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Thread: Elsewhere Yard

  1. #121
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    The sides of the subroadbed strips are cut at an approx 45 degree angle after the glue has set completely.




    From the main tracks there's a gentle slope down to the yard where the subroadbed is the base board itself. As mentioned in an earlier post, the roadbed for the main tracks will be 2mm cork strips and the entire yard will have 2mm cork as base. This means that I somehow have to make a slope at both yard leads.

    I had no idea how to go about that because I didn't expect that the cork would respond well to sanding, but a friend suggested - which had crossed my mind also - to soak the cork in a water/white glue mix to harden it a bit before attempting to sand it.
    That worked like a charm. With a sanding pad on the multicutter I made the nicest slope I could wish for. Way better than expected. It's hardly even noticeable on the track.






    Checking that the slope surface is sideways level so the trains don't lean to the side when passing ...

    nScale.net: Elsewhere Yard
    nScale.net: AT&SF West Valley Division (abandoned)
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  3. #122
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    While I had modules 5-7 out I figured I would apply the 2mm cork roadbed strips on top of the subroadbed. It turns out that the 2mm cork I used for my old layout doesn't work very well with the rubbery cork glue I'm using now (I used acrylic caulk back then). The strips simply wouldn't stick to the subroadbed no matter how I tried.
    I don't know if cork can get too old and dry for this purpose, but the problem could be that the 2mm cork is more coarse and porous than the newer 3mm cork, so maybe the glue works differently. I don't know, but I've ordered a roll of denser 2mm cork from the same online vendor where I got the 3mm.
    Sure, I could use caulk again, but I have a feeling that the rubbery cork glue has better sound properties, so I don't want to break that chain. Also, I'm going to use 2mm cork as roadbed all over the yard and I'm not picking that fight if I can avoid it.

    Here you can see the two qualities of cork. Ye olde 2mm the the left, new 3mm to the right. Much denser and much easier to work with.




    At the other end of the yard there's a ramp down from the main to the yard also. This one crosses over between modules 1 and 2, so that was a bit more challenging. Considering that the density in the cork seems to give it different properties, I figured maybe I didn't need to soak the cork in white glue before sanding, so I had a go at it. Sure enough, once safely secured to the baseboard with the cork glue, I could sand it without any problems. The module end walls required a little bit of special attention, but here's the ramp done.




    This is the first example showing why I chose to raise the end walls of the modules above the base board. I sand the end walls down to follow the contours of the landscape of the module. The alternative would be to let the cork extend all the way to the edge where it would be more vulnerable when handling the modules.




    And again a quick lineup to check the geometry and get an impression of how it's going to look
    At the other end, the yard lead extends into the branch line, but here it will just be a short blind track to prevent runaways from entering the main.

    Last edited by SteamPower4ever; 18th Dec 2021 at 02:35 PM. Reason: wording
    nScale.net: Elsewhere Yard
    nScale.net: AT&SF West Valley Division (abandoned)
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  5. #123
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    While I'm waiting for the 2mm cork to arrive I've started installing the through wiring.
    I'll be using separate boosters for three power domains, the main line (green), the yard (blue) and the engine facility (orange).








    Module #5 is going to be the power hub, so that's where I started. As mentioned earlier in the thread I use XLR connectors for the module interconnections. These connectors have been battle tested in the music industry through decades, but although there's plenty to choose from, one shouldn't buy too cheap. The first lot I got was simply too bad so I ended up buying higher quality connectors which of course are more expensive.

    On each half of the module I've made breakout strips where I can simply solder on drop feeder wires to accessory decoders and whatever.




    As the power hub, this module receives signals from the boosters and distrubutes DCC in each direction. The live end connectors are female and the receiving connectors are male. To the left you can see three 3-pole connectors each carrying a DCC power domain and one 4-pole connector leftmost. This is because according to the Fremo standard, accessories can not be connected to the track DCC signal, so switches and signals must be operated independently and locally. Some module owners use manual throws to switches and some make custom switchboards, but I'm going digital here also. So, the 4-pole connectors carry a DCC pair and a 16V AC pair of wires for accessories.

    First module down, eight to go

    Last edited by SteamPower4ever; 26th Dec 2021 at 06:01 PM. Reason: spelling
    nScale.net: Elsewhere Yard
    nScale.net: AT&SF West Valley Division (abandoned)
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  7. #124
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    Nice looking yard!
    The wiring is nice and clean, that's gonna be nice!
    Just out of curiosity, are sections 3A,B and C interchangeable?
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  8. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamPower4ever View Post
    While I'm waiting for the 2mm cork to arrive I've started installing the through wiring.
    Nice and professional looking. Great job!
    ​Doug (dilley340)


  9. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allen H. View Post
    Nice looking yard!
    The wiring is nice and clean, that's gonna be nice!
    Just out of curiosity, are sections 3A,B and C interchangeable?
    Quote Originally Posted by dilley340 View Post
    Nice and professional looking. Great job!
    Thanks guys, it's a lot of work now, but I know from professional experience that debugging problems later on will be much easier if I keep the wiring tidy.

    Yes, 3A-3B-3C will be interchangeable - or can be omitted entirely if needed. The basic idea is of course to make the length of the entire setup adaptable to varying requirements and space restrictions at meets.
    nScale.net: Elsewhere Yard
    nScale.net: AT&SF West Valley Division (abandoned)
    YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/SteamPower4ever

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  11. #127
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    The new 2mm cork I got is much better quality and much easier to work with, so now the roadbed for the main tracks and the branch line are done on modules 5-6-7.




    Here's a closeup where you can see the general idea with 3mm subroadbed and 2mm strips on top.




    Strips of cork are glued between the track strips where the crossovers will go. The wide strip shown here is for the double crossover.




    The yard lead roadbed is gently sloping down to the module base. The entire yard will then get a 2mm layer of cork as ground base.
    I could in fact start laying tracks on these modules now, but I'll wait until I'm done with the glue ...

    nScale.net: Elsewhere Yard
    nScale.net: AT&SF West Valley Division (abandoned)
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  12. #128
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    The roadbed at the other end of the yard with modules 1,2 and 4 is done. The curve in the foreground is mostly for scenery. I was planning a short blind track at the crossover from the yard lead to the main, but when I was laying down the cork I decided to extend the roadbed for an abandoned line to somewhere. Don't know yet if there'll be rusty overgrown track there or just ties. Time will show, but it will be a nice feature.




    The three modules 3A - 3C will of course go between 2 and 4, so the tracks on those must be absolutely straight and aligned with both 2 and 4. Having looked around for something straight spanning 4 meters I ended up using a steel measuring band and ye olde eyeball. I had marked the center of the modules and the center of the double track when modules 2 and 4 were joined, and now I can mark the centers of the main line along each module. Turns out I have placed the cork subroadbed visibly off the mark on those modules, but that's easy to fix by adding a strip of cork on one side and cutting away a strip on the other side.

    Last edited by SteamPower4ever; 10th Jan 2022 at 05:13 AM. Reason: wording ...
    nScale.net: Elsewhere Yard
    nScale.net: AT&SF West Valley Division (abandoned)
    YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/SteamPower4ever

    Failure is always an option.
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  13. #129
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    The cork roadbed is complete on all modules, including extensions 3A-3C.
    I remembered to draw a guide line through the yard area to make sure the yard tracks will be parallel to the main tracks.

    The modules are thus ready for me to start laying track now, but I need to do some testing first, such as the IR detectors that will go between the rails (that's my plan right now, anyway) and the rail anchors at the module ends. More about these to follow ...



    nScale.net: Elsewhere Yard
    nScale.net: AT&SF West Valley Division (abandoned)
    YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/SteamPower4ever

    Failure is always an option.
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