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Thread: WS Latex Rubber?

  1. #21
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    Should have added that, I made the mold on styrene with an 1/8" box around it to keep the latex around the portal - THAT I did remember to do.

    So, being perfectly honest, the biggest downside to this stuff is the time it takes to make the mold as well as how "pliable/flimsy it is when dry. The latter I can live with; however, the time is another story for me. The only other thing I have to question is how resilient the mold is, how long it will last before having to make another.

    I have previously used "Smooth-On Silicone Rubber" ( a 2 part mix) and that was excellent. Mix the two parts, pour it over the thing (in a box) you want a mold off and half an hour later it was done with an almost exact replication of the original. I think that is what I will go back to, regardless of the cost, for future molds.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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  3. #22
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    Although this WS stuff does a good job, it takes too long to create a usable mold; as such, I have ordered 2 packs of this:



    and a can of this:



    All up, the mold material will give me 3.9 lbs of molding compound at approximately 25 sq inches per pound usage. That should be plenty to make molds of both single and double tunnel portals.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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  5. #23
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    The correct materials arrived and the first mold is made:











    Just need to clean up/trim the excess and it will be ready for the first cast.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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  7. #24
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    The left side looks off from the pic , hopefully is just the pic angle

    Steve

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    Neither actually, the lighter colored part of that side is excess where the rubber bleached beneath the portal. It is a very thin "lip" sitting over the mold. That is what needs to be cleaned off. When it is, the "true mold" will be revealed.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Here is the first casting ...



    Mine on the left, original on the right.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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  12. #27
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    Looks like a pale copy of the original.... But by Jove, I think you've got it!
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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  14. #28
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    Thanks Gordon and yeah, I think the Chooch ones have a coloring added to whatever the make them from. I can do the same thing, add a little coloring powder to the Dental Stone but hey, paint works just as well.

    The idea now is to "cut" mine in half and add about 1/4" to the middle then make another mold of that. I noticed with the Chooch portals, the lateral clearances are pretty tight and don't allow much room for error. Hopefully adding a 1/4" will eliminate that.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

  15. #29
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    Looks great, Tony. Thanks for posting this.
    Paul Schmidt

    Southern Railway's Slate Fork Branch


    Proud member of the Milwaukee Road Historical Association and the Southern Railway Historical Association

    Check out Appalachian Railroad Modeling!

    Did l mention that I still like the SP&S?

  16. #30
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    Thanks Paul and your welcome.

    The first cast out of a new mold made of Smooth-On tends to be a little off to be honest. The more the mold gets used, the more solid the cast.

    Just for information, I don't use a release agent when using Dental Stone so there is no residual that needs to be cleaned from the casting, although, once 100% cured, I do give them a quick wash with dawn and warm water.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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  18. #31
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    The enlarged by 1/4" Single Portal:



    Needs a bit of a cleanup but didn't turn out too badly .. kind of looks rustic in a way
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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  20. #32
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    First cast of the Pikestuff Concrete Steps:





    Not as clean as the original but I think the "missing bits" give them a more aged, well used look.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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  22. #33
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    I like it. You're right, the "chips" give it a worn look.

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    Thanks Olie and I now think I have everything I need a mold for done, unless something else pops up but I'm pretty happy with the results
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Those bubble impressions do look like chipped or imperfections Tony.
    I'd take a knife and make them a little more uneven to add to the distressed look!
    The Little Rock Line blog


    “Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlin

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    Allen,

    Good idea ... the distressed look ... maybe my picture on them then

    Am considering "scrapping" out a little from each tread as well, make them look worn from decades of use.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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    Looks good. I have been following this thread with trepidation. I purchased, online, 2 bottles of WS latex rubber just before this thread started. I will try it and see how it goes. If I do not like it, I will try the above product.

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  31. #38
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    FrankieD,

    Latex Rubber (any brand) may be good for some things but when it comes to making molds that are solid you can't go past a "proper" mold making material, be it Smooth-On or any other brand. Latex Rubber may be good for making molds of a rock or similar but, in my opinion, not much else.

    Consider this, it took 3 days to form the WS Latex Rubber Mold due to the need of having to brush the stuff on in layers and let it fully dry between layers. It requires at the very least 3 layers resulting in a very thin flimsy skin like mold, or the adding of some fine material between layers to achieve any sort of solidity. Smooth-On took 1 hour from start to having a usable solid "block" mold. Having a usable, solid, mold in an hour (if you use what I bought) compared to 3 (or more) days for Latex Rubber is well worth the price paid. To be honest, 2 bottles of WS Rubber Latex comes to about $36 ... the Trial Pack of Smooth-On Mold Star 16 was also about $36 and that is enough material for the molds I need to make.

    As said, Latex Rubber might work well for some things and might work well for you as it has for others, but at the end of the day, I prefer the ease of using and the quality of the Smooth-On molds, not to mention how quickly a mold can be formed and then used.
    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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  33. #39
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    Tony, are these Smooth-On molds flexible? That is, if I were to take a casting of a section of platform which has an overlapping lip on the top ]____[ (up side down, to get the details of the platform), would I be able to peel the mold away from my casting?
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    Gordon,

    Yes the molds are firm BUT also pliable. You'd sit what you wanted a mold of inside a "box", leaving about 1/4 - 1/2 around all sides of the object, the right way up then pour the mix onto that item. The mixture flows into every nook and cranny; although, giving it a gentle shake/vibration always helps. Once the mold has set, all you need to do it "pop" th original item out of it so yes, removing the original platform with a lip shouldn't be an issue.



    Cheers Tony

    "Knowing what to do is one thing ... being able to do it is another"
    "It is easy to criticize ... a lot harder when you have to justify it"

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