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Thread: Baro's 3x8

  1. #1701
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    For lighting on my 4x6'8" layout, I use a single HEKTAR pendant lamp from IKEA with a LED spotlight. It's not so much for working under, though it functions 'ok' for that. What it does do is make a very nice, realistic look on the layout as far as reproducing sunlight. The shadows, etc. and light color look like a sunny Summer day around 1 pm. You can check out my thread "The Soo's P-Line" to see some pics, all taken with a smart phone and no flash. (Except the new night street light shots, the overhead light was off for those of course)

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  3. #1702
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    Obviously your island does not resemble Gilligan's at all.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

  4. #1703
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    Painting track is a nightmare. Well airbrushing a nice compromise dark brown over your wood tie track and rails and calling it done is easy, dark brown rails look good and dark brown ties look good. Easy. But concrete track? Oh my not fun. I painted it all a very close matching gray to the plastic, but now I have light gray rails. The tutorials I watched on painting concrete track were all for HO and involved masking or just hand-brushing the sides of the rails which seemed so easy in HO. In N scale it's not easy, not at all. It took me almost an hour to do only a half meter of track and even then it's sloppy. I have almost 2m more of concrete track to paint. The key to nice looking concrete track is the contrast between the rusty gray track and clips and the light gray ties, contrast require precision and is not forgiving...

    Well here's how I did, I'll touch up some of the ties with gray again and will just have to hope ballast will hide most of it.





    The wooden track turned out... fine. I'll go in and hand paint some diversity of ties later on the less maintained sidings.

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  6. #1704
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    I forgot about all the little filler ties! Should have put them in before painting but it's not hard to touch them up. Added them all in.



    I think it's worth all the work painting the concrete track and getting the clip pins a rusty colour, makes the track pop.


    I'm jumping the gun here on ballasting, but I wanted to do an experiment. So many of my turnouts are arched upwards or not sitting flat because I didn't glue them. Trying to see if ballasting the turnout then putting a heavy object on top will be enough to fix them flat.

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  8. #1705
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    Looks good. For the rails, are you using a brush or paint pens? I used an older (discontinued) paint pen from Woodland Scenics and thought it worked well - there are plenty to choose from:

    http://www.fiferhobby.com/paint-pens/

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    I'm using a tiny chisel shaped brush, I find the WS paint pens are not really designed for N scale C55 track, they're too fat and the paint gets all over the ties. I wish you could slip in a fine-tip that would just get the side of the rail and the tops of the clips.

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  11. #1707
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    I really enjoy watching your attention to detail. It really does make a difference. This little details are the difference between a well modeled scene and a scene that starts to come alive. It is impressive to see a finished scene and have it start to look like a photo of a prototype.

    I know it takes you a lot of time and also causes you a lot of frustration. Please never stop, the work you do is worth it. I can speak for myself but I believe it applies to many others as well when I say it also serves as inspiration to step up our game as well. Blows my mind how small the level of detail being pulled off is.

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    I got like half the layout ballasted today. I actually like ballasting! I'm not the best at it, I still get bubble, I still vow every layout "this time I'm going to get real stone ballast so no more floating WS particles!" but don't. But I really don't mind doing it, it's scenery work and scenery is fun. Wish I could trade labour with someone who likes track laying and wiring and I could ballast for them!

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    We love your scenery work too. Glad to see you are getting close. Always excited to see what new idea Baro comes up with using that club Laser.

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  17. #1710
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave68124 View Post
    We love your scenery work too. Glad to see you are getting close. Always excited to see what new idea Baro comes up with using that club Laser.
    Ditto! What Dave and Digital said.
    The Little Rock Line blog


    “Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlin

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    Mainline ballasted


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    I'm realizing I really can't or shouldn't start working on terrain or anything near the edge of my layout until I have the fascia up around the layout as it will need to contour to match and I'll have water effects going "over" the edge of the fascia. I don't want to use cheap ol' hardboard again because I have no need for curving, so I think I'll get door skin or some other very thin nice finish ply.

    Not much of a wood-worker so some questions for those who might know:
    -How to invisibly attach the fascia to my layout without screws showing? I can't screw from the back as there wouldn't be enough purchase into the thin wood I don't think. Tiny finishing nails and glue?

    -How to get a nice 45 degree bevel at the corner? For lumber I'd just use a chop-saw, but not sure how to cut such a very thin bit of ply like that. Would I need to figure out a router? Might be tricky maneuvering an 8' length of ply into it. Easier way?

  20. #1713
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    I was thinking construction adhesive might be your best bet. Likely skip the finishing nails if your wood isn't that thick as it will be the glue that is doing all the work anyway. For the corners, it might be a bit unconventional, but what about a thin wood trim piece?

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    Finish nails and glue . The finish nails will hold it until the glue dries , just set the heads of the nails in a bit and putty them over and sand to finish . Ready for paint then . I would recomend 1/8" masonite (hardboard) or 1/8" MDF (would be my choice) as it will not have a grain finish , which will paint up nicer than something like a door skin which has open grain . If you went to some of the cabinet shops in town , ask them if the have 1/8" cover sheets . The cover sheets come on lifts of MDF and other materials . They may be a bit dirty , nothing a light sanding cant clean up , and they may give you a 4×8 sheet for free . They get lots of them . Maybe offer them a case of beer for the sheet and to cut it up for you into strips of your needed size . Beer goes a long way with cabinet shop crews and owners . I know in the shop i work in it does .

    Steve

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  23. #1715
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    May I suggest that you do Masonite again, fastened with countersunk flat head screws. No bumps.
    THEN cover with a nice veneer using contact cement.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    I was hoping to do doorskin so I could stain and gloss it to match my cabinets. But with a 9' run on the front I'd have to do it in multiple sections and then the grain might look strange segmented like that along the front. I can jigsaw down some contours but I was also hoping to buy from a place that would table-saw it down into some strips for me first. I know "The Finishing Store" on Blanshard carries 1/4" MDF. If I went the MDF route I could just sand and fill and paint all the pieces and get a pretty uniform finish. I want to build my city-deck out of 1/4" MDF as well so then I'd just have 1 material to work with, probably the rest of the half-sheet.

    Ah crap finishing store doesn't have a table saw. Will need to shop around for a place that sells 1/4 MDF AND will do some basic cuts for customers.

    But Castle on Bay does! Horray. Will have to wait to get access to the car on the weekend as my wife doesn't get home from work soon enough for me to then get there before closing, and lumber yard guys tend to not make the best cuts when it's 10 min before closing.

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    So the corner of the layout is going to be a little hint of the sea that lays beyond the confines of my little layout. A thin acrylic sheet was used for the base of the water, I think that's a good enough distance between track and sea level.


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  28. #1718
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    I will be very interested in how that water appears when done!
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    I'll be using the same technique as my last attempt at water which I think actually turned out pretty ok.


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    I went to a different store than usual to get my wood and get it cut down. Every single piece is off and crooked. "A 4 inch strip please" turned into something 3.8" on one end and 4.5" the other. I won't be buying wood there again. Luckily I can work with what I got, the crooked shapes can be worked around.

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