Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 27 of 27

Thread: tinkering on a kato heavy mike

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    429
    Thanks
    19
    Thanked 387 Times in 205 Posts
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I had a few other things to do today...

    the pilot carrier beam frame part of not yet done
    so we did't take a photo.

    I have a memory of doing a lot of poking into boxes and stashes
    I think I am looking for a trailing truck... I should have one?

    and I made a clamp for a coupler box... just not much direct work.
    I set the loco to hauling the train last night and the time didn't seem to
    cause any 'break-in' problems or a dramatic freeing of the mechanism.
    and it did not warm the motor any.

    a MP pacific with traction tires could haul the train
    and the pewter chassis atlas/RR pacific could not.

    I am growing a fondness for MP Pacifics... dangit.

    maybe I'll run a shoot out; kato/ghq L1 vs my 'special' MP pacific.

    victor

  2. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to victor miranda For This Useful Post:


  3. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    429
    Thanks
    19
    Thanked 387 Times in 205 Posts
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I am sorting out how to assemble the cab of the loco.

    and I have to plan a way to make a head-lamp... not too sure about that task.

    the castings are quite good and is a study in how to make pewter castings.

    some photos are to be uploaded ... enh later.

    I did some comparisons using the current 18 car/brick train plus a caboose

    I ran a normal Kato mikado with traction-tires
    I got 1 minute and 4.6 seconds to do a lap... between 20 and 25 smph.
    230mA at 5.2 volts for a power rating of 1,196 mW
    this loco was warmer after a three lap run.

    the re-geared loco with traction-tires
    1 minute and 7.6 seconds for one lap --- tried for the same speed.
    160mA at 4.6 volts for a power rating of 736 mW

    after some tinkering and also working on the pilot
    and a day of running I got another run that was much the same.
    1 minute 2.8 seconds for a lap.
    170mA at 4.6 volts and a power rating of 782 mW
    the motor was not much warmer than ambient temp

    my atlas/RR pewter chassis loco would not pull the train and it slipped at 95 mA at 5.6 volts

    and last check was my favorite pacific re-motor and ball bearing loco.
    one minute and 4.4 seconds for a lap
    140 mA at 5.6 volts the power is 784 mW
    I left the loco running while I did some work on the GHQ kit
    and after an hour it was warm and nothing I'd be conderned about.

    some photos

    tender fit
    tender-frame-fitting.jpg

    pilot
    carved-pilot-frame.jpg
    I have tried to make kato pilot adapters in the past
    this one is carved out on my mill from one piece of 3.2mm(1/8 inch) of plastic sheet;
    I cutaway everything that didn't look like a pilot frame...
    gluing them up does work. I decided one piece would be better.

    I am not sure how I will sort out the tender.

    victor

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to victor miranda For This Useful Post:


  5. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Ariege, France
    Posts
    209
    Thanks
    667
    Thanked 393 Times in 113 Posts
    Mentioned
    17 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by victor miranda View Post
    I am not sure how I will sort out the tender.
    Hi Victor, Nice to hear that it's running well. For the tender, could you mill the Kato chassis flat ? Otherwise just make one out of thick styrene sheet. That's what I've ended up doing on all my builds. Often adapting things gets messy in my hands so it's neater and easier to just build from scratch.

    I want to see this here body kit mocked up. I must say it's very relaxing watching somebody else's 'build' come together
    Thanks, Tom

  6. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    429
    Thanks
    19
    Thanked 387 Times in 205 Posts
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I spent a bit of time trying to get parts to fit and look good.
    parts...
    some-progress.jpg

    or well... like the parts should the cab is ... erm... being difficult because I am not sure where all the angles will meet
    and I can find a way to hold it together while I decide where to file or cut.

    the smokebox face was easy. I squeezed the shell in a little and the face looks good.
    I had to file the shell front to have the face sit even.
    I have fitted or made sure of some parts going in the correct places

    I want my next epoxy session to have a few more parts available, as my last mix was used on only one part.
    the instruction say use medium superglue (not thin.) I like superglue for a lot of things
    however I can't imagine that one bang on the pilot will not pop it loose.
    so I am using epoxy. mmmuuph ... that cab is looking like superglue may be in order.

    I can't decide which brass part is the foot board for the smokebox face
    here is the fret and the instruction say there are 6 foot boards... I see 8 or 4 or three.
    the parts I think I should use are lower right
    brass-fret.jpg

    other opinions entertained.

    in addition to some drilling and a little gluing and growling at the cab.
    I think I am going to have to decide about making a headlamp.
    I have a tiny LED here ( quite a few really) and I guess I can
    drill out a headlamp casting. what a pain. however headlamps are rather nice.
    so I think I have a couple lamp casings I can try before I am out of options.

    there are 4 in his kit.. though they may be two different kinds.
    I am not going to lamp the markers. they get paint. maybe.

    victor

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to victor miranda For This Useful Post:


  8. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Ariege, France
    Posts
    209
    Thanks
    667
    Thanked 393 Times in 113 Posts
    Mentioned
    17 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by victor miranda View Post
    I like superglue for a lot of things
    however I can't imagine that one bang on the pilot will not pop it loose.
    Super glue 'Gel' works better on metal than the the super runny stuff. Give it a try on a test part and see what you think ? Reinforce any non visible joints to create a greater surface area. Works for me
    Thanks, Tom

  9. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    429
    Thanks
    19
    Thanked 387 Times in 205 Posts
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I hate gluing my fingers to my work.
    the shock type failures of superglues seems across the board for me.

    ... the cab may get me there anyway. I'll take a peek at my superglues
    and see if the medium thick bottle is congealed to rock. it has been a few years.

    I used to build model airplanes and they use a variety of superglues.

    victor

  10. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    429
    Thanks
    19
    Thanked 387 Times in 205 Posts
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I was wrong about the number of headlamp castings there are three.
    dunno what I saw that made me think there were 4

    I spent a rather long time gluing and removing glue from the cab

    and I ended up sticking the bac to the top and then adding the sides
    then gluing that to the floor and boiler.

    that got me what you see in the picture.

    I'll live with it.

    I bent the boiler casting in around the smokebox face to get that to
    look right.

    I added the handrail and it looks wrong. not sure what I did to get that outcome.
    hand drilled holes sometimes move?
    another I'll live with it.

    what is bothering me at the moment
    is that the pilot beam has moved down from my earlier work.
    the coupler was set pretty well to the right height.

    .... looking at the photo.... even lower may be the way to go.
    I do not like parts that self adjust. so I'll take a look at that again.
    progress.jpg

    victor

  11. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to victor miranda For This Useful Post:


Similar Threads

  1. MP Kato Mike reserve
    By zosimas in forum Product & Service Announcements
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 24th Jul 2015, 01:21 PM
  2. Kato Mike Tender
    By TVRR in forum Steam
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 1st May 2013, 04:29 PM
  3. kato heavy mike 2-8-2 traction drivers, where are you?
    By no comment in forum Product & Service Announcements
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12th Mar 2012, 12:00 AM
  4. Detail parts for Kato Heavy Mike
    By capnvic in forum Steam
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 15th Feb 2012, 01:08 PM
  5. Kato's 2-8-2 Heavy Mike
    By Pennsy Highballer in forum Steam
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 8th Jan 2012, 07:26 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •