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Thread: Weekend Update (14th Dec 2018)

  1. #41
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    nekoosa.gif

    So, working on decals, I was able to find this image above.
    It's pretty clean, so I have no doubt I'll be able to use it. I'm grateful for that.

    showimage.php-13.jpeg

    That font though... Ugh... I don't know font terminology, so I don't even know what to search for...
    It's a very distinctive style. The "S" in particular... SO MANY fonts have the ends of the "S" turn in more.
    These are nearly flat, and I suspect are, considering I had to stretch the image to get the logo to square up.

    Anyone know a computer font or something where I can find a text style like this one... Otherwise I'm gonna have to draw the letters.

    thumbnail.jpg

    This amused me...
    I repainted a formerly Great Northern locomotive to be my Nekoosa Papers loco, and Nekoosa was once owned by a similarly named company! T'was meant to be!

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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moose2013 View Post
    What, no photos? What's this forum coming to...
    I got on a roll and managed to finish up the rest of my layout over the weekend. Sorry, no photos

    -Mark

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  5. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spookshow View Post
    I got on a roll and managed to finish up the rest of my layout over the weekend. Sorry, no photos

    -Mark
    That's, Moose mean, ya can't just, awww, yer' supposed to, arrrggg...

    Moose going to have lunch. When Moose gets back, you've better have posted photos of that layout buddy!
    = > ÷

    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)


    "Beware the Train of Thought that Carries no Freight..." "Reading is for morons who can't understand pictures..."

    Click Here to See Moose's Layout Thread

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  7. #44
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    Ya know, Moose, some people get "work" done on the layout, some take pictures. And then there's Mark

    I did a test with my new supermagnets - 1mm diameter, 1mm in length: Drill a small hole in a telephone pole, push one in and it will stick to anything metal:




    For my modules, I'll probably install a second magnet into the module to add some extra holding force.

    This means I can build modules for modern times without telephone poles and still follow the standard which demands them (and also install them for olden times)

    Heiko
    Last edited by Heiko; 17th Dec 2018 at 06:01 PM. Reason: Dang! Where did those pictures go?

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  9. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moose2013 View Post
    Moose going to have lunch. When Moose gets back, you've better have posted photos of that layout buddy!
    Sorry, Mark make joke. No mean to confuse Moose! There are in fact one or two small areas left on my layout that still require a bit of polishing



    Hey look, I posted a picture of stuff that I didn't do. Brilliant!

    -Mark

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  11. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spookshow View Post
    Hey look, I posted a picture of stuff that I didn't do. Brilliant!
    Annnd yet, moose satisfying ... How odd...
    = > ÷

    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)


    "Beware the Train of Thought that Carries no Freight..." "Reading is for morons who can't understand pictures..."

    Click Here to See Moose's Layout Thread

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  13. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heiko View Post
    I did a test with my new supermagnets - 1mm diameter, 1mm in length: Drill a small hole in a telephone pole, push one in and it will stick to anything metal
    Brilliant! Another fine idea'r posted -- with photos Moose might, and in fact did, add...
    = > ÷

    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)


    "Beware the Train of Thought that Carries no Freight..." "Reading is for morons who can't understand pictures..."

    Click Here to See Moose's Layout Thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by Moose2013 View Post
    What, no photos?

    What's this forum coming to...
    Here ya go.becnchwork1.png becnchwork2.png
    Sexiest fat man alive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by richfiles View Post
    So, working on decals
    Are you going to print them yourself ?

    Thanks

    Tom

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  18. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomcook View Post
    Are you going to print them yourself? Thanks Tom
    Yes, that is the plan. I'm unaware of any company that sells Nekoosa related locomotive decals. I got a 10 pack of laser printer waterslide decal paper. I looked up my printer's specs, and It looks like I can quarter the sheets and feed the smaller size through without any trouble. I want to try to fill a sheet with decals and print a batch. I'll obviously be printing the Nekoosa and the missing portrait of Chief Sleepy Eye (NONE of the existing commercially available DME locomotive decal sets that I have found appears to include the image of the chief). I may spam some general DME hopper decals as well, so that I can re-decal a bunch of hoppers I bought a while back. I was gonna redo some Rock Island ones... Might not do them all though... Grain will continue to be a major revenue source for my Rock Island, and there's no reason my Rock Island would have to have sold ALL of their old grey hoppers off. I dunno... I want to focus my modern Rock Island on mostly the blue painted versions

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    You don't have to fill a sheet of decal paper . There's another way to print only a few decals. You print on ordinary paper first , you want to test run anyway , and then if all is to your liking with tape you stick a piece of decal paper right over the printed part of the paper ,then without changing anything to the subject you replace the paper and print again , just be sure you replace the paper the right way.
    As long as I can model in N-scale, I know I'm not old

    My Flickr Pages

    http://www.janbouli.com

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  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Janbouli View Post
    You don't have to fill a sheet of decal paper . There's another way to print only a few decals. You print on ordinary paper first , you want to test run anyway , and then if all is to your liking with tape you stick a piece of decal paper right over the printed part of the paper ,then without changing anything to the subject you replace the paper and print again , just be sure you replace the paper the right way.
    Sounds like good advice for someone with an inkjet printer, but I wouldn't dare try that in my laser printer. The fuser would almost certainly melt the tape, and the differing thickness might or might not be problematic for quality results from the toner transfer drum. That's doable for inkjet, I'm sure, but I gave up on inkjet in 2006 and never looked back. Too much hassles, and the ink don't last, or dries out. Never need to worry about that with toner. I got 6 years out of my first color laser printer on just the starter cartridges, and only ever replaced the black toner in it. Ran it for a decade before replacing the printer with my new one.

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    Oh NOOOOooooooooo!!!! It looks great, but clearly the locomotive trafficers have hit the GNR and seized another one!

    On a serious note, It's looking great! What decoder is that? Was that a custom milled chassis?

    Matt

    GNR Pitch Fork Pass






  25. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by GNMatz View Post
    Oh NOOOOooooooooo!!!! It looks great, but clearly the locomotive trafficers have hit the GNR and seized another one!
    On a serious note, It's looking great! What decoder is that? Was that a custom milled chassis? Matt
    I'm guessing you were replying to me, as I can only assume you've cried out at my formerly Great Northern locomotive being transformed into a custom Nekoosa paper mill repaint.

    To answer your questions, this is just a stock standard Atlas Alco S2 with a factory installed LokSound decoder. Besides paint, and eventual decals, no other mods have been done to this. As far as I'm aware, the decoder is manufactured by ESU for Atlas, specifically for use in this form factor locomotive. It looks like a longer, possibly narrower, version of the LokSound Select Micro, with some keep alive caps installed in the extra length. The factory chassis is made of metal for the long hood and plastic for the cab. They use the metal to maximize weight, since there is so little material in the chassis. The actually chassis is little more than the little bit that lies under the walkways, so not much mass otherwise. The metal shell helps a lot. As far as factory locomotives go, it's pretty nice!

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    Thanks rich!I have a Precision Craft that came from the factory with an ESU LokSound built in. They seem to be good decoders and have a lot of sound options. I became quite familiar with them after accidentally factory resetting mine. I also found that the LokSound software doesn't interface with Digitrax. I had to find the decoder's default settings (they came included in a list) and program them all in, then I had to open the decoder file in Lokprogrammer, and then between JMRI and Soundloader, to put it all back. Long story short... don't make the same dumb mistake I made. Now to go find one!!

    Cheers

    Matt

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    Mr and Mrs Moose take Sounder commuter train to Seattle this morning. And what do we are parked on an adjacent Amtrak siding at Kings Street Station but an old Sante Fe heavy weight coach!

    20181221_074731.jpg
    Last edited by Moose2013; 21st Dec 2018 at 01:55 PM.
    = > ÷

    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)


    "Beware the Train of Thought that Carries no Freight..." "Reading is for morons who can't understand pictures..."

    Click Here to See Moose's Layout Thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by Moose2013 View Post
    Mr and Mrs Moose take Sounder commuter train to Seattle this morning. And what do we are parked on an adjacent Amtrak siding at Kings Street Station but an old Sante Fe heavy weight coach!
    That couldn’t have happened,cause there are NO PICTURES​,,,,,mister!

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    Latest arrival, pre-ordered in august 2018, 9 months after the official end of pre-orders date. This is another reason I am rewinding the clock, I love the oldies

    image.jpg

    Of course Atlas doesn't send ANY documentation, only says NCE decoder.... so I have no idea which one to chose in JMRI


    UPDATE:

    Well, I found their instructions, which tell me nothing: https://shop.atlasrr.com/t-vo1000.aspx

    So I removed the shell and the only thing printed on the circuit board is "NCE VO-1000"

    Ok.

    So in JMRI I scrolled through the selections and found "NAVO" so I picked that, and now it's doing the loop

    If anyone else out the has the recent release of Atlas VO-1000's --- which obviously just barely shipped, I'd be interested to know more about programming.
    Last edited by zosimas; 21st Dec 2018 at 06:34 PM.
    ~ Charles

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    Found this on NCE's website, list of all the decoders and PDF's

    https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/...ecoder-Manuals

    turns I did pick the right decoder in JMRI :m:
    ~ Charles

    :shay:

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chicago Rail View Post
    That couldn’t have happened,cause there are NO PICTURES​,,,,,mister!
    Moose was not able to upload ... it's there now...
    = > ÷

    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)


    "Beware the Train of Thought that Carries no Freight..." "Reading is for morons who can't understand pictures..."

    Click Here to See Moose's Layout Thread

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