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Thread: bicknell's RIP track

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    Default bicknell's RIP track

    Cars break. At a show I don't take any time to investigate, I just put them on the RIP track, which is really a section of a box. I've collected a few so it was time to repair. I thought I would share some of what ends up on my RIP track and how I fix them.



    Oh my, that coupler got totally smashed into the box. I wonder if this one fell on the floor or something. Looking under I see this is also one of my experiments with low-profile brown wheels. I like the brown, did not like the low profiles.



    To get this CSX box car back on the road I simply swapped both trucks for some new MT trucks. Fixed the coupler and the low-profile wheels all in one shot.

    Next up, a flat car with some couplers that no longer center:



    The couplers on both ends just flop around in space. Turning it over we see these are body mounts with a nice screw.



    Alas, I don't have the right coupler to replace these, so it will stay on the RIP track for now and some couplers go on the shopping list.

    I found a lot of AccuMates with low trip pins. I'll spare the pictures of those. They are easy to fix, just a little squeeze of the pliers.

    These auto-parts cars frustrate me, their couplers droop:



    They have these crazy long swinging couplers though, and I don't know any way to make them better....



    Finally, I have three cars with this problem:



    The etched metal roof walk just doesn't expand and contract at the same rate as the plastic, and/or the adhesive was not strong enough. Anyone have a technique to fix this? On the surface it's simple, just glue it down. But with what adhesive? And how to hold it in place?
    --
    Leo Bicknell

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    Quote Originally Posted by bicknell View Post
    Anyone have a technique to fix this?
    Update the car to a more modern era by removing the roof walk?

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    Canopy glue works great for the roof walk, when it dries no shinny glue residue.
    My favorite computer game is "Stump The Spellchecker"...
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/images/Flags/USA/Ohio.png

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzbass01 View Post
    Canopy glue works great for the roof walk, when it dries no shinny glue residue.
    I did not even know this stuff existed, but a quick google turned up this: http://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/20...nopy-glue.html

    I will be attempting to purchase some and use it to fix my 3 roof walks showing this problem and will report back!
    --
    Leo Bicknell

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    That flatcar takes the guts from a 1015 if it helps any
    Did someone say whitcomb?

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    I bought some canopy glue and went to use it and made a discovery! See the little backwards L shaped protrusion on the roof walk from the brake wheel towards the side ladder? That's the car plastic. There's an L shape moulded in the roof of each car that the roof walk snaps over. And now we know why it buckled, clearly the roof walk is a few thousands too far for the distance between the L shapes on each end causing it to buckle in the middle! I'm not quite sure how they ever expected that to work well, metal and plastic do not expand and contract at the same rate.

    I'm now pondering my solution. My current thinking is on one end only to remove the part perpendicular to the rails with an xacto, and then shorten slightly the piece parallel to the rails but leave it protruding. This leaves a "left to right" tab on each end of the car, and a "back to front" tab only on one end. But I thought I'd run that idea past the collective wisdom here first.

    --
    Leo Bicknell

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    Leave one for orientation and remove the other to prevent binding in the future would be what I’d do, as well as using the canopy glue to hold the other end. It flexes and even peels off if needed.
    SP & 53
    Daylight and Overnight

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