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Thread: Kato Lighting Sets

  1. #1
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    Default Kato Lighting Sets

    I have seen two different versions of the Kato lighting sets for passenger cars being advertised. For the 6 piece set, one is 11-212 and the other is 11-214. I have read on other forums that the 11-212 is a whiter more fluorescent light, more suitable for modern cars, whereas the 214 is a bit more incandescent appearing. I have used the 212 in the past, and it does come with a small orange insert which is supposed to tone down the color a bit, but have not used the 214 variety. I'm inserting them into the UP City of Los Angeles.

    Any one have any experience with these?

    Thanks,

    Dan

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    In my experience, the orange insert on the 11-212 does not change anything. I tried, but ended up leaving those inserts out when I installed the set in my Excursion Train. Lights are pretty white, but not too much for my eyes. No experience with the 11-214 set here, but keep in mind the dome on the dome cars won't be lit.

    YMMV,
    Heiko

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    I also left out the orange insert on all 16 of my passenger cars when I installed them. I like the brighter light anyway.

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    I too left it off and like the brighter look. Only problem I have is they flicker a lot. Any way to fix that?

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    Put a thin layer of conductive grease between the truck and light pickup strips.
    I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HD...rb_top?ie=UTF8

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    Thanks I will try it.

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    I have the 11-212 kit on my cars. Looks like the only difference between the two is the LEDs in the 214 kits are warm white. After looking at the kits, I do remember they were fairly easy to install, all but one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveSteven View Post
    Put a thin layer of conductive grease between the truck and light pickup strips.
    I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HD...rb_top?ie=UTF8
    Lots of people use the stuff (very sparingly!!) on the track and reports are that it greatly improves conductivity and almost eliminates oxidation if applied correctly.
    i plan to treat my track with it.

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    Let us know how you like it. I ordered a jar but haven’t used it yet.

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    I have and use No-Ox ID and it works. Just make sure to apply it correctly and you'll definitely see good results.

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    Have a look at Evans Designs for lighting. I have used the company's LEDs with success.

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    I use the 214 and love them. They're great in most American passenger cars. They also have the orange plastic strip, which turns the warm white into an all out light orange. I highly recommended them.
    Starting over in N

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    I have nine various Kato passenger cars, and I'd equipped them all with the original (incandescent) bulbs instead of the LED's. With the 8x8 end-axle pickups and metal wheels, it was better than I'd seen before but not good enough. And with the old bubs, it' drew a LOT of current on a nine car train.

    I ended up pulling every last one of them and replacing them with the Rapido Easy-Peasy LED boards with the magnetic wand to turn them on and off. Not the cheapest way to got, but the results are rather amazing, really happy with them, as long as you doublecheck twice that they are all OFF when you are done. That's one sure way to end the flicker issue. Doing the Budd dome took some serious surgery, but other than that it was pretty much a drop-in effort.

    I went to a ridiculous effort to move the lit end drumhead (Amtrak) from the one trailing El Capitan coach over to another Kato single-level coach, one of the more insane projects I've done, and that still depends on pickup wipers and track power. I have to regularly clean the wheels and I hit the contact points and wiper contacts with Atlas Conductalube. That stuff really helps. That's my only remaining track-powered lighting car, even my cabooses are converted over to Richmond Controls that have the on-board capacitor to power the markers. That's another approach, no flicker at all when they charge up off of track power.

    I've still got all the Kato bulbs, light spreaders, reflectors, etc. if anybody wants any of those contact me.
    Randgust N scale kits web page at www.randgust.com

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    I did the 11-214s in my Daylight, they are color correct for pre-2005 fluorescents when you leave the insert out.
    Its only in the last 15 years that lighting manufacturers went to this “bright daylight” blue tinge to lights... which is what the 11-212 have.

    im very happy with the 214s, as they are very neutral in color.
    I also canopy glued them to the diffusers (except in front of the led, if you want incandescent, put some there too) and the diffusers to the stands. I also bent the led ‘legs’ slightly outward and forward, they make much better contact this way when they aren’t half recessed into the white plastic. Haven’t had any flicker problems, they have been rock solid, despite the internet horror stories. Dunno if it is the leg bending, or the glueing so they are rigid or a combo of both, but they sure worked for me!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    SP & 53
    Daylight and Overnight

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