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Thread: tinkering on a kato heavy mike

  1. #21
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    I had a few other things to do today...

    the pilot carrier beam frame part of not yet done
    so we did't take a photo.

    I have a memory of doing a lot of poking into boxes and stashes
    I think I am looking for a trailing truck... I should have one?

    and I made a clamp for a coupler box... just not much direct work.
    I set the loco to hauling the train last night and the time didn't seem to
    cause any 'break-in' problems or a dramatic freeing of the mechanism.
    and it did not warm the motor any.

    a MP pacific with traction tires could haul the train
    and the pewter chassis atlas/RR pacific could not.

    I am growing a fondness for MP Pacifics... dangit.

    maybe I'll run a shoot out; kato/ghq L1 vs my 'special' MP pacific.

    victor

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  3. #22
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    I am sorting out how to assemble the cab of the loco.

    and I have to plan a way to make a head-lamp... not too sure about that task.

    the castings are quite good and is a study in how to make pewter castings.

    some photos are to be uploaded ... enh later.

    I did some comparisons using the current 18 car/brick train plus a caboose

    I ran a normal Kato mikado with traction-tires
    I got 1 minute and 4.6 seconds to do a lap... between 20 and 25 smph.
    230mA at 5.2 volts for a power rating of 1,196 mW
    this loco was warmer after a three lap run.

    the re-geared loco with traction-tires
    1 minute and 7.6 seconds for one lap --- tried for the same speed.
    160mA at 4.6 volts for a power rating of 736 mW

    after some tinkering and also working on the pilot
    and a day of running I got another run that was much the same.
    1 minute 2.8 seconds for a lap.
    170mA at 4.6 volts and a power rating of 782 mW
    the motor was not much warmer than ambient temp

    my atlas/RR pewter chassis loco would not pull the train and it slipped at 95 mA at 5.6 volts

    and last check was my favorite pacific re-motor and ball bearing loco.
    one minute and 4.4 seconds for a lap
    140 mA at 5.6 volts the power is 784 mW
    I left the loco running while I did some work on the GHQ kit
    and after an hour it was warm and nothing I'd be conderned about.

    some photos

    tender fit
    tender-frame-fitting.jpg

    pilot
    carved-pilot-frame.jpg
    I have tried to make kato pilot adapters in the past
    this one is carved out on my mill from one piece of 3.2mm(1/8 inch) of plastic sheet;
    I cutaway everything that didn't look like a pilot frame...
    gluing them up does work. I decided one piece would be better.

    I am not sure how I will sort out the tender.

    victor

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    Quote Originally Posted by victor miranda View Post
    I am not sure how I will sort out the tender.
    Hi Victor, Nice to hear that it's running well. For the tender, could you mill the Kato chassis flat ? Otherwise just make one out of thick styrene sheet. That's what I've ended up doing on all my builds. Often adapting things gets messy in my hands so it's neater and easier to just build from scratch.

    I want to see this here body kit mocked up. I must say it's very relaxing watching somebody else's 'build' come together
    Thanks, Tom

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    I spent a bit of time trying to get parts to fit and look good.
    parts...
    some-progress.jpg

    or well... like the parts should the cab is ... erm... being difficult because I am not sure where all the angles will meet
    and I can find a way to hold it together while I decide where to file or cut.

    the smokebox face was easy. I squeezed the shell in a little and the face looks good.
    I had to file the shell front to have the face sit even.
    I have fitted or made sure of some parts going in the correct places

    I want my next epoxy session to have a few more parts available, as my last mix was used on only one part.
    the instruction say use medium superglue (not thin.) I like superglue for a lot of things
    however I can't imagine that one bang on the pilot will not pop it loose.
    so I am using epoxy. mmmuuph ... that cab is looking like superglue may be in order.

    I can't decide which brass part is the foot board for the smokebox face
    here is the fret and the instruction say there are 6 foot boards... I see 8 or 4 or three.
    the parts I think I should use are lower right
    brass-fret.jpg

    other opinions entertained.

    in addition to some drilling and a little gluing and growling at the cab.
    I think I am going to have to decide about making a headlamp.
    I have a tiny LED here ( quite a few really) and I guess I can
    drill out a headlamp casting. what a pain. however headlamps are rather nice.
    so I think I have a couple lamp casings I can try before I am out of options.

    there are 4 in his kit.. though they may be two different kinds.
    I am not going to lamp the markers. they get paint. maybe.

    victor

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    Quote Originally Posted by victor miranda View Post
    I like superglue for a lot of things
    however I can't imagine that one bang on the pilot will not pop it loose.
    Super glue 'Gel' works better on metal than the the super runny stuff. Give it a try on a test part and see what you think ? Reinforce any non visible joints to create a greater surface area. Works for me
    Thanks, Tom

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    I hate gluing my fingers to my work.
    the shock type failures of superglues seems across the board for me.

    ... the cab may get me there anyway. I'll take a peek at my superglues
    and see if the medium thick bottle is congealed to rock. it has been a few years.

    I used to build model airplanes and they use a variety of superglues.

    victor

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    I was wrong about the number of headlamp castings there are three.
    dunno what I saw that made me think there were 4

    I spent a rather long time gluing and removing glue from the cab

    and I ended up sticking the bac to the top and then adding the sides
    then gluing that to the floor and boiler.

    that got me what you see in the picture.

    I'll live with it.

    I bent the boiler casting in around the smokebox face to get that to
    look right.

    I added the handrail and it looks wrong. not sure what I did to get that outcome.
    hand drilled holes sometimes move?
    another I'll live with it.

    what is bothering me at the moment
    is that the pilot beam has moved down from my earlier work.
    the coupler was set pretty well to the right height.

    .... looking at the photo.... even lower may be the way to go.
    I do not like parts that self adjust. so I'll take a look at that again.
    progress.jpg

    victor

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    forumers,
    I have had a few distractions from this project.
    the most annoying to me was that I broke a pacific I like to run.
    it makes good noises and helps me think I have things well in hand while I work.

    I want it or something running if at all possible while I tackle soldering tiny headlamps to magnet wire.
    crossed eyes and hunched back are common for me. If I get a headlamp working... I will share.

    I have the mikado in this thread back on the rails, it started sounding un-even
    and I blamed the motor, so I swapped it out. it is much the same after the swap-out,
    so now I am blaming the cracked gear carrier. I'll look into that later.
    I am going to need to plan a connector for the headlamp... assuming I do it.

    super glue has worked so far I guess I'll keep with it.

    victor

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    Hi Victor, One thing you may not have yet encountered with this L1 model is that if built as they designed, they have insufficient spacing between the tender and the locomotive. Mine will not run on curves less than 13" radius due to binding between the front tender ladders and detail at the rear of the engine. I'm contemplating a modified drawbar that is lengthened about 3/32nds to fix this so that no detail pieces have to be sacrificed but that will play hell with the close coupled look. You probably are already aware of this.

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    Hi TVRR,
    I was not aware of it....
    I had been looking at how to get the details installed and thought the ladders seemed close.
    I read max m.'s online pdf... If he mentioned that issue, I missed it.

    I have a tendency to re-do problem parts so I suspect you have saved me from that re-work.

    ETA: my memory is the drawbar is a plastic that can be glued with the stuff plastruct sells.
    and the problem is the wire is hard to reform... which often means adding insulated wires from tender to engine.
    thus this advice... solder to the centers of the pick-ups strips that are in the tender.

    In some news on this project, I still do not have the chassis chassis running smooth and even.
    I think I will be cutting or clearing cracked gear carriers.
    I may hunt yet another motor, I have found an Atlas gray/slow-speed motor that I
    think could give better overall performance.

    my next modeling effort on the GHQ kit will be making a headlamp or two.

    and again thanks for the head-up

    victor
    Last edited by victor miranda; 3rd Mar 2019 at 01:11 PM. Reason: forgot to add info about the drawbar

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    Default Drawbar extension

    Victor -

    I am back in the N scale world and saw your post on the Kato Mikado. I am working on a GHQ L-1 conversion right now. You can extend the drawbar without modifying the wipers. Just cut through the drawbar, separate the two pieces, and glue a piece of styrene between them. You only need a little bit of an extension, maybe 1/16 of an inch. The article Max M. did shows the extension.

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    Hi Mike,
    I am glad you are returned to n-scale.
    we agree that 1/16 inch is very little.
    and it is good to hear that there is no need to re-work the drawbar wires.

    I have the memory that you made one of these GHQ thinks a few years back.
    on the assumption that memory is not confused, is this a second unit?

    victor

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    Quote Originally Posted by victor miranda View Post
    Hi Mike,
    I am glad you are returned to n-scale.
    we agree that 1/16 inch is very little.
    and it is good to hear that there is no need to re-work the drawbar wires.

    I have the memory that you made one of these GHQ thinks a few years back.
    on the assumption that memory is not confused, is this a second unit?

    victor
    Great to hear from you Victor, we used to communicate extensively on the old Atlas board. I did make a GHQ L-1 about 10 years ago. Then I sold off a bunch of locomotives to move to HO scale - that was a mistake! I made the move back to N scale last summer, and one of my first tasks that I wanted to do is make another GHQ L-1. I loved that locomotive and it can pull like a stump.

    I also built a PRR I-1 2-10-0 using the GHQ kit. I kept that loco and still have it. I want to make another one someday for my PRR roster.

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    Victor -

    Any ideas on where I might be able to find some spare parts for a Kato Mikado? I am particularly looking for extra siderods and crank pins. Kato has been out of stock of them for years.

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    Hi Mike,
    I have been asked about parts before and I have only spare mikes as the source.
    ( like there is such a thing as a 'spare' kato Mikado. )
    With n-scale the usual source is another loco. they are not cheap or common on the bay.

    crank pins can be made on a lathe or motor tool. the side rods are a bit tougher.
    I'd probably make them from brass sheet.
    at some point you may want more parts and buying another mike may be the easiest path.

    I think when a mike fails or drops to the floor, instead of selling it, the broken parts are kept for 'parts.'

    victor

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    I'm glad this thread is here. I'm starting a GHQ W-3 Conversion on a Kato Mike.
    Karl

    CEO of the Skally Line, an Eastern MN Shortline

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    Quote Originally Posted by victor miranda View Post
    Hi Mike,
    I have been asked about parts before and I have only spare mikes as the source.
    ( like there is such a thing as a 'spare' kato Mikado. )
    With n-scale the usual source is another loco. they are not cheap or common on the bay.

    crank pins can be made on a lathe or motor tool. the side rods are a bit tougher.
    I'd probably make them from brass sheet.
    at some point you may want more parts and buying another mike may be the easiest path.

    I think when a mike fails or drops to the floor, instead of selling it, the broken parts are kept for 'parts.'

    victor
    Thanks Victor for the info. I wish Kato would re-release the Mikado just so I could pick up some parts! In the meantime, I will look around for some donor locos.

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    Victor -

    The main part that I need are extra main drive rods. I have considered whether the part could be fabricated by a company who specializes in small stainless steel metal parts. The extra drive rod is necessary for conversions of Kato Mikados to 2-10-0s or 2-10-2s. Do you happen to know of any etching companies who could replicate the part?

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    hmmmm.

    I've not gone hunting an etcher.

    I suspect I would punch them from brass and then file.
    you are thinking of using two per side for the 2-10-2 conversion?

    stainless would look good as opposed to brass.
    I wonder if nickle-silver is available in sheet?

    victor

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    Quote Originally Posted by victor miranda View Post
    hmmmm.

    I've not gone hunting an etcher.

    I suspect I would punch them from brass and then file.
    you are thinking of using two per side for the 2-10-2 conversion?

    stainless would look good as opposed to brass.
    I wonder if nickle-silver is available in sheet?

    victor
    Yes, you need one additional siderod per side, preferably out of nickle silver. I did my 2-10-0 conversion years ago using this method and it worked quite well. Back then I was able to order the spare siderods from Kato. I am hoping that an etching company might be able to etch a copy of the part for my use.

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