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Thread: ESU LokSound Micro Direct Install ...

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    Default ESU LokSound Micro Direct Install ...

    The ESU decoders and speakers arrived this morning, despite something like 10" of snow, and I was surprised just how small these decoders really are, not to mention the speakers and chambers.



    Although the speakers came with the chambers, I have had to "bevel" the inside edges of the chambers to get the speakers to fit, what I think, properly. In other words, to get the speaker itself (not the black surround) to sit down in the chamber.

    Now for the unnerving side of this - "milling" the frame for the decoder to sit properly:



    I still need to remove a bit more from the right circled side so I can locate that end of the decoder into the slides and be able to drop the front down into those left side slides/catches. All I have to do now is find my dremel battery charger and I'll be back in business.

    Once the frame is milled/formed for the decoder, there is "plenty of room" at the rear of the engine for the speaker to sit. In fact, I probably could have gotten a size larger speaker and still had room to play with.

    How long this will take to complete will depend on how long it takes me to locate my charger

    Caveat - although I am obviously doing the work, I am following the diagrams of Mark W's installation guide on "therailwire.net"
    Last edited by wombat457; 16th Nov 2018 at 01:45 PM.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Found my charger but in the meantime I have a question about the speakers or more to the point where to solder the speaker wires to them.



    Are the "brass knobs" (circled) the points to which the wires are soldered? Secondly, what gauge wire would you suggest? I think I have 30 gauge, is that going to be too big?
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Those look like the correct solder points, and 30 should work well.
    N scale CPR Kootenay Division, started May 2011!
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    Got the "milling" finished:



    With the decoder sitting in place:





    I did take a little too much out of right hand side so there is nothing actually holding the decoder down now. I'll have to use Kaplon Tape (I think) to keep it in place and rely on the motor tabs as well. Hopefully it wont effect the decoders operation?
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Trainboy,

    Thanks, this is my first "sound and ESU install" so want to double check pretty much everything as I go or - before I do what I "think" is right
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Back to the Speaker/Chamber installation part. Does this look right for the speaker attachment to the chamber?



    If it is, I am assuming that I adhere the speaker to the chamber with CA Glue - is that okay to do, just a drop on each side of the unit?

    Lastly, does it matter which side of the speaker is wired to which side of the decoder. Better put, does one side of the speaker HAVE TO be attached to a particular side of the decoder?
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Tony, that's some fine milling you did by hand there!

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    Quote Originally Posted by kingmeow View Post
    Tony, that's some fine milling you did by hand there!
    Thank you - it's amazing what you can do with a Dremel and having everything controlled by absolute, un-contained FEAR of screwing up That aside, and because I have not done anything like this before, I did things very slowly and just a little at a time constantly checking things, which (in hindsight) could have been better.

    My main concern was where all the metal filings were going. I'd do a little, then blow everything clean hoping that nothing got down where it could foul anything. I guess I'll know that when the time comes to see if it all works.

    Quote Originally Posted by Moose2013 View Post
    @wombat457

    Tony, the wiring should not matter. Moose suggest using a silicone based, not CA glue.
    Thanks Moose so ahh some basic every day silicone sealer or similar then?

    Actually, I have just looked at backing paper that the decoder was packed with ... as it turns out, that is a fairly comprehensive and very clear (pictures for us 2 year olds) instruction guide. Also found two lengths of wire and 2 LED's to boot. Because there are the LED's included, I'm now assuming I have to solder them to the decoder as well if I want lights that is

    Glad I looked as I was about to throw it all out.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    I would use water based caulking instead of silicone (the ones that smell like vinegar). The vapor is corrosive to electronics as they are acidic cured. If you must use silicone, get the ones that are safe for electronics.

    The ones you buy at big box stores like HD or Lowes are acidic cured.

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    Yep, I'm with @kingmeow on that. And Kapton tape should not affect anything adversely.

    But well done, Tony!

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    Tony,

    Great job!! I told you it wasn't that hard. Your milling looks really good. I use CA when gluing my sugar cubes to the baffles. All the advice given is sound, just make sure it is sealed all the way around. Don't tack it by putting glue on each side. Make sure it covers all sides and corners. As long as you are not running more than one speaker then the + and - don't matter. solder them on and rock on. I usually throw some liquid electrical tape over the solder points so there's no issues with contacting the frame.

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    Thanks Paul. So far so good now to remove the "Motor Tabs" from the factory light board and solder them to the ESU followed by the lights then the speaker. Because the speaker assembly sits at the same hieght as the decoder, I don't think I will able to put the rear light in unless I can route the legs of the LED over (or around) the speaker assembly. I'm open to suggestions for that.



    The speaker assembly is just sitting there, it isn't attached.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Can you post a pic of the LED?

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    Olie,

    Thanks mate and yep you did say it was easy. I'm still not sure if I would consider it easy but it certainly isn't as hard as some people (not in these forums) made it look with basically stripping the engine down and removing the frame and engine and all sorts of weird and wonderful things.

    The only thing I am trying to figure out now is how to attach the speaker assembly to the frame. If you look at the above picture, the assembly is sitting over a brass plate and there is nothing behind that plate, just open space. Only place I can see where there is a solid base on which to adhere the assembly is right at that back and that would definitely eliminate the rear light.

    Dropping some liquid tape on the solders is a good idea, one I might try.

    Moose, thanks and I suspected you meant water based caulk
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Olie View Post
    Can you post a pic of the LED?
    Yep ... it's easy, you take a picture of it and embed that picture here thereby causing the LED to be posted as a picture ...
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Can you put the speaker to the roof of the shell? Double sided tape so it hangs right where it sits now?

    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    Yep ... it's easy, you take a picture of it and embed that picture here thereby causing the LED to be posted as a picture ...
    Wise guy....

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    Okay, these are the LED's that came with the decoder:



    This is the diagram of the decoder with LED's attached:

    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Olie View Post
    Can you put the speaker to the roof of the shell? Double sided tape so it hangs right where it sits now?



    Wise guy....
    I don't know but that is certainly a thought and would be an easy fix for both concerns!! Only thing I see as a problem is if I ever needed to remove the shell for any reason, I'd have to ensure there was enough wire to allow that to happen???
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Moose2013 View Post
    @wombat457

    Would liquid electrical tape be sufficient to hold the speaker assembly in place?
    Moose, that's also worth a thought. I did buy two extra speakers and chambers so I could see if it would adhere to the chamber and the frame.

    If the chamber wasn't as "tall" I could sit the whole assembly beneath the over hang of the decoder. I guess I could shave a mm off the top of the chamber although I don't know what effect that might have on the sound???
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    I don't know but that is certainly a thought and would be an easy fix for both concerns!! Only thing I see as a problem is if I ever needed to remove the shell for any reason, I'd have to ensure there was enough wire to allow that to happen???
    Yep, just make the wire longer to each giving yourself enough to remove the shell and set next to the frame.

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