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Thread: N / Nn3 dual-gauge crossings?

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    Default N / Nn3 dual-gauge crossings?

    I'm not even into Nn3 yet, really, just looking to see what could be done on 3' logging line idea.

    I've already proven to myself I can lay dual-gauge regular track and make it work, given some extra rail I had spiked to existing in-place track.

    One thing I'll need is a level crossing of some sort - conventional N with Z (Nn3) Has anybody ever made that? Fast Track Jigs? 60 degree, maybe 45 would be good, I don't think I can make 90 work. If there's anything out there I can't find it.

    I figure if I get desperate enough I'll just cut apart an existing N crossing right at the diamond and cut it up and reassemble it so that one side is narrower. I've done stuff like that before and can do some fairly precise work with soldering and a Dremel. Only to discover later that I could just have bought one so I'll post this on the offhand chance that somebody knows.

    I remember back in the 'old days' of HOn2 1/2 (N) over HO that Joeff (sp?) aka AHM Minitrains had a 45-degree dual-gauge crossing, one side N (HOn 2 1/2) the other side HO. I'm looking for kind of the same idea N/Z Nn3 but I don't think it exists.
    Randgust N scale kits web page at www.randgust.com

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    Whenever I was building complex track work, I'd do a pencil sketch first. I'd draw the main rails, then go back and draw the gaurdrails needed. I don't know how comfortable you are hand laying track though.

    I'm actually getting a little itch to try drawing it. Is it dual gauge on both sides?

    Andrew

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    Well, I got my Nn3 Climax A working well enough, and got some Rohukan imitation-unitrack pieces (sharp radius) and decided to just try cutting up an Atlas 90-degree C80 crossing that I had laying around anyway with no good reason to live.

    I trimmed one side short, then cut it all the way lengthwise just inside the guard rail with a Dremel abrasive disk, cut off all the melted plastic. I used a mill file and the dremel to file it narrower and square on both sides until it precisely measured Z gauge on one side. I put a piece of .010 styrene under it all, and glued the entire thing back together with styrene cement.

    Even for C80 the flangeways are deep, I put .010 black styrene shims across the flangeways (bottom) on both sides.

    I then put jumper wires across on the 9mm side for electrical continuity. The center rails on both sides are still 'hot'.

    I took some off the top of the C80 to taper down to the Rohukan Z. I like the Rohukan track as it's on a Kato-like roadbed and the line I'm looking at crossing is on roadbed as well, so putting this up on 'something' would be necessary anyway. They also have some fairly well-made switches, got one of those.

    The N side is really good, probably better than original with some of the flangeway filled in The Z size works, but at least for the typical MT trucks, they PRECISELY drop in both flangeways at the same time, would knock your teeth out if it was scaled up to full size. Now, the Z flanges are really thin, no getting around that one, so the discovery is that if at all possible, you probably don't want an exact 90-degree crossing of Z track over N if you can help it. If I use this on T-trak, the C80 is almost a requirement, and the 9mm side better be perfect - which it is - even if the Z side is a little ragged.

    But, that being said, I have tested it with my Climax A and a couple cars and it actually works fine despite the jolt. I may put this on a Ttrak module, we'll see, but as an experiment, I'd actually call it a success. Photos to come, nothing fantastic, but it actually works. There's probably a lot more elegant ways to do this, none of which would probably work any better with a 90-degree angle. It didn't really take all that long to do or was really that difficult.

    If you've ever ridden the Memphis trolley 'river line' where they pass over the regular railroad main line, you realize that streetcar flanges are thinner and smaller than railroad flanges when you bang over that diamond and you feel that one in your teeth as well, as you can't ride on the flange on that diamond either. So there's a prototype for everything.
    Randgust N scale kits web page at www.randgust.com

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    Here's the photo:

    Randgust N scale kits web page at www.randgust.com

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    Very creative and Nicely done.

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