Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: Attaching sub roadbed to risers?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    3,098
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    4,001
    Thanked 4,153 Times in 1,449 Posts
    Mentioned
    140 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default Attaching sub roadbed to risers?

    Just out of curiosity, do you guys secure your sub roadbed to "every riser" or just some of them, for example every second riser?
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Sequim, WA
    Posts
    3,096
    Blog Entries
    1
    Thanks
    10,297
    Thanked 4,509 Times in 1,825 Posts
    Mentioned
    92 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    When I built layouts with risers, every single one. No reason to borrow trouble later on.

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to Paul Schmidt For This Useful Post:


  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    3,098
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    4,001
    Thanked 4,153 Times in 1,449 Posts
    Mentioned
    140 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Good point and thanks.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Southern Colorado
    Posts
    3,024
    Blog Entries
    8
    Thanks
    1,267
    Thanked 1,904 Times in 901 Posts
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    What Paul said. I like to have a riser every foot or so if possible too. Makes it easier to lay out a grade using my "block of stripwood taped to the bottom of a level" technique.
    "Do Not Hump!?!?! Does that mean what I think it means?!?"--Michelle Blanchard

    "People saw wood and say nothing, but railroad men saw trains and say things that are better left unprinted."--Charles De Lano Hine

    Down with UP

  6. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ranulf For This Useful Post:


  7. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    3,098
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    4,001
    Thanked 4,153 Times in 1,449 Posts
    Mentioned
    140 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Thanks and my risers come out to about a 12" spacing as well. Looks as though I have to make a few more holes then
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to wombat457 For This Useful Post:


  9. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Mendota, IL
    Posts
    1,360
    Thanks
    1,511
    Thanked 1,383 Times in 685 Posts
    Mentioned
    22 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Glue, and screw every one! Double protection!
    My build thread: http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...t-do-you-think


    If it's a good idea, go ahead and do it. It is much easier to apologize than it is to get permission.
    - Admiral Grace Hopper

  10. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to migalyto For This Useful Post:


  11. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Zombietopia, Washington
    Posts
    5,246
    Thanks
    18,237
    Thanked 12,231 Times in 3,501 Posts
    Mentioned
    355 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Moose glued and screwed every riser as well...
    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)

    "Beware the Train of Thought that Carries no Freight..."

    "Reading is for morons who can't understand pictures..."

    Click Here to See Moose's Layout Thread

  12. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Moose2013 For This Useful Post:


  13. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    3,098
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    4,001
    Thanked 4,153 Times in 1,449 Posts
    Mentioned
    140 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Have been doing exactly that gluing and screwing all those I hadn't already screwed down
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

  14. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    306
    Thanks
    139
    Thanked 488 Times in 187 Posts
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    You all need to quit screwing around!

  15. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Olie For This Useful Post:


  16. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    3,098
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    4,001
    Thanked 4,153 Times in 1,449 Posts
    Mentioned
    140 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    seems a bit like that at times huh ...
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

  17. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO, US of A
    Posts
    1,793
    Thanks
    3,822
    Thanked 2,574 Times in 1,048 Posts
    Mentioned
    52 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    As one who has no experience with this mode of construction, I would think that you would need to be very careful that tightening screws does not distort the grade of the subroadbed.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

  18. The Following User Says Thank You to el Gato Gordo For This Useful Post:


  19. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    3,098
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    4,001
    Thanked 4,153 Times in 1,449 Posts
    Mentioned
    140 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    That is something that you need to be careful of.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

  20. #13
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Southern Colorado
    Posts
    3,024
    Blog Entries
    8
    Thanks
    1,267
    Thanked 1,904 Times in 901 Posts
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by el Gato Gordo View Post
    As one who has no experience with this mode of construction, I would think that you would need to be very careful that tightening screws does not distort the grade of the subroadbed.
    I found it easiest to use a C clamp to hold the riser in approximately the correct position, screw the roadbed to the riser, then make adjustments to the grade by moving the riser and clamping it well before screwing the riser to the benchwork. You can never have enough clamps.
    "Do Not Hump!?!?! Does that mean what I think it means?!?"--Michelle Blanchard

    "People saw wood and say nothing, but railroad men saw trains and say things that are better left unprinted."--Charles De Lano Hine

    Down with UP

  21. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ranulf For This Useful Post:


  22. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    3,098
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    4,001
    Thanked 4,153 Times in 1,449 Posts
    Mentioned
    140 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    ranulf,

    I agree whole heartedly and that is what I do as well.

    I think the issue that Gordon may be referring to is screwing the sub road bed into a "flat level surface" when that sub roadbed needs to follow a grade. It is inevitable that screwing something on a grade to a level flat surface will effect the grade where screwed. Only way to avoid that is to "bevel" the top of the risers to the same angle as the grade, and that would take a lot of work for possibly little gain or effect.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

  23. The Following User Says Thank You to wombat457 For This Useful Post:


  24. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leavenworth Ks
    Posts
    695
    Thanks
    2,456
    Thanked 1,766 Times in 451 Posts
    Mentioned
    21 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    One thing you need to do before screw the riser to the joist, is to make sure that it level across the roadbed (90 degrees to where the track is being laid). I use a cheap stringline level that is perfect for n scale roadbed width.
    Rodney

    Here is my build of my n-scale railroad
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...-50-8-quot-%29

  25. The Following User Says Thank You to Rodsup9000 For This Useful Post:


  26. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    3,098
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    4,001
    Thanked 4,153 Times in 1,449 Posts
    Mentioned
    140 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Oops, guess who forgot to do that. Wouldn't be a problem except I had to glue some risers in position due to their locality I am going to guess that I may have some unintentional "super elevated" curves.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

  27. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Palo Alto, CA
    Posts
    420
    Thanks
    603
    Thanked 732 Times in 212 Posts
    Mentioned
    17 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I screw and glue risers to my roadbed, but only screw to the joists. Iíve had to move some risers to make changes, and itís nice to be able to adjust the risers by simply unscrewing them.

  28. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to danb For This Useful Post:


  29. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    New York State
    Posts
    3,098
    Blog Entries
    4
    Thanks
    4,001
    Thanked 4,153 Times in 1,449 Posts
    Mentioned
    140 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    It is and I will be able to do that with the majority of mine. Murphy's Law though, the ones that may need to moved will undoubtedly be the ones I glued. If that is the case, I hope they have to go UP and not down.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

  30. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Windsor, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,083
    Thanks
    1,663
    Thanked 2,372 Times in 603 Posts
    Mentioned
    19 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Through trial and error I've pretty much settled and agree with all of the above points.

    - have a riser every 12-16 inches
    - screw and glue subroadbed into every riser
    - don't worry too much about over-tightening that screw - our grades are gentle enough and the ply absorbs the angle
    - clamp to the benchwork as you fine tune the grade. Then screw only for future adjustments.
    - pay attention to perpendicular-to-track level using a stringline level

    Not mentioned:
    - avoid diving board overhang situations where your bridges will be -have a riser within 1-2 inches of the future bridge abutment.
    ---- If you have a riser right at the end of the bridge space, the future abutment can be attached directly to the riser for super stability.
    - too much grade transition can cause the subroadbed between the previous two risers to bow/flex, skewing your previously perfect grade.
    - keep the subroadbed screw to the side of the ply, not under the cork, so that you can adjust it later in the future as you test run track.
    - if there is no direct room for a riser below the track, you can use an upside-down L to support the track from off center.

    You can see examples of all of these in my build:

    2017-08-12 12.07.35.jpg

    (future bridges are represented by the dimensional lumber strips on temporary abutments)



    Using lots of clamps to figure out the right heights and support pieces.
    2017-08-03 22.46.26.jpg
    Peter

    Layout Depot (share your designs with others): www.LayoutDepot.com
    My Build Thread: www.nscale.net/forums/showthread.php?28081-Green-Valley-Railway

  31. The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to pbechard For This Useful Post:


Similar Threads

  1. Inserting Risers
    By wombat457 in forum Modeling Techniques
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 24th Sep 2018, 02:26 AM
  2. Attaching Kato Unitrack to roadbed
    By KajusTheCat in forum Trackage
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 22nd Dec 2015, 11:39 PM
  3. Foam risers
    By mexrailroaderlee in forum Trackage
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 17th Sep 2015, 03:33 PM
  4. Expanding roadbed on Woodland Scenic risers.
    By Fatboy in forum Modeling Techniques
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10th Mar 2015, 09:57 PM
  5. Another foam roadbed vs cork roadbed question...
    By Screwjack in forum Layouts, Design, & Planning.
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 9th Feb 2012, 04:55 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •