be lubricating things as well as I work. Seems not totally hopeless. But "next time" I'm going to attach my turnout controls in a way that puts more pressure on things!!

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    It is tough that you had this problem, Jan, but the discussion has been educational for all of us. Sure made me engage the little gray cells. Thanks for sharing!
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    I'm no expert on ballasting but I always clean the rail webs with wooden half tooth picks -- first with the blunt side then with the pointy side. Then vacuum.

    FWIW
    Yours,

    Gene

    Turtle Creek Industrial RR

    Link to my Flickr account: https://www.flickr.com/photos/epumph/

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  12. #1748
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    Been away from trains for a while, but am back with a testing plate for experiments with how I'll do my tram track.



    Test treatment #1 will be a typically ballasted track set in concrete on either side that will then be covered over by a good layer of trim grass.


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    Really glad I'm experimenting before committing to anything because so far I'm not feeling this.


    - - - Updated - - -

    I'm wanting a very trim neat manicured lawn look around the track. Part of me is thinking about maybe actually using grass-mat cut to shape??

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    You have a prototype picture of what you’re after?
    The Little Rock Line blog


    “Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlin

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    Im no expert , but i would think static grass will be what your looking for .

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by baronjutter View Post
    Part of me is thinking about maybe actually using grass-mat cut to shape??
    I say try it out, if you don't like it you'll be able to figure out SOME other use for the grass mat and it won't go to waste.
    Bronman - "Trains and Legos... you can't have too many of them."

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    I'd say the shortest static grass you can find ( 2mm) . If it's too tall you can always mow it with a men's electric razor .......Mike

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    mask the rail with narrow pinstripe masking tape. Apply static grass. pull up the tape. should be good for a weed trimmer along the rails neat clean edge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by baronjutter View Post
    I'm wanting a very trim neat manicured lawn look around
    For that look even the shortest static grass is too long. My best results for a manicured look came with simply using ground foam. I sparingly applied glue as evenly as I could, sprinkled on the ground foam, and pressed flat with a board. Then lightly vacuum.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    I think static grass would be too long in this situation. Going for a look like this.


    So classic WS fine grass flock I think will do a perfect job, it's just figuring out a nice way to bury the rails in something the grass can then stick to which also leaves rooms for the flanges. In our scale flange-ways need to be grotesquely over-sized, specially for japanese trams with pizza cutter wheels.

    My plaster attempt did not turn out well at all, it's a mess and carving out the flanges is a nightmare. I remember the first time I tried something like this years ago I had the same problem and vowed to never use plaster for this sort of thing again. Next attempt will be to just use my classic laser cut cardboard as if I was building track-in-concrete but paint the cardboard greenish and then put a thin manicured layer of fine flock on top.

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    Could you cut the grass mat with the laser cutter? Dress it up with Woodland Scenics fine foam so it has some variance in color and texture?
    Bronman - "Trains and Legos... you can't have too many of them."

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    How about a piece of .010 or .015 styrene strips on the side and middle to cover the tracks - as if you were simulating rails in concrete. Glue the styrene on to the top of the ties. Paint the styrene brown and 2mm static grass on top of the styrene.

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    You could do 1mm static grass. Quick Google search revealed plenty of options.
    Bronman - "Trains and Legos... you can't have too many of them."

    My Layout Build Thread - The Spokane & Eastern Washington
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    I know my skill level with static grass application and I'm very sure I would not be able to pull this off with static grass of any sort. Classic WS fine grass foam really does look fine for N scale closely mowed grass.

    When I've done stuff like this in the past what always bugs me is being able to see the general shape of ties in the flangeway. Part of me wants to try to hand-lay directly on top of my MDF, like I did for the elevated portion on my last layout. If I pulled that off the track would be totally flat underneath.

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