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Thread: Uncoupling for operations?

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    Default Uncoupling for operations?

    Okay you folks who do "operations" and operating sessions, car sorting and all that. How do you uncouple cars? Do you uncouple by hand, or with some track mounted device?
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    By hand with modified wood skewers & Rix Picks
    The Little Rock Line blog


    “Never argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlin

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    Quote Originally Posted by Allen H. View Post
    By hand with modified wood skewers & Rix Picks
    Same for me.

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    Same as Allen H.
    Also took a Rix Picks and epoxied it to cheap flashlight for low light or night ops
    "It's not whats best......It's whats best for you"

    Gary

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    +1 for the skewer.

    I also want to try a little super magnet at the end of a skewer to - maybe - open the MTL couplers without touching. Haven't tried that yet... I will buy some super magnets for installing telephone poles, they should be the right size.

    Also someone tried taping a micro flashlight to a skewer to better see where he tried to uncouple. That's also a nice touch, but don't overdo it or it will be too heavy and too hard to manipulate into the couplers.

    Heiko

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    Quote Originally Posted by Heiko View Post
    Also someone tried taping a micro flashlight to a skewer to better see where he tried to uncouple. That's also a nice touch, but don't overdo it or it will be too heavy and too hard to manipulate into the couplers.
    Heiko
    That was me, and you're right, it's a bit cumbersome and sometime awkward to use.
    Some of the guys love them, others don't. The light is definitely nice.
    Need to figure a way to mount a SM LED to the Rix Picks or Skewer and power it.


    The Little Rock Line blog


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    So, no one uses any remotely controlled device?

    I realize that you guys use different couplers (knuckle), while I use Fleischmann Profi couplers, which decouple from underneath. I was just wondering how you did it. When I get my uncouplers functional I'll post a short video.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    Sorry, I totally forgot you weren't modeling US prototype with knuckle couplers, that changes things. I know our friends from the N-RE module standard also use their fingers, but then they run Rapido couplers and mostly two-axle cars which you can easily lift... no idea how people do that with Fleischmann Profi.

    Heiko

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    Skewers here also. I find that a real pointy skewer only needs to touch the couplers and they disengage. It's easier than HO where some twisting is needed.
    Funny thing, I bought a box of stuff from an estate sale. There were a number of remote uncoupling ramps for Rapido couplers in the box. I'm still trying to figure out a use for them.....
    Dave

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    I've been seeing posts about operating sessions and simply wondered how you guys manage it.

    I have a tank Lok that pulls 2 cars of a wine and beer tour museum train. German tank Loks are made to run forward or backwards from the front of the train. No need for a turntable or wye, just a passing siding. I'd like to be able to change the Lok from one end of the train to the other, remotely.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    Ric pix for me too. I have operated on layouts with undertrack devices and found them kinda annoying. You can only I could in certain spots and sometimes cars would uncouple unintentionally when passing over said devices.

    I’m not familiar with Profi couplers, so I’m no help there.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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    Rapido makes a uncoupeler for ho that can be used for n scale
    https://www.rapidotrains.com/on-off-remote-coupler/

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    Thanks, Michael, but that is for magnetic knuckle couplers. Doesn't work with Profi couplings. But that's okay. I have devices that work. I built a test bed to try them, I just have not completed installation on the layout.

    And before anyone asks, I don't remember the brand at the moment, and it is 18°F in the train room in the barn.

    Really, I was just curious about how the process was handled in N scale, stateside. I had an HO layout with magnetic uncouplers, so I know how they work. Just wanted to know whether they were any use in the better scale.

    Yeehaaa! Broncos!
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    For those of us who don't play with or model European trains, posting just the names of the couplers and asking about them, tells us nothing about them.

    Just had to throw that out there Gordon.....


    Got any pics or video?
    The Little Rock Line blog


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    I'd have preferred knowing beforehand what couplers you used, @el Gato Gordo. Never heard of "Profi" brand before today. It would have added context to your question.

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    Sorry, Paul. I can see how my original post could be misunderstood. I wasn't looking for a solution to a problem on my own layout, merely posing questions I had been pondering for some time. Not being into operations, I often wonder how "the other 85% " live.

    The magnetic uncouplers in HO scale worked okay most of the time, but I could imagine difficulties being magnified in N scale.
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    https://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    I use skewers and no remote uncoupling, for a number of reasons.


    1. Cost and effort of installation. Skewers are cheap!
    2. Flexibility. While there are quite a few spots at the near end of leads that see regular uncoupling, in real life you can and will uncouple wherever is most convenient.
    3. Trip pin blues. Whether it's missing trip pins due to them falling out, or me removing them rather than fixing low-hanging ones, or that they're other brands of couplers, it's an extra nuisance to make sure all rolling stock has them.
    4. Annoyance and effort for operations. If it's a permanent magnet, you're going to see random separations. If it's an electromagnet, you're going to have to switch it on and off.


    Really, the reason you would have them is simply so you wouldn't have to handle your rolling stock or skewers. If this is important to you personally, I would consider it.
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    I use magnetic uncoupling. Its frustrating when it doesn't work and nice when it does. I've spent a lot of $ converting to MTL trucks as they work better than anything else, and I've spent a lot of time doing things like puffing greasem into the coupler boxes on cars that don't cooperate to try and fix them.

    I have a hypothesis: there is too much slop in the wheel gauge relative to the rails, too much wiggle and thus imprecise positioning of the trip pins toward the opposite rail, for magnetic to be reliable.

    Maybe the best approach would be to design a coupler that is easy to uncouple with a pick.

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