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Thread: My Wifes' New Layout ....

  1. #41
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    The "base" for the abutments are in place and ready for the plaster:



    They look a bit ragged but will be okay once they get a cover of plaster.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodsup9000 View Post
    The rock face turned out fantastic. Let us know how it was done, Tony
    Thank you Rodney, it isn't hard but this is how I did it:

    1. The plaster was put on haphazardly with a small putty knife/spatula

    Once that dried I:

    1. Gave the plaster a coat of WS Stone Grey and let it dry.
    2. Then blotched on WS Earth Undercoat followed immediately by
    3. WS Yellow Orchre
    4. Left it for a few minutes then gave it a wash of micro-mark Brown Weathering liquid and let dry
    5. Finally, I gave it all a fairly decent wash of 1:10 Indian Ink/Water

    That's all there was to it.

    The Brown Wash made the WS Earth and Ochre run a bit and merge into one another so it didn't end up being just blobs of brown and yellow. The Indian Ink/Water darkened it all a little but made the cracks and small shelves stand out a bit more.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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  5. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by wombat457 View Post
    Thank you Rodney, it isn't hard but this is how I did it:

    1. The plaster was put on haphazardly with a small putty knife/spatula

    Once that dried I:

    1. Gave the plaster a coat of WS Stone Grey and let it dry.
    2. Then blotched on WS Earth Undercoat followed immediately by
    3. WS Yellow Orchre
    4. Left it for a few minutes then gave it a wash of micro-mark Brown Weathering liquid and let dry
    5. Finally, I gave it all a fairly decent wash of 1:10 Indian Ink/Water

    That's all there was to it.

    The Brown Wash made the WS Earth and Ochre run a bit and merge into one another so it didn't end up being just blobs of brown and yellow. The Indian Ink/Water darkened it all a little but made the cracks and small shelves stand out a bit more.
    Thanks Tony, looks like I need to get some more paint.
    Rodney

    Here is my build of my n-scale railroad
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...-50-8-quot-%29

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    Mot a problem Rodney and thanks for the kind words. I use the stone grey as most of the rocks around my area are grey slate. So, the color of the rocks in your area will determine the "base color" for you.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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  9. #45
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    I have the paints for color matching rock in the canyon, but need to get some of the WS Earth and Ochre
    Rodney

    Here is my build of my n-scale railroad
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...-50-8-quot-%29

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    Got the inside half of the abutments plastered:





    Once this has dried I can turn it all around and do the back side. It all looks a bit rough at the moment but some of the "spiky bits" will be knocked of and molded a little less aggressively during the finishing of them.

    Have also started the plastering for the river/stream bed beneath the bridge. That, needless to say, will continue on as I get the land elevations in place. It too looks too jagged at present but will be "smoothed" out a little as it is built up with appropriate "rocks" and so forth added to the wet plaster.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Found another set of Single Tunnel Portals so here they are:





    Will be putting them in later today.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Figured out the inside wall for the Tunnels, this is what I will be using:



    This is how they will be positioned:









    Once they have dried, I will putting Dry Wall Self Adhesive Patch over them. That will provide structural integrity for the wood and give me a good base to plaster over.

    Once the tunnels are completed, I tart working on the "main" area terrain
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    @wombat457

    Tony, do you need to check lateral clearances for the over-hangs of locomotives and passenger cars going through the tunnels?
    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)

    "Beware the Train of Thought that Carries no Freight..."

    "Reading is for morons who can't understand pictures..."

    Click Here to See Moose's Layout Thread

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    Moose, have checked all of that and there is 5/16th to 1/2" between the rails and the tunnel walls either side. II now have both tunnel walls completed, or rather - in place:

    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    This is kind of how it will look when done:



    The entrance and inside of tunnel:



    Obviously, I have a little bit of "track cleaning work" to do before I install the roof
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Looks great! I wish my tunnel interior looked that good.

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    Olie, it isn't hard to do - a bit of plaster and a few paints. Once the plaster dries, it only takes about 20 minutes to do the painting/weathering. Play around with a few colors and you'll be surprised what you can come up with. The hard part is remembering how you did it

    One thing I am thinking about doing is forming the "roof" out of styrene and inserting a light half way along OR one light at each end of each tunnel. Why might I do that? Why not -
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    That would look awesome!

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    Coming along nicely. Tunnel looks great.

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    Completed the right side tunnel roof:



    Have pre drilled two holes for SMD LED's if I do put them in. I am in two minds whether to leave the interior of it painted black or use a little plaster to give it texture. Main concern is whether the plaster will stick (and hold) to the styrene?

    Just completed the other tunnel roof which looks the same as the one above so didn't think another picture was needed

    Also finished plastering the tunnel walls and the start of the river, building the plaster up at the edge so the "Real Water" stayed on the layout and doesn't create an unwanted "off the layout" waterfall.

    Next step is to put the LED's into the tunnel roof and paint the inside walls of the tunnel. I think they (the tunnels) will then be fully finished and the whole thing can go up onto the brackets where it belongs and will live
    Last edited by wombat457; 27th Nov 2018 at 06:18 PM.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Prime the styrene first and then use a light weight plaster

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    After numerous newly learnt words I got the lighting in for one of the tunnels, and what a pain in the you know what it is to do! None the less, here it is:





    On the tunnel:







    Obviously, the wiring for these will be covered with scenery so if they blow then they'll be history. Can't come with a way of keeping the wiring exposed unfortunately.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Make a channel - the depth of the styrofoam over the tunnel terminating before it reaches the inner edge, and make a wiring run channel in a styrofoam "key" to fit the slot and then make that key removable by not glueing down styrofoam over the slot?

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    Feed the wires through a small straw or coffee stir stick. Then add scenery to make it look like a tree blown down. Another way is to paint them earth or vegetation colors "bury" them in the scenery. Magnet wire is easier to hide then plastic coated.

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