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Thread: Coffee table layout (critique and suggestions welcome)

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by WP&P View Post
    Will the glass top be readily removable for track cleaning and whatnot? So that if you have derailments you can deal with them? If so, then maybe you can tolerate the kink as long as you have equipment that runs reliably.

    6. Once you have a completed bridge with 2" of curved approach sticking out each side, it's time to swap out. Now you get your Dremel or other cutting tool of choice, and begin the surgery. Cut through the rails at just the right locations, and pry out the existing approach tracks and bridge. Depending on the thickness of your new flex track plus sheet styrene sandwich, you might need to remove some of the underlying roadbed too, but if you used the ME Bridge Flex then, because its ties are not as tall, you might not have that much height difference. An alternative would be to pry up the existing track and insert a shim. At any rate, you want to get rail joiners loaded onto either the new or the existing rails, so that you can just drop the new bridge curve in place, then slide the rail joiners a quarter of an inch, and be good to go.
    Any advice on how to precisely measure the "differential" (for lack of a better word) on where to cut the old track in order to account for the curve? Obviously, the outside rail joiner will be farther back than the inside. SHould I account for that in the tracing of the existing track? The cut needs to be perfect or else there will be a gap in the joiner between the old track and new bridge piece.

  2. #22
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    I would fabricate the new curved track segment (make your template, glue the ties down to a sheet styrene form/spine) first, and then when this is done, use it to mark the locations on the rails where you need to cut. That is why my description called for getting an initial template that extends 3 or 4 inches past each end of the bridge, while the new track only comes out about 2 inches.

    As a practical matter, I would even do the cuts in two stages: lay the new track over the old, mark one end, and cut that end. Remove enough of the approach track as necessary so that you can slide the rail joiners on and attach the new track to this end. The new track will still be lapping over the old track on the other end. Be sure to slide the new track up to a snug fit in those joiners, then mark the other end where it is overlapping. Cut and remove that other end, and the slop in your cut (or the thickness of your blade) may end up being just enough for the amount of play you want in a rail joint.

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  4. #23
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    Put the glass on and lowered the table last night. It is “done” for now while I contemplate what to do about the bridge. All in all after 18 months I am very happy with how it came out.

    https://imgur.com/a/ivDToy7

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  6. #24
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    That is really sharp! Both Kathy and I are impressed. Kathy asks, "Where does he plug it in? "
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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    Wow, the curved glass on top makes it look very sharp. Well done.

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    Gordon - with a power tap and an extension cord. One plug is the power pack and the other is the WS Just Plug hub. Pic here https://imgur.com/a/5fE8TSR

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  10. #27
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  12. #28
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    Someone on R/modeltrains suggested i dremel the edges of the fascia to make the edges smoother and crisper. The fascia is just made of balsa and bass wood though. Do you think it can withstand a dremel?

  13. #29
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    No, I don't think so. Even on low speed I think a Dremel can cause damage in a hurry. One of the most difficult facets of "art" is knowing when to stop. It is beautiful.

    Now all you need is a kitten - shedding fur and curious paws.....
    Cheers!
    Gordon
    Rheinland Bayern Bahn
    http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthr...4-x-9-5-layout

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