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Thread: old stock mid 70's

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    Default old stock mid 70's

    I'm just getting back in to model RR. I purchased a Kato starter kit but all of my old stock has a bigger wheel connector. It's much larger than the new Kato connectors. At first I thought I'd just replace the old connectors with the smaller ones but then I noticed that the newer ones are screwed on whereas the older ones are pinned.Im afraid I'm going to have lots more questions as I've been out of model RR for a few decades.

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    No problem. I came into N scale back in the late 70s, then in the late 80s, then again in the late 90s, and most recently in 2013. I still don't have it all figured out.
    N-joy!
    Tred - (USN-Ret.)
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    @jimf41

    Moose welcome you to the greatest wee n-scale forum on the interweb!

    Regarding "connectors", aka couplers or couplings, Micro-Trains provides numerous couplers as well as freight & passenger trucks for various conversions or replacements.

    See this link: https://www.micro-trains.com/index.p...ormation_id=10

    Consider reviewing their website to get an idea of what is possible.

    Others on this forum can offer you much more advice than this moose can at the moment...
    ~ Moose (Co-founder of the Mt. Tahoma & Pacific Railroad, located some where in the Pacific Northwest)

    "Beware the Train of Thought that Carries no Freight..."

    Click Here to See Moose's Layout Thread

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    Welcome back to the world's greatest hobby!

    Like you, I have a lot of older equipment that I began to purchase in the mid 1980s, and over the years I have had to find ways to get it onto my standard of Micro-Trains trucks and couplers with FVM metal wheels. A recent caboose project was such that I had to fabricate entirely new bolsters from thick styrene and then drill a hole to fit the bolster pin in. And of course, despite being careful, one pin hole is slightly too loose and the pin fell out while the caboose was riding around the club N-Trak layout back in November. I'll fix it somehow, just haven't got around to it yet, but my point is that renovating older rolling stock is definitely a challenge and can even be a sub-hobby in itself!

    I notice you're new, so you'll have to make a few more posts before you're able to post pics, but of course seeing some iPhone snaps of the condition you're describing will really enable us to help you better. So hopefully you'll find lots more threads to chime in on!

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    It looks like I've got a steep learning curve ahead. The last time I was into trains there were several hobby stores that featured trains within 5-10 miles of my home. Now it seems I'll have to go 15-25 miles to find a store. Not the end of the world but it's a little sad. Today I resurrected a Tech II 2500 from the attic I forgot I had it. Seems to work OK in one direction but very slow in the other. I was going to take it apart to see whats up inside but it seems to be held on with a TORX screw that's smaller than # 10. As far as the couplers go I'm putting that on the back burner till I learn a little more about the latest technology. You guys are a great help, I'll be asking lots of dumb questions in the future so please bear with me.

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    The screws in the 2500 are actually called "security" or "tamper proof" screws and they are a TORX screw with a little stud sticking up in the middle so a regular TORX bit won't go down into it. So, you need a #10 TORX driver with a hole in the middle of the end to fit over the little stud. These are readily available on eBay for very little money.

    You can get them at well-stocked hardware stores too but the stores in my area didn't have them.

    That being said, there really shouldn't be any difference in voltage level at a particular setting regardless of direction because the circuitry is the same up until the reversing switch and all that does is change the polarity. It just changes which rail positive goes to and which rail negative goes to.

    And, your question was not a dumb one. I remember the first time I ran into those screws and thought, "What the heck is going on" because you can't easily see the little stud sticking up in the middle.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    I have snapped that little pin off with a good tap from a small pin punch.

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    Usually its the loco that won't run the same speed in both directions, far more likely than a balky dpdt switch in the Tech II.

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    Get some plastic safe contact cleaner and have at it with the direction slide switch.

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    Unless it's more than one loco, it's the loco. The switches MRC uses are very unlikely to go bad. I have a 52 year-old 500N pack and the switches in it have never been touched, cleaned, lubricated or anything.

    I have used a drill and the little stud usually gets caught by the drill bit and gets snapped off or have used a punch and you can usualy snap off the stud/pin but it's a PITA to do that. get the special driver.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    Thanks guys, this is really a great blog for newbies like me. Sort of a newbie, I guess I'm an old guy in refresher training. The MRC was exposed to moisture in a flood that pretty much destroyed the house. I don't know if it was fully immersed or just exposed to high moister for awhile. The rolling stock I'm gradually cleaning up, the engines work ok after a little lube. Unfortunately all the Atlas track, switches, controllers etc were all thrown out. As for the MRC I'm going to take it apart and see if there is some corrosion on the direction switch. With no engine on the track if you advance the throttle the light goes bright green. If you switch direction the light flickers and is only half bright. I've got a set of TORX tamper proof drivers coming today so I'll let you know what the inside looks like.

    Now its off to the library to get a book on wiring. I can't remember how to insulate switches so you can two trains on connected tracks. On the old set up I had four separate but connected lines so I used to know how to do it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimf41 View Post
    Now it seems I'll have to go 15-25 miles to find a store.
    Your in pretty good shape. While there is a general hobby shop (mostly plastic models and R/C cars) close by, the closest train shop is 65 miles away, and the next one almost 90 miles. I do a lot of mail order. This is in the Charlotte, NC area, and Charlotte is a big city!
    Tim Rumph
    Modeling the Southern Railway in N-Scale

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    So, NOW you tell us it was in a flood.

    That's a whole other kettle of locos. Yes, take it apart and check it out.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim R View Post
    Your in pretty good shape. While there is a general hobby shop (mostly plastic models and R/C cars) close by, the closest train shop is 65 miles away, and the next one almost 90 miles. I do a lot of mail order. This is in the Charlotte, NC area, and Charlotte is a big city!
    25 miles on Long Island takes as long as 65 in Charlotte. Yesterday I found one on the Atlas website when I was looking for dealers and it was in the next town about 8 miles away. Got there and it was closed permanently. One of the best things I remember about MR was going into a train store and just looking at all the neat stuff. Shopping on the internet just isn't the same.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Gosha View Post
    So, NOW you tell us it was in a flood.

    That's a whole other kettle of locos. Yes, take it apart and check it out.

    Doug
    I did and the inside was immaculate. I think a little cleaner on the outside of the switch will do the trick if I move it back and forth for a bit. Any brand suggestions fo r the cleaner. I'm thinking ordinary Tuner Cleaner will work well or maybe WD-40.

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    Yeah, the switch contacts may have gotten a little corroded/dirty if exposed to high humidity for a while. De-Oxit is known as a really good contact cleaner and I can vouch for that. I might try WD-40 as that might be a little more aggressive on corrosion. Either would probably be fine. And, you want to actually get the cleaner inside the switch (easy with slide switches) to where the contacts are.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    NO to WD-40!!!! It's not a contact cleaner and it's not safe on plastic! It's an anti-sieze agent, not even a lubricant.

    Get proper contact cleaner like DeOxit or even tuner cleaner. There's a good and inexpensive one at Home Depot but the exact name escapes me at the moment. CRC something...

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    WD-40 is a petroleum derivative and CAN attack some plastics but, typically, it will not hurt materials used in electrical switches and such. I have used it before and it was fine. It really wasn't developed as a anti-seize agent but, rather, as a water displacement agent to spray into, say, distributors and such. Due to its petroleum base, it IS a lubricant but will eventually evaporate.

    Given a choice, I would use a product meant for electrical contact cleaning but WD-40 will work. There are many false myths floating around about WD-40, including that it has fish oil in it and that it will actually dissolve the very metal on which it's used.

    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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    Well the MRC problem is solved. After opening and inspecting it I closed it up and Presto! it works great in both directions. No CRC-WD-DeOxit needed. I've ordered a couple of those MT couplers just to see the time and expense involved in converting the old Rapido type couplers. I notice that 2" foam boards are popular now for the table. So much new stuff to explore.

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    Doug
    Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
    www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

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