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Thread: N scale 2x4 "Project Layout" w/ Kato Unitrack

  1. #21
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    I like it and its giving me some ideas for a smallish layout!<br>
    Fergy
    CT&OT Railways (N, HO, O, G)

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  3. #22
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    I got a bunch of items in earlier this week for the layout, including one building kit, and some scenery details. I also went to Hobby Lobby yesterday and picked up other items I need to work on the layout.

    This layout (as the photos on the last page show) has a back drop/divider, so I bought a backdrop/photo to use for it. Having never done a back drop (or owned a layout that had one), I looked up what would be suitable for the board. The instructions with the backdrop photo suggested flexible foam board (Foamex?) with 2-3mm thickness, Hobby Lobby had some foam board at 4mm thickness so I decided to pick that up. It's not as flexible as they suggest but considering I'm just running it straight across I don't need much flexibility. The board is also tall enough that I cut it almost in half, as the photo is only about 10 inches in height (board was 28"), I decided to use the "extra" as a temporary divider so I could build up the hillside on the front and run plaster up to it without ruining the photo backdrop I plan to use.


    This is the station kit I'm building, it's a Gaugemaster "Country Station" kit by Kestrel designs. Goes together fairly easily, but they don't give you any instructions. The only guide I had was a photo on the package and it's about 300 scale feet away, as though someone photographed it from an N scale chopper. The chimney on one side fit in really well, I may not even glue it as it seems to be firmly stuck. The other one doesn't want to fit as well however, and I've tried both chimneys in both slots. I'm aware I have to glue them in, but I wanted to test fit before I glue anything. I haven't attached the roof to the walls yet either which is why they look out of place. I will say the platform looks better (to me) in the photo than it does in person, I'm a bit torn between using it, or using the Graham Farish platforms I have that are a bit more colorful. The station fits on the GraFar platform somewhat well, but not as well as it does on the platform it came with, obviously.


    I also started redoing the plaster sheets on the backside of the layout. Not exciting stuff. I don't have enough space for a siding to park an extra train but it's not a huge deal for me. I'll be happy just to have a "place" for the train to go out of sight before returning back around to the front.

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  5. #23
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    Finished painting the backscene the other day. Nothing too complex. Did sneak in an extra spur so I can potentially park a train back there for staging purposes.

    Since Kato unitrack sits up higher than the platform of my station, I decided to glue a piece of roadbed alongside the track to raise the platform. The second piece of roadbed underneath the depot is temporary, though I did cut it without measuring it to the width of the depot itself, and actually got close on the length! I'll probably cut another piece that's a better fit. Once it's glued in I'll cover both with a plaster sheet and blend it in with the terrain.

    I've been trying to figure out where I want the road to run through the layout, while trying to line up the bridge portals so trains can clear them without scraping the sides. I will probably use cork to "raise" them up a little. WS's risers don't curve enough to my liking without snapping, so I've been trying to carve foam to fit...which is how I found out that a hobby knife's blade doesn't really belong in one's finger... Nothing serious, but a bandage later and I should be good to go again here soon.

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  7. #24
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    wahooo another kato track user . looking good

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  9. #25
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    I cut the Peco stone wall linings down to size a bit and glued them together with the bridge portals to complete the first bridge. I think it's going to be a bit wide for a road bridge. How wide are the shoulders on English roads anyway? Here in the U.S. I've been on roads with absolutely no shoulders, just drop off, to ones on overpasses where I can park my car and get out to take pics of a train passing below without blocking traffic. I think my two bridges at the divider will be ok if they're a bit wide since they help serve as a point for the trains to "disappear" too. My template for the bridge width was the WS risers I have. For the bridge that sits at the foreground of the layout near the station, I may cut the linings down to the width of the (Noch)road I have and glue them together at that point. I used some cork road bed to raise the bridge up enough so I shouldn't have any clearance issues. I also tested a Conrail SD80MAC through the portal earlier to make sure anything I run would fit without scraping the sides, and had no problems then either.


    A Goods Depot arrived in the mail the other day, was kinda surprised that Graham Farish's building were ceramic instead of plastic. This building will be more level with the track once I get the pavement(plaster) in.

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  11. #26
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    Bought some (cheap) paints this morning, at 50 cents a piece if they end up not working out I won't be out too much money. I bought "pewter gray", "granite gray" and "country gray"(whatever that means) along with white to lighten the other three grays.

    Top left is a scrap piece where I just tried different colors/combinations. Top right is an unpainted piece.
    Bottom left is the various shades mixed with each other, bottom right is the various shades mixed with white or by themselves. I think I'll eventually do a heavily watered down white to fill in cracks after deciding what shade of gray to use...I'll also use weathering powders to add dirt/grime/soot as well.

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  13. #27
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    Where's the signal box? You gotta have a signal box, or even just a ground frame!

    No pressure. ... Let me know if you need help with that.

  14. #28
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    One thing at a time.

    So I "added" a second color to the bridge, at points that I think would be a different color than the rest. I kinda like it, I think a bit of weathering powder might help too.

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  16. #29
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    needs some ivy growing up it.

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  18. #30
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    Hill(s) on the right side of the layout ready for plaster covering:


    Bridge is not glued into place yet, just temporary while I figure out what should go where. Also cut out a cardstock "deck" for the bridge but I'll probably replace it with a black or gray sheet to mimic a road shoulder/apron.

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  20. #31
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    Hill covered (ran out of plaster strips at the right time I guess). I may need to cut into the plaster to get the bridge to fit as I wanted it to originally. Shouldn't be difficult. You can see how far to the right it is.




    *EDIT* Bridge adjusted (easily as I thought would be - I hope!) and paint down!

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  22. #32
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    Second ridge/hill whatever you want to call it now in, with connections to both bridges. The bridges need a little paint touch up, as does the station platform. I was hesitant on painting it but after painting the white strips on it I figured I should do the whole thing. I found a use for that "country grey" paint I bought, as it seems to mimic concrete pretty well.




    I think the hills on this second ridge may be a bit challenging. I may reuse strips of the walls I used for the bridges at the bottom where the hill meets the paved area by the goods depot/siding. It seems like a decent plan, anyway.

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  24. #33
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    Final progress for the evening.

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  26. #34
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    Finished road work and added a second coat of green paint to the board to cover up any plaster dust.


    Layout "wiring" mostly complete. Two power feeds and six turnout controller feeds. I think I need to add one more turnout feed. Also had the wire of one of the power feeds disconnect/break from the unijoiner after running it through the hole in the baseboard. Luckily I have an extra set that I'll need to run through. Still would be nice if it hadn't happened. I'm running the feeds on opposite sides of each main. Blue/white for one main, white/blue for the other. This is so the trains will run in opposite directions on the layout as I'm just using one controller. I shouldn't have too much stuff to cross over whenever I get to running trains, but with a pair of turnouts on each side, I can actually isolate part of each main if I want to stop a train.


    First train on the layout:

    It ran pretty well, though the locomotive derailed on the backside/staging part a few times, I believe due to unlevel track thanks to the plaster underneath. When I redid the foam I added as much as I could to level things out, but may need to go back and level the plaster a bit.



    Added scenery details to the hill on the right side of the layout. I'm debating between stone walls to line the sides of the road or hedges. (That's why there's a set on each side). I have extra hedges available if I go with them, but I'll need to order some stone walls if I want to use them on both sides of the roads. This road will "disappear" into the trees on the left once I put more of them in.

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  28. #35
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    Or you can do like they do in Ireland and have stone walls inside the hedges. Very interesting when you are driving a Fiat 500 size car and a John Deere 7200 is coming the other way on a road with maybe 12 feet between the hedges.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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  30. #36
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    Did a little work on the layout to get the outer loop running, after one minor off on the first lap, the steam engine (J39) I used ran at least 8-10 with no issues, so I think I've fixed that. May have one more section in staging to smooth out, but I think once the track is secured with glue/ballast, I shouldn't have any issues as the track won't move like it does now with nothing holding it down except a passing train.


    Added trees, more scenic materials and the backdrop! I think I have 45 trees on the layout so far, with more to go.




    Ballast and detailing I think are the major things left. Thinking about repainting the bridges to a more sand colored look as I've seen in some photos...not sure yet though. The steps on one side of my 3MT 2-6-2 broke yesterday after it settled in the plastic casing before I realized it was in the case the wrong way, so I'm hoping I can fix that with no real issues.

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  32. #37
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    Looking very good indeed! I particularly like the backdrop, the way it looks a little hazy which gives the impression of great distance.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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  34. #38
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    … I'm with Gordon... looks really good. The first photo looks very realistic. Kudos.

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  36. #39
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    love it as well very nice

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  38. #40
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    Adding ballast


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