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Thread: Attaching sub roadbed to risers?

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    Default Attaching sub roadbed to risers?

    Just out of curiosity, do you guys secure your sub roadbed to "every riser" or just some of them, for example every second riser?
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    When I built layouts with risers, every single one. No reason to borrow trouble later on.

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    Good point and thanks.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    What Paul said. I like to have a riser every foot or so if possible too. Makes it easier to lay out a grade using my "block of stripwood taped to the bottom of a level" technique.
    "Do Not Hump!?!?! Does that mean what I think it means?!?"--Michelle Blanchard

    "People saw wood and say nothing, but railroad men saw trains and say things that are better left unprinted."--Charles De Lano Hine

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    Thanks and my risers come out to about a 12" spacing as well. Looks as though I have to make a few more holes then
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Glue, and screw every one! Double protection!
    My build thread: https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...t-do-you-think


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    Moose glued and screwed every riser as well...
    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)

    "Beware the Train of Thought that Carries no Freight..."

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    Have been doing exactly that gluing and screwing all those I hadn't already screwed down
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    You all need to quit screwing around!

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    seems a bit like that at times huh ...
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    As one who has no experience with this mode of construction, I would think that you would need to be very careful that tightening screws does not distort the grade of the subroadbed.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    That is something that you need to be careful of.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by el Gato Gordo View Post
    As one who has no experience with this mode of construction, I would think that you would need to be very careful that tightening screws does not distort the grade of the subroadbed.
    I found it easiest to use a C clamp to hold the riser in approximately the correct position, screw the roadbed to the riser, then make adjustments to the grade by moving the riser and clamping it well before screwing the riser to the benchwork. You can never have enough clamps.
    "Do Not Hump!?!?! Does that mean what I think it means?!?"--Michelle Blanchard

    "People saw wood and say nothing, but railroad men saw trains and say things that are better left unprinted."--Charles De Lano Hine

    Down with UP

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    ranulf,

    I agree whole heartedly and that is what I do as well.

    I think the issue that Gordon may be referring to is screwing the sub road bed into a "flat level surface" when that sub roadbed needs to follow a grade. It is inevitable that screwing something on a grade to a level flat surface will effect the grade where screwed. Only way to avoid that is to "bevel" the top of the risers to the same angle as the grade, and that would take a lot of work for possibly little gain or effect.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    One thing you need to do before screw the riser to the joist, is to make sure that it level across the roadbed (90 degrees to where the track is being laid). I use a cheap stringline level that is perfect for n scale roadbed width.
    Rodney

    Here is my build of my n-scale railroad
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...-50-8-quot-%29

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    Oops, guess who forgot to do that. Wouldn't be a problem except I had to glue some risers in position due to their locality I am going to guess that I may have some unintentional "super elevated" curves.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    I screw and glue risers to my roadbed, but only screw to the joists. Iíve had to move some risers to make changes, and itís nice to be able to adjust the risers by simply unscrewing them.

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    It is and I will be able to do that with the majority of mine. Murphy's Law though, the ones that may need to moved will undoubtedly be the ones I glued. If that is the case, I hope they have to go UP and not down.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Through trial and error I've pretty much settled and agree with all of the above points.

    - have a riser every 12-16 inches
    - screw and glue subroadbed into every riser
    - don't worry too much about over-tightening that screw - our grades are gentle enough and the ply absorbs the angle
    - clamp to the benchwork as you fine tune the grade. Then screw only for future adjustments.
    - pay attention to perpendicular-to-track level using a stringline level

    Not mentioned:
    - avoid diving board overhang situations where your bridges will be -have a riser within 1-2 inches of the future bridge abutment.
    ---- If you have a riser right at the end of the bridge space, the future abutment can be attached directly to the riser for super stability.
    - too much grade transition can cause the subroadbed between the previous two risers to bow/flex, skewing your previously perfect grade.
    - keep the subroadbed screw to the side of the ply, not under the cork, so that you can adjust it later in the future as you test run track.
    - if there is no direct room for a riser below the track, you can use an upside-down L to support the track from off center.

    You can see examples of all of these in my build:

    2017-08-12 12.07.35.jpg

    (future bridges are represented by the dimensional lumber strips on temporary abutments)



    Using lots of clamps to figure out the right heights and support pieces.
    2017-08-03 22.46.26.jpg
    Peter

    Layout Depot (share your designs with others): www.LayoutDepot.com
    My Build Thread: www.nscale.net/forums/showthread.php?28081-Green-Valley-Railway

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