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Thread: You know that sketchy eBay listing for $9.99 per car weathering? I tried it.

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intermodalman View Post
    that's an MT car, the top hatches lift up to reveal the inside of the car (the plan was to have this one positioned at an elevator with hatches open being loaded)
    Ah! Gotcha, sorry...


    QUOTE=Intermodalman;523807]My thoughts exactly, I noticed the lack of fade right away which sorta kills the look right off the bat[/QUOTE]

    Yup!
    My thought is if you're going to weather something, to any degree, the fade coat is a must. But each to their own.
    The Little Rock Line blog


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    The roof hatches on those hoppers are usually fiberglass. The interiors of the cars get cleaned between shipments, so it is prototypical that the underside of the hatch would be clean. The tops of them may get some grime from weather, but you will rarely see rust up there. Maybe some oxidation if they have the less common aluminum hatches.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpwisc View Post
    The roof hatches on those hoppers are usually fiberglass. The interiors of the cars get cleaned between shipments, so it is prototypical that the underside of the hatch would be clean. The tops of them may get some grime from weather, but you will rarely see rust up there. Maybe some oxidation if they have the less common aluminum hatches.
    Ah, okay, then I might just hit the bottoms with a light touch of something to sell the look
    Did someone say whitcomb?

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    Here's the hopper with hatches open, it just doesn't look right
    Did someone say whitcomb?

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    I dunno, being a mode of transporting foodstuffs I'd imagine the insides are kept pretty clean, there might be some 'dust' from the grain but it wouldn't be as covered or stained as you'd think. I know for sure transports like milk trucks are flushed and cleaned after each use, I don't see why any other mobile food container would be treated any differently, much less left to be stained or contaminated by outside effects like rust or grime (or so I'd like to think).
    Tim

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    And thanks to YOU, his turnaround time will now be something like 3 years with all the business you're giving him!

    Metro Red Ln (Metro Red Line)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intermodalman View Post
    Here's the hopper with hatches open, it just doesn't look right
    I think there are two things that stand out:

    The bottom of the hatch should be clean, but everything outside of where it seals would be dirty. Specifically the latches and hinges. They stand out like a sore thumb to me.

    The other thing is that while it is cleaned, except for when it's first opened for a moment it will be "dusty" with grain dust. Plus no white paint stays bright white. Even if you want a "fresh opened" look I would paint with like 5% grey just so it's not in your face white, and if you want it to look like it's being filled hitting it with a very light tan/brown to simulate the grain dust would be a good idea.

    Here's a picture I found online.



    Note also the overhead works, and that the men are tied off to it with fall protection.
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    lolin' at that pickle rick car. Was that specifically requested or just something the weathering guy did on his own?

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    Quote Originally Posted by baronjutter View Post
    lolin' at that pickle rick car. Was that specifically requested or just something the weathering guy did on his own?
    That was requested, sent him a set of decalsalong with the cars
    Did someone say whitcomb?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bicknell View Post
    I think there are two things that stand out:

    The bottom of the hatch should be clean, but everything outside of where it seals would be dirty. Specifically the latches and hinges. They stand out like a sore thumb to me.

    The other thing is that while it is cleaned, except for when it's first opened for a moment it will be "dusty" with grain dust. Plus no white paint stays bright white. Even if you want a "fresh opened" look I would paint with like 5% grey just so it's not in your face white, and if you want it to look like it's being filled hitting it with a very light tan/brown to simulate the grain dust would be a good idea.

    Here's a picture I found online.

    Note also the overhead works, and that the men are tied off to it with fall protection.
    Great shot. There is no paint on that hatch, that’s bare fiberglass. An interesting note is the next car in line. The hatches are shiny clean. Variety is the spice of life.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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    Quote Originally Posted by Intermodalman View Post
    Here's the hopper with hatches open, it just doesn't look right.
    It is close, a light dusting with some Pan Pastels to give it the look of the rough side of a fiberglass mold and you will be in business. Leo’s photo is a great reference.

    Something else I've done is swap hatches between different MT hoppers. You see that a lot. When cars get them replaced, they don’t care if the color matches. You’ll see BN green hatches on grey hoppers, white on MRL blue hoppers and so on.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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    Oh cool it's based on a real train.

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    Quote Originally Posted by baronjutter View Post
    Oh cool it's based on a real train.
    https://i.imgur.com/ZU6ZIcI.png?3
    Indeed, the decal was designed to be applied to an intermountain hopper so size wise it's a bit off
    Did someone say whitcomb?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpwisc View Post
    There is no paint on that hatch, that’s bare fiberglass.
    I think you're technically correct, but that your statement may also be misleading.

    If it's really just bare Fiberglass (resin on the glass matt) it would have more of a brown tint. More importantly it would degrade in sunlight. The UV works on the resin over time and does bad things.

    What's normally done is a pigment is added to the last coat or two of resin which acts as a UV blocker to protect the piece. That pigment comes in many colors (see: boat building), but based on the second car in the picture I think they just used plain old white here. This has the added benefit of being embedded in the fiberglass, so it can't chip off into the foodstuff.

    Which is why I say technically correct, there probably is no paint involved. I think it's misleading though because I do think the hatches were made a color (white in this case, I've also seen green) as part of the fiberglass manufacturing process. To replicate that on the model would require painting.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bicknell View Post
    To replicate that on the model would require painting.
    No. It is an unnecessary step. Just use the injection molded pieces as they are. That give probably the best texture possible. Maybe a clear seal on them so chalks or pan pastels have something to bite to.

    No paint on the proto, no paint needed on the model.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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    Aussie pic:

    --
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    Another US image, notice black gasket material on this one:



    There's also a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgF2gc02g_0
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    Leo Bicknell

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    For the gasket, one could probably take a very fine point black or gray sharpie marker and trace around the inner edge?
    The Little Rock Line blog


    “Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlin

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    Quote Originally Posted by Allen H. View Post
    For the gasket, one could probably take a very fine point black or gray sharpie marker and trace around the inner edge?
    I was thinking that but doesn't sharpie react poorly to clear coat?
    Did someone say whitcomb?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Intermodalman View Post
    I was thinking that but doesn't sharpie react poorly to clear coat?
    Clear Coat before you Sharpie. Make sure the clear coat is dry or the sharpie will creep.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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